Springfield Armory .45 Loaded Disassembly Problem

[Jim In California]

I just bought a Springfield Loaded 1911 and before I go shoot, I want to make sure I can take it down properly, clean it and reassemble it. I've got the owner's manual, and I'm stuck practically before I've gotten started. I am able to use the little Allen wrench that is provided to remove the full length guide rod. The next step tells me to move the slide back about 1/2 inch and depress the recoil spring plug with my thumb. The first thing that seems wrong is that the when I pull the slide back 1/2 inch (or a full inch for that matter), the spring plug does not protrude, and is flush with the end of the slide, thus there is nothing for me to push or depress. The next step is that I should point the muzzle away from me and rotate the barrel bushing clockwise. I assume that the failure to depress the spring plug is preventing me from being able to rotate the barrel bushing. Anyway, this is pretty frustrating, and I'd be most appreciative for any useful advice I can get. Thanks folks.

[bert304]

The part where the recoil rod came out of should be raised slightly right in the center. That is where you push in. It will be real stiff at first. once you can push in on that you should be able to turn the bushing. put a pic of the front of the firearm.

[Average Baer]

Poor guy, you got a manual for a gun with GI GR. You have a FLGR and so those instructions are confusticating.

Just take the gun down, using the slide stop. Draw the slide back, until the rear of the slide stop aligns with the take-down notch. Press the bbl link pin, from the right side of the frame and remove the slide stop from the left side of the pistol. The slide will shoot forward, so make sure you capture it with your left hand when doing this.

The other way (after removing the length of the FLGR with the hex screw) is to depress the spring plug, turn the bushing to 9:30 o'clock, clockwise. (The two piece FLGR configuration is designed to allow for the same takedown procedure as the GI set-up, once the hex-affixed section is removed.) The plug and spring otta come shooting out after that.

Good luck.

[synergy]

After you've removed the front portion of the guide rod...this is how I do it.

Edit: Average Baer taught me something today, rotating the bushing with the slide closed may wear the bbl/bushing fit more than need be. So while this method "works", it looks like it's not the proper way of doing things.
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Engage the thumb safety, this keeps the slide from moving on you.
Take a flat tool (magazine floor-plate works well) and push the plug (which engages the bushing) down fully...while it's being held down, rotate the bushing clockwise about 20 degrees.

If you have a tight bushing, you can use bushing wrench, just hold some down pressure so the plug doesn't go flying.

The bushing is now holding the plug under tension...remove the magazine/ "flat tool your holding pressure with", and replace it with your thumb over the spring and plug....rotate the bushing the rest of the way until it clears.
Ease out the plug, and rip out the spring.
Disengage the thumb safety, and draw the slide back to align the slide stop with the cut on the slide.
Push the slide stop out.
Remove the slide off of the frame.
Remove the guide rod piece floating around.
Rotate the bushing counter-clockwise until it lifts out.
Remove the barrel.


You are now, field stripped.

[Jim In California]

Thanks Bert. On my gun, the part where the recoil guide came out of is a hole. if I pull the slide back all the way, I can see the other part of the guide (the threaded end that the other part was removed from), but it is way too low in the hole for me to touch, and I don't think that you are really referring to that anyway. I've tried to attach two pictures. One shows what I mean when i say that there doesn't appear to be anything to push in, and the other is a side view that is intended to illustrate what i mean by being flush to the side.

[bert304]

For pictures you have to up load them to the Image hosting area. Look next to the User CP. What I am about to tell you could be dangerous. Make sure the firearm is unloaded do it twice and remove the magazine. If you look at the bushing and do you see the curved part just below the barrel? The bushing goes around the barrel and has a small up side down U shape in it. That is where the recoil spring plug is located. You might not be able to see it very well with the bushing in the firearm. Push with your thumb on the spot in the upside down U of the bushing and you should feel it move in. When you feel it pushed in you should be able to turn the bushing a little to lock the plug rearward.

[Average Baer]

I recommed never turning the bushing on a 1911 with the slide fully forward.

[bert304]

I recommed never turning the bushing on a 1911 with the slide fully forward.

How come? What do you think it will do? That's how you field strip a 1911 at least thats how I was told how to do it.

[Jim In California]

Synergy, Bert and Baer: Success. The key was using the bottom of the magazine to depress the plug and seeing how to make it not interfere with the bushing when I needed to turn it. Thanks very much gentlemen. I knew I'd come to the right place.

[Average Baer]

Well done, Jim.

In the future, in order to avoid degrading your bbl/bushing fit, stick a spent cartridge between the breech and bbl hood. It will keep the slide open about a half inch, exposing 1/2" of bbl, beyond the bushing and prevent unnecessary wear of your bbl/bushing fit. Bear in mind that the bbl/bushing fit is the single-most important interface, in terms of accuracy. Protect it.