Help me understand scope terms

[Optikalillushun]

I hope this isnt a redunant question but i am a total newbie to scopes, i always used iron sights but even if i dont actually get one id like to know the lingo better.

My only experience with scopes is on my Marlin 795 that has a cheap rim fire scope from dicks (bought the rifle there, as well as the scope and mount a few years ago before the boycott). Its a Gamo 22 special 4x32 which i assume is crap but for what i do its sufficent on my 22.

What does the 4x32 mean? I also seen scopes with 2-7x32, etc. Also what is a long eye relief? I assume its for when a scope is mounted further forward but why is it needed? Also what is a scout scope? Why do some scopes have real big and long glass and some are real skinny all the way through?

I tried to google this stuff but i dont know what im lookin for. Thanks.

[Tomcat088]

I hope this isnt a redunant question but i am a total newbie to scopes, i always used iron sights but even if i dont actually get one id like to know the lingo better.

My only experience with scopes is on my Marlin 795 that has a cheap rim fire scope from dicks (bought the rifle there, as well as the scope and mount a few years ago before the boycott). Its a Gamo 22 special 4x32 which i assume is crap but for what i do its sufficent on my 22.

What does the 4x32 mean? I also seen scopes with 2-7x32, etc. Also what is a long eye relief? I assume its for when a scope is mounted further forward but why is it needed? Also what is a scout scope? Why do some scopes have real big and long glass and some are real skinny all the way through?

I tried to google this stuff but i dont know what im lookin for. Thanks.

Oh no, this is a very good question, especially for someone that isn't used to scopes. I'll gladly help you out.

The numbers that you see on the left side of the X are the magnification numbers. So when you see a scope that is 4x32. That means that it is a 4x scope, and the object viewed through the scope will be roughly 4x the size that you'd see with the naked eye. When you see more than one number there, it means that the scope is a variable power scope, and you can change the magnification. So the scope that you listed as 2-7x32 would mean that you can go form 2x, all the way to 7x. So the image that you see through the scope will be from 2 times the original size with the naked eye, all the way up to 7 times the original size with the naked eye. So that's what the numbers on the left side of the X mean.

The numbers that are on the right side of the X are a measurement of the "objective lens" in millimeters. The objective lens is the last lens that is at the very far end of the scope that is towards the muzzle side. So your example that has a 4x32 scope, the objective lens is 32mm. You will hear lots of talk about how a larger objective lens gathers more light, and to an extent, that's true. The truth though is that it's complicated and also dependent upon the exit pupil and how much light it allows to pass through the scope. What is important about the objective size is that the larger the objective lens, the more resolution the scope will have, IF all other things are equal. Resolution is the ability to make out smaller details of objects. Keep in mind that coatings, glass quality, and other things play a part in resolution as well. If you want the best low light performance, a larger objective lens, with a large exit pupil, good glass coatings, etc. are the way to go. Keep in mind that objective size isn't the end all be all. A cheap scope with a 50mm objective, may still be outperformed by a more expensive scope with better glass and coatings that only has a 40mm objective. So it's kind of a sliding scale of sorts.

Long eye relief scopes are just that, long eye relief. Eye relief is the distance that you can keep your eye away from the scope, and still have the scope not have any shadows around the edges, and is completely clear. This can be helpful for hard recoiling rifles, so that you don't get hit in the face and have a little room for margin of error in how you're holding the scope. "Scout scopes" have very long eye relief. Lots of times scout scopes are used because you can't have them mounted directly over the action because of how it's built, or because the eye relief can come in handy for the situations that the scope will be used in, so that you don't have to have precise eye placement. You can think dangerous game, quick moving targets that are closer more than they are farther, etc. The bigger glass is usually higher magnification gathering more light, while the ones that look slender all the way through are the lower power magnification scopes.

I hope this helps you with some of the basics. If I haven't explained something well, and you have more questions, or need more info. Please feel free to ask more questions. There are no stupid questions, and you've asked some very good and legitimate questions so far. Just remember that scopes are all about what the intended use of the rifle is.

