Replace Recoil Spring on 1911?

[WellArmedLiberal]

I bought a Springer GI 1911 last fall and have put a few hundred rounds through it. I like it quite a bit, and have no complaints. I usually keep my weapons stock only where possible and don't customize. Lately though I've been shooting smaller, tighter pistolas and while the Springer performs pretty well, it seems kinda floppy sometimes, like I can pretty clearly see that slide slingshot back and forth in slow-mo.

So here's my question: I keep her clean, so next time I'm field stripping , can't I just pop a better recoil spring in there? I know folks do like a something-pound spring after so-many rounds...so maintenance wise, probably not necessary with number of rounds so far, but if it's easy and cheap, why not? Any advice on how many pounds, if so? I don't think this is the start of a 1911 customizing jag...

[PAhunter]

Here is a snip from http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/r...ty_secrets.htm


Recoil Spring
The correct recoil spring poundage is important to the reliability of your pistol. Too light a spring will batter the pistol and weaken the chambering process; too heavy a spring will result in failures to extract and eject, or in "stovepipe" stoppages. A too-heavy spring is also rough on the extractor. A too-quick closing of the slide will force the extractor over the rim of the cartridge, rather than allowing the cartridge to move up under the extractor in a controlled feed. It also has the effect of battering the slide stop unduly. The stock recoil spring in a standard 1911 is rated at 16 pounds. Moving up one notch to 18 ½ pounds will be about right for most pistols shooting hardball and other full-power defense ammo. Anything heavier is too much. Be sure to test the new recoil spring by shooting the pistol one-handed and loosely. It should function positively. If not, go back to the 16-pound spring.

An extra-power recoil spring also aids in preventing the slide from opening too soon. You may have seen "skid marks" on primers, caused by the firing pin still being extended against the primer when the slide unlocks. Eventually, this could break the firing pin. The use of a heavier recoil spring often cures this problem.


This may be the info your looking for.
Good shooting, enjoy your Springfield.

Jack

[Lycanthrope]

Go back to a 16lb Wolff spring.

[Seventy4Blazer]

Go back to a 16lb Wolff spring.

why?
ten char

[Lycanthrope]

why?
ten char

Because:

(A) The 16lb is stock.
(B) Wolff springs rarely need clipped.

Using an "extra power" spring sounds like a good idea, but can batter the gun going into battery.

In reality, all you need is enough resistance to keep the frame from being battered on the return stroke and having enough pressure to chamber the next round.

Now....most people think this is just the function of the recoil spring...it is not.

There are several ways to slow down slide velocity to the rear without touching the recoil spring....such as...using a heavier mainspring and using a squared firing pin stop. Why do this? Because many times people can really benefit from a spring that closes the slide soft and keeps the sights aligned. A heavy spring can cause the muzzle to dip and wobble coming back into battery.....too light can leave your muzzle up in the air unless your grip accomodates that.

So..you could, for instance, use a squared firing pin stop and a lighter recoil spring or mainspring combo and still not have the gun being battered while having the recoil of the gun feeling more consistent.

It can take some experimentation.

But, if he wants faster slide movement to the eye, a 16lb Wolf variable will be fine...without any adverse effects. Most people ony notice slow forward movement....but overall slide speed is about the same no matter what springs you use....heavy springs close faster....lighter springs open faster. I have yet to see anyone outrun even a 9lb recoil spring on a 1911. At least not while actually aiming.

Lycanlongerthantencharactersthrope

[Jailkeeper]

Lycanonvacationthrope, I have a question (again)...

How do I find out what spring the manufacturer used when the pistol was built?

How do I know if the spring in my Wilson is the same as the spring in my Kimber? I recall my dad telling me the spring in the Wilson was heavier, but never asked him how he knew.

Ok, go back to enjoying your vacation.

[Lycanthrope]

Lycanonvacationthrope, I have a question (again)...

How do I find out what spring the manufacturer used when the pistol was built?

How do I know if the spring in my Wilson is the same as the spring in my Kimber? I recall my dad telling me the spring in the Wilson was heavier, but never asked him how he knew.

Ok, go back to enjoying your vacation.

You pretty much have to call and ask, but 16lb is the standard for the 5" 1911.......I don't know anyone who doesn't use a 16 or 18 with 16 preferred by the wide majority.

Now...tighter 1911s....like Kimbers tend to get away with less because they are so tight...since the friction bleeds off slide speed. That is why Kimbers tend to stovepipe a lot during break in...they act like a gun with too heavy a recoil spring. It makes it worse if the extractor is tight....the case rim being forced under the extractor hook can also stall the slide on the return stroke.

There are some really smooth and tight 1911's out there and with a properly set up extractor and ejector you are looking to dump brass about 6 feet from you.

Or you an use a buff and use anything from 16lbs to lighter. And yes, buffed guns can run 100% but that's another long post....and I have beer to drink.

Lycantakingabreakthrope

[Exbiker]

Use the stock spring weight. If you`re not sure call springer with your serial number.

[Jailkeeper]

Use the stock spring weight. If you`re not sure call springer with your serial number.

Not sure I agree with you Exbiker. Manufacturers like SA, Glock, et al build their pistols with the AVERAGE USER in mind. That does not mean we can not "fine tune" our pistols.

Always using stock parts negates the experience & expertise of people like Lycanthrope and a host of others on this forum.

I had a custom trigger installed on my Ruger MKII. I've changed sights and made other modifications to various handguns I own. I have never been disappointed.

I own 4 Glocks, 3 of them are stock. On the other hand I have spent a lot of time & money making modifications to my G31. It will never be my daily carry gun, but it's a lot of fun at the range.

Always replacing stock parts with stock parts is to never move forward; to never improve.

I prefer to learn from people like Lycanthrope, and make improvements as I can.

[Exbiker]

Always replacing stock parts with stock parts is to never move forward; to never improve.

I prefer to learn from people like Lycanthrope, and make improvements as I can.

.

This guy isn`t building a race gun and I am under the impression he`s happy with it`s performance.
I didn`t read responses before so I id now and I see Lycanthrope also suggested the stock weight.
Many times replacing stock spec parts with different spec parts created other issues or requires other part changes to get the benefit.