Problem Ruger GP100

**jbaisch** · April 29th, 2013, 10:58 PM

You will have to forgive my terms as I am pretty new to revolvers and still trying to get signed up for my basic handgun course.

I have a GP100 that was new and I have put about 300 rounds through it. I recently found that when the cylinder is in one position, pushing the button to eject the cylinder will not allow it to eject or it will be very difficult. This only occurs on the one position. If the revolver is cycled via trigger or hammer to the next position it will then eject the cylinder fine and will operate correctly until we get back to the first cylinder.

I thought it was a lubrication problem initially so I lubricated all moving parts - the crane, the release button, the back of the cylinder area, the little metal piece that slides up and stops the cylinder rotation (I think that's what it does?).

I suspect that maybe the notch in the exterior of the cylinder that the "metal piece" mentioned above slides into is deeper at that point so it doesn't easily eject.

Thoughts? Anyone have something like this on a revolver? Is this something to take back to Ruger?

Thanks for your assistance in advance. Please feel free to improve my education of terms.

**Breadman03** · April 29th, 2013, 11:24 PM

The GP100 owners manual should help you with the terminology.

I don't have an answer for your issue, but I would also try a good cleaning.

**nachogrande** · April 30th, 2013, 12:25 AM

start with the small easy fix stuff first. is it stainless? if not be careful not to damage the bluing. a thorough cleaning/polishing ending with turtle wax chrome/stainless/rust remover will leave it as new. be sure to get both front & back of the cylinder & top strap to completely remove any accumulated lead. make sure to totally remove the polish and re-oil. give it a good eyeballing for any rough spots, cracks, the notches in the cylinder for correct/smooth and = sized/shaped holes. the hammer will advance the cylinder with no problem when you hit that bad spot huh? could be several things, but maybe just a tiny high spot that wasn't polished out completely when mfg'd. to keep guns competitively priced nowadays mfgr's can't afford to pay exp'd smiths to hand tune guns and adjust timing etc. they rely on the improved cnc machining for exact tolerances, and sometimes a few slip by. imo there is nothing like a well timed/tuned and slicked up revolver. a good competent smith can turn a ruger into a thing of beauty. Jack Wiegand worked a redhawk and 2 sp101's for me back in the 80's. not sure if he is still taking on work since becoming the gunsmith editor for guns and ammo. cylinder & slide do great work but are expensive and you could spend more on the srvc than the cost of the gun. if you have time and elbow grease you can try polishing yourself, but go slow and not too coarse of a paste with a toothbrush. NO FILES OR EMERY CLOTH!

**Xringshooter** · April 30th, 2013, 08:47 AM

You can also take your question here: www.rugerforum.com and post it in the Rugersmithing or Revolver sections. That forum probably has the best collection of Ruger knowledge around.

**harold63** · April 30th, 2013, 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by jbaisch

This only occurs on the one position.
Thoughts?

Check the cylinder ratchet to see if one of the teeth is bent out or just not cut correctly. It will not take much to hang the cylinder up, and it hanging on one bore sounds like it is rotated just at a point where it catches the breech face just right.

**jbaisch** · May 16th, 2013, 10:39 PM

Tried looking at it more closely. Didn't see anything noticable but that could be because i am not very knowledgable. Does anyone know of a gunsmith near murrysville where i could take it for them to take a look?

I'm going to try on the ruger forums as well.

**fritz1919** · May 18th, 2013, 10:11 PM

jb

Interesting symptom. I own the same revolver. It has been a workhorse and the accuracy for a 4" is more than acceptable to me.

You say you are new to the game. May I suggest that you allow a fellow shooter just look at it. Someone you trust will not drop your new piece or start buggering away with a screwdriver. Maybe an old timer where you shoot. Sometimes just another set of eyes can solve the problem.

Have you called Ruger?

While there is always a "gunsmith" to be found, I always wince at the prospect of handing over my firearms. I've only done that twice in over four decades of shooting.

I've had to speak to Ruger on occasion over the years and have always had a good response. I would think that they would:

1. Troubleshoot it over the phone. or
2. Send you a prepaid mailer to send the revolver back to them. or
3 Pick up the fee for a visit to a Ruger authorized gunsmith.

Dude, I got mine five years and paid good money. I'm sure you did the same. Give Ruger a call. Put it on them to get your piece running and you should not be ONE penny out of pocket and tell the person that you give it to "you want it back looking as new as you gave it to them"

I feel for you man. Get that baby runnin. You'll love it!

fritz
(158 grain cast SWC over 4.4 grains of Red Dot - BINGO)

**jbaisch** · May 19th, 2013, 08:30 PM

Thanks for the thought. I think i found the problem but will be calling ruger to talk about it. It appears the cylinder in that spot is touching the barrel (forcing cone?) and there is extra friction when trying to open it.