[ar15jules]

Tomcat summed it up! I have nothing to add.
Jules

[harold63]

If I haven't explained something well,

Tomcat summed it up! I have nothing to add.
Jules

He forgot to tell him what a POS scope is used for: door stop, tire chok, paper weight, nic nak in man cave, etc.

[Optikalillushun]

Thanks, that clears a lot of things up enough to give me a grasp on the concepts of scopes.

Now, as a side question...i have a marlin 336 that i might want to add a scope onto. I seen at Dunhams they have the scope mounts and rings...so if i were to get a scope what would be a good choice for say shooting at 100-150 yards? I wouldnt use it all the time so would taking it off and putting it back on require resighting if none of the adjustments were touched?

[harold63]

Thanks, that clears a lot of things up enough to give me a grasp on the concepts of scopes.

Now, as a side question...i have a marlin 336 that i might want to add a scope onto. I seen at Dunhams they have the scope mounts and rings...so if i were to get a scope what would be a good choice for say shooting at 100-150 yards? I wouldnt use it all the time so would taking it off and putting it back on require resighting if none of the adjustments were touched?

I always recommend a Centerpoint from WM just because of the value and the open turrets. It has plenty of MOA adjustment (simply means you can adjust it for a fair amount of bullet drop or windage), and with a 30-30, that won't be an issue, anyway. They have a 4-16X50 (4 power through 16 power with a 50 mm lens) for $69 and WM's return policy if you aren't happy with it. There are a few tidbits that come with it, as well, but I don't want to bore you when you can go right to CP's website. As I say to other people, you can always sell this scope and get at least half your money back should you decide to upgrade once you get accustomed to using it. It lets in a good amount of light and has very clear glass. It is a very good bargain for a scope and could go for more $$$, IMO. Another neat thing with this scope is it comes with everything you need to mount it except the base plates for the rifle, which WM also sells. I have one on my 30-30 (I actually have a few of them) and with Hornaday ammo, soda cans at 200 yds are no problem.

If you were not a casual shooter, I'd tell you to go a different route, but for what you are talking about, this scope will do everything you want, and more.

[dk99358]

Depending on the mounting system (and you can drop some pretty big $$ on them) you may need to recheck your zero if you remove/replace the scope. I've read the Weavers usually come back pretty close even though they're not really designed with that in mind. All you can do is try and see what happens. It might come back close enough, it might not.

No way would I stick a 4-16X50 scope on a sweet handling woods carbine like a Marlin 336. Something like 2.5 or 4X will be much less obtrusive and not change the handling characteristics of the rifle. Plus provide plenty of power for the distances you are talking. I run both 4x and 6X on several rifles (including a 270 Win), they work fine out to 300 yds and more. Weaver if money is tight, Leupold if it's not.

Dale

[harold63]

I wouldnt use it all the time so would taking it off and putting it back on require resighting if none of the adjustments were touched?

In some cases, you will, depending on the mounts and base. There are so many screws to torque, and there always seems to be more pressure on one mount than the other. Taking a scope off lets everything "unmold", so to speak, and when reinstalling, that untwisting of everything just doesn't go back exactly like it came off. There are mounts and bases that negate all of this and will allow you to remove and reinstall with the same zero, but that stuff isn't cheap, and usually requires an inch pound torque wrench. It's always best to test your zero and adjust after removing and reinstalling a scope from the same rifle and mount.

[harold63]

Depending on the mounting system (and you can drop some pretty big $$ on them) you may need to recheck your zero if you remove/replace the scope. I've read the Weavers usually come back pretty close even though they're not really designed with that in mind. All you can do is try and see what happens. It might come back close enough, it might not.

We musta posted at the same time, otherwise, I would have kept eating my waffles.

[harold63]

He forgot to tell him what a POS scope is used for: door stop, tire chok, paper weight, nic nak in man cave, etc.

...and carry handle. WTG Noah.