Help me understand scope terms

[Manxdriver]

Ok, none of you guys posted the MOST important rule about scopes so I'll step in here and post it.
NEVER, EVER, mount a scope on an AR-type rifle that doesn't have the word "tactical" on the box it comes in. If it comes in a plastic bag, it should have a sticker that reads "Tactical use only" on the scope.



I'm kidding! I make joke!! Good info that you guys have provided to a great question!

[Optikalillushun]

Sounds good guys, thanks. Is there a general guideline to follow for choosing a scope based on distance? Like said power scope is suited for xxx distance? Now i have an understanding of the concept i can search and look at different scopes and research more in depth.

[DHR27PA]

Oh no, this is a very good question, especially for someone that isn't used to scopes. I'll gladly help you out.

The numbers that you see on the left side of the X are the magnification numbers. So when you see a scope that is 4x32. That means that it is a 4x scope, and the object viewed through the scope will be roughly 4x the size that you'd see with the naked eye. When you see more than one number there, it means that the scope is a variable power scope, and you can change the magnification. So the scope that you listed as 2-7x32 would mean that you can go form 2x, all the way to 7x. So the image that you see through the scope will be from 2 times the original size with the naked eye, all the way up to 7 times the original size with the naked eye. So that's what the numbers on the left side of the X mean.

The numbers that are on the right side of the X are a measurement of the "objective lens" in millimeters. The objective lens is the last lens that is at the very far end of the scope that is towards the muzzle side. So your example that has a 4x32 scope, the objective lens is 32mm. You will hear lots of talk about how a larger objective lens gathers more light, and to an extent, that's true. The truth though is that it's complicated and also dependent upon the exit pupil and how much light it allows to pass through the scope. What is important about the objective size is that the larger the objective lens, the more resolution the scope will have, IF all other things are equal. Resolution is the ability to make out smaller details of objects. Keep in mind that coatings, glass quality, and other things play a part in resolution as well. If you want the best low light performance, a larger objective lens, with a large exit pupil, good glass coatings, etc. are the way to go. Keep in mind that objective size isn't the end all be all. A cheap scope with a 50mm objective, may still be outperformed by a more expensive scope with better glass and coatings that only has a 40mm objective. So it's kind of a sliding scale of sorts.

Long eye relief scopes are just that, long eye relief. Eye relief is the distance that you can keep your eye away from the scope, and still have the scope not have any shadows around the edges, and is completely clear. This can be helpful for hard recoiling rifles, so that you don't get hit in the face and have a little room for margin of error in how you're holding the scope. "Scout scopes" have very long eye relief. Lots of times scout scopes are used because you can't have them mounted directly over the action because of how it's built, or because the eye relief can come in handy for the situations that the scope will be used in, so that you don't have to have precise eye placement. You can think dangerous game, quick moving targets that are closer more than they are farther, etc. The bigger glass is usually higher magnification gathering more light, while the ones that look slender all the way through are the lower power magnification scopes.

I hope this helps you with some of the basics. If I haven't explained something well, and you have more questions, or need more info. Please feel free to ask more questions. There are no stupid questions, and you've asked some very good and legitimate questions so far. Just remember that scopes are all about what the intended use of the rifle is.

This was very helpful. Thanks

[dk99358]

Selecting a scope is more than just a distance/power thing. Remember you have to carry it and be able to use it. Would you want to try and find a running whitetail in the woods with an 14 power scope? That scope has a field of view @ 100yds of roughly 8 feet. At 25 yds, you have a 2 foot circle to find your deer in.

Distance, target size, lens coatings, scope size, rifle size and a whole bunch of other factors may make one scope suitable and another one not so good.

For big game hunting with your Marlin, keep it small, mount it close to the barrel/action, and figure the top end power at 7x or less. Something like a straight 4X, or a variable 1.75-6, 2-7 or 1.5-5 will do everything you need.

Dale

[harold63]

Selecting a scope is more than just a distance/power thing. Remember you have to carry it and be able to use it. Would you want to try and find a running whitetail in the woods with an 14 power scope? That scope has a field of view @ 100yds of roughly 8 feet. At 25 yds, you have a 2 foot circle to find your deer in.

Distance, target size, lens coatings, scope size, rifle size and a whole bunch of other factors may make one scope suitable and another one not so good.

For big game hunting with your Marlin, keep it small, mount it close to the barrel/action, and figure the top end power at 7x or less. Something like a straight 4X, or a variable 1.75-6, 2-7 or 1.5-5 will do everything you need.

