Need to permanently attach brake...

[vladtepes]

OK... so I was originally going to fill out another tax stamp for my Saiga 12.. to cut it down to 14in... but I am also going to add a muzzle device to it... so I got to doing some math and realized that with any of the bigger muzzle devices out there I am going to be right at 18in anyway.... so instead of blowing money on a stamp and waiting months for approval.. I should just permanently attach the brake by pinning it (ETA, and welding over the pin).. I have done a TON of work on Saigas... but a welder I am not... any advice on how to deal with this... or a competent smith that can handle this at a reasonable cost.. I feel that I could probably handle stripping the gun down to nothing.. cutting and threading the barrel.. but I can not pin or weld it... I am in the snyder county area...

[Delkal]

It has to be attached permanently. You can not just put a pin in it.

It must be welded or silver soldered on.

[vladtepes]

It has to be attached permanently. You can not just put a pin in it.

It must be welded or silver soldered on.

thats why I need someone with a welder and the skill to weld over the pin... I lack the skills to do it..

[harold63]

thats why I need someone with a welder and the skill to weld over the pin... I lack the skills to do it..

Some of the best welders work in body shops. I use a low voltage mig W/O gas at my home and it will do anything needed on a gun...steel or AL. These welders are common in body shops along with tig welders and both will work. Just a thought.

[justsayno]

siver solder, is not that hard. try a few joints. its easy.

[Shisno]

I just sent my rifle off to the gunsmith. I'm having two holes drilled and tapped into my receiver, and having my permanent muzzle extension removed while permanently attaching a flash hider. All that is a total of $120 for me. I can't remember how much it is just to permanently attach the flash hider but it was in the area of $50. And the gunsmith I'm using is out of Gander Mountain.

[groove]

I have called, faxed, send snail mail letters to BATFE asking for clarification of how extensions need to be afixed to a barrel. 12 tries later and still nothing back from them. my question stems from some short barreled ar's that had flash suppressors/extensions threaded then epoxied on, making them a legal rifle length. I was a personal witness to these being inspected by an BATF agent and passed the inspection. so my question was about thompson center encore and contender barrels and if chemical welds, from permanent locktite to superglue to jb weld and etc, were legal to attach barrel extensions or muzzlebrakes. so, please if anyone has any better luck getting a direct answer from BATF send me a copy of their response or answer. thanks jim

[GunLawyer001]

the only problem you're going to run into, is that you want a simple solution. the horn system operates by grounding the control side of the relay to activate the horns. the braking system operates by applying power to the rear lamps. if you just attach the horn wire to the brake wire, you're not going to accomplish anything but back feeding voltage or ground to a circuit that doesn't need said voltage or ground.

I reported this robo-user, but just as an FYI, they appear to be using some sort of automated system that latches onto a key word (in this case, "brake"), and finds some text from another website that appears to be related. This post came from here, posted 2 months ago:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5115920AADDI3c

the prank would go so much better if you could do it without the help of strangers from the internet.

find the schematics to the vehicle, i believe autozone might be able to print something off.

the only problem you're going to run into, is that you want a simple solution. the horn system operates by grounding the control side of the relay to activate the horns. the braking system operates by applying power to the rear lamps. if you just attach the horn wire to the brake wire, you're not going to accomplish anything but back feeding voltage or ground to a circuit that doesn't need said voltage or ground.

you have to run a length of wire from the brake switch and splice it directly to the horn wire. there's two wires from your brake switch, one is always hot, the other is switched hot, with the brakes pressed. that switched wire is your target wire. horn wire is pretty easy, most only have one wire going to them and they are chassis grounded.

i need to emphasize this is a prank! So help me God, if you cut or tear up ANY of his wiring, you have just permanently affected his vehicle, and that, would NOT be cool in any way!!

back probe the wire into the connector, either jam the wire in there, or use a paperclip and twist the wire around it.

but be careful. when this wire is activated, it has 12 volts going through it. make sure it is NOT touching anything metal!!!
Source(s):
professional technician since 2002

[USMC3531]

The easiest way is to wire a trailer plug to a set of horns, then bolt the horns to a large magnet. just plug it in and stick it to the frame

[Noah_Zark]

the only problem you're going to run into, is that you want a simple solution. the horn system operates by grounding the control side of the relay to activate the horns. the braking system operates by applying power to the rear lamps. if you just attach the horn wire to the brake wire, you're not going to accomplish anything but back feeding voltage or ground to a circuit that doesn't need said voltage or ground.

Yes, and while that may be true, all your base are belong to us, sucka.

He's gone for good.

Noah