Dale

I use binocs to find my quarry. When I find it, I take my rifle off my shoulder. I use 16X beyond 150 yds to get my food up close and personal so I get a better shot. I'm not a head hunter, and I don't want any of my meat torn up. Someone suggested earlier to not ruin the looks of a lever gun with a big scope. I find that interesting since animals don't care how the gun looks; only whether or not their nemesis can use it. Just my thoughts on the matter...

[Qtrborecrazy]

Opti one other way you can go is with a straight power of 4x or 6x on your 336. Less moving parts and lighter. Go to a good shop and ask to look thru them all. I had the guys at Gander show me a conquest and accupoint side by side. I liked the accupoint better, just as clear and bright as the conquest and lighter. Made in the USA no chinese please for me.

[dk99358]

That was me that made the comment about big scopes on a Marlin lever. It's not the looks but the handling and weight that are issues. A 50mm objective has almost 2.5 times the lens area to snag on a branch than does a 32 mm objective on a smaller scope. Plus, you are toting a lot more weight, that slows down your swing and it mounts higher so the balance changes. A big scope takes at least high rings, so you don't get as good a cheek weld. Finally, 4x or so will easily do 200 yd shots, the extra power on a 4-16 is simply wasted in this case. The longest shot I ever made on game was about 350 yds, I was using a Weaver 4X on my 270. I've made several others over 250.

I admit there are situations where that extra power is useful but I don't think the OP's Marlin is one.

Dale

[ItchyTick]

For most applications an adjustable 3-9x scope (32-40mm objective) will meet virtually all of your needs.

You will probably find this scope on 75% of hunting rifles.

[harold63]

I admit there are situations where that extra power is useful but I don't think the OP's Marlin is one.

Dale

Definitely not 350 with that gun. I suppose there are draw backs to having more power, especially if shooting when it is in the heat of the day or the sun is setting, or eye fatigue, even, but I still want to see the temple, clearly. Just a matter of personal preference.

[caferacer]

Oh no, this is a very good question, especially for someone that isn't used to scopes. I'll gladly help you out.

The numbers that you see on the left side of the X are the magnification numbers. So when you see a scope that is 4x32. That means that it is a 4x scope, and the object viewed through the scope will be roughly 4x the size that you'd see with the naked eye. When you see more than one number there, it means that the scope is a variable power scope, and you can change the magnification. So the scope that you listed as 2-7x32 would mean that you can go form 2x, all the way to 7x. So the image that you see through the scope will be from 2 times the original size with the naked eye, all the way up to 7 times the original size with the naked eye. So that's what the numbers on the left side of the X mean.

The numbers that are on the right side of the X are a measurement of the "objective lens" in millimeters. The objective lens is the last lens that is at the very far end of the scope that is towards the muzzle side. So your example that has a 4x32 scope, the objective lens is 32mm. You will hear lots of talk about how a larger objective lens gathers more light, and to an extent, that's true. The truth though is that it's complicated and also dependent upon the exit pupil and how much light it allows to pass through the scope. What is important about the objective size is that the larger the objective lens, the more resolution the scope will have, IF all other things are equal. Resolution is the ability to make out smaller details of objects. Keep in mind that coatings, glass quality, and other things play a part in resolution as well. If you want the best low light performance, a larger objective lens, with a large exit pupil, good glass coatings, etc. are the way to go. Keep in mind that objective size isn't the end all be all. A cheap scope with a 50mm objective, may still be outperformed by a more expensive scope with better glass and coatings that only has a 40mm objective. So it's kind of a sliding scale of sorts.

Long eye relief scopes are just that, long eye relief. Eye relief is the distance that you can keep your eye away from the scope, and still have the scope not have any shadows around the edges, and is completely clear. This can be helpful for hard recoiling rifles, so that you don't get hit in the face and have a little room for margin of error in how you're holding the scope. "Scout scopes" have very long eye relief. Lots of times scout scopes are used because you can't have them mounted directly over the action because of how it's built, or because the eye relief can come in handy for the situations that the scope will be used in, so that you don't have to have precise eye placement. You can think dangerous game, quick moving targets that are closer more than they are farther, etc. The bigger glass is usually higher magnification gathering more light, while the ones that look slender all the way through are the lower power magnification scopes.

I hope this helps you with some of the basics. If I haven't explained something well, and you have more questions, or need more info. Please feel free to ask more questions. There are no stupid questions, and you've asked some very good and legitimate questions so far. Just remember that scopes are all about what the intended use of the rifle is.

I believe this is the best explanation of how scopes work, and the terminology used, that I have ever read,