Anyone recognize M1 carbine barrel channel markings?

[Bang]

I recently acquired an M-1 carbine stock sans hand guard at a gun show.

The only markings on it are ink-stamped in the barrel channel.

From front to back, a large capital R on its side, followed by T. AOK and then a large 2 on its side.

It has a cut-out for a selector switch, yet the nose seems to be the short channel. (it's not a pot-belly model either).

Can't find anything on it, been searching many sites.

Thanks

[Bang]

Still trying to identify this walnut stock. Since there are no external marks, I believe it is a civilian aftermarket creation.

I've learned other things about it. Research says there are two forward channel lengths in carbine stocks...a short and a long. The length of this one is neither. There should not be a bridge (ahead of the magazine well cut-out) if there is a selector cut-out. This has a bridge.

Here is another odd thing...6+ years since the above post, the R remains quite visible, the T. AOK is gone, and the 2 is now barely visible.

[Boondox]

Good luck with this....
This sounds like more fun than a barrel full of monkeys.

Not claiming carbine expert status here but have some questions.
Some important some not so much.

Are we 100% certainly that under good light with our best reading glasses on ..... there is no marks in the sling well?
I assume there is a sling well or you would have mentioned this.
I've seen claims of people saying there were no marks but there was when looked at hard enough.

Have you had a USGI gun in this stock?
Fit well?
Do you have a USGI stock , if so ..... is the trigger group opening larger than that of a USGI??

You say it seems to be a short channel ..... but then say it is neither. Have a pic of this from the top and the side with the where the band clip is/goes.?

Used , well used , new?? Have any metal?
If no metal ..... does that mean no barrel band clip either?

Pics of the stock. How/what finish? Walnut , not walnut stained?

Bought 6 yrs ago..... what did it cost?
What else was the guy selling?

Have you considered starting a conversation with Dupage Trading and seeing if this rings a bell to them?

[Bang]

Are we 100% certainly that under good light with our best reading glasses on ..... there is no marks in the sling well?
I assume there is a sling well or you would have mentioned this.
I've seen claims of people saying there were no marks but there was when looked at hard enough. Forensics was once my game. Magnified under oblique light shows nothing but smooth walnut

Have you had a USGI gun in this stock? Yes
Fit well?
Do you have a USGI stock , if so ..... is the trigger group opening larger than that of a USGI?? Yes,and they are the same fit

You say it seems to be a short channel ..... but then say it is neither. Have a pic of this from the top and the side with the where the band clip is/goes.?
M1 Collectors website discusses stocks. The channel is normally approximately 3-3/16". Some Winchesters were extended to 4-1/16" This channel is 3-58"

Used , well used , new?? Have any metal? It appears pristine as though never used. There is an odd attempt at a carved area to accommodate a selective lever, but it is aligned over the bridge, ie too far forward. It looks like someone made a mistake in that attempt and that's why it wound up for sale at a gun show. It came with a butt plate and the band retaining spring.
If no metal ..... does that mean no barrel band clip either? Spring clip present

Pics of the stock. How/what finish? Walnut , not walnut stained? Definitely American black walnut, appears to be BLO finish

Bought 6 yrs ago..... what did it cost? $50. Don't specifically recall, but pretty sure nothing else .30 Carbine.
What else was the guy selling?

Have you considered starting a conversation with Dupage Trading and seeing if this rings a bell to them? I may. Thanks for the suggestion.

Since there is a bridge present (later products and all M2s had no bridge) I think it was originally intended for an M1 and someone started to convert it for an M2, screwed it up, and got rid of it. It is a beautiful piece. Meanwhile the original stock is stored out of harm's way.

The more I look into this, the more I think it is a post-war stock, and the reason for no stamped (impressed) markings.

Sorry for no pics. Sometimes I can do it, sometimes (most times) it turns into an aggravating project.

[Bang]

Attachment 118303Attachment 118304

Pencil points to where Lever cut is usually made, and points to bridge (atop the magwell area) and the cut above it.

[Bang]

Attachment 118305

Doesn't look it, but it is 3-5/8" long channel, which is may as well say out of spec length.

[ScotsGuards]

I just saw this. It appears as though you have, as someone deduced correctly, that you have an Iver Johnson commercial stock with an M-2 cut. Most GI M-2 stocks, except the very early M-2 version, are Pot Belly. The Iver Johnson ones were not. Also ALL GI stocks are marked differently than this one.

[Bang]

I studied all the informative sites when I first bought my M1 roughly 7 years ago. I suspected this is a civilian market stock but with the variations that occasionally occur, I was looking for confirmation that I can trust.....which I have thanks to everyone who helped. Thank you all.

[Boondox]

How is the JB holding up? JB works very well when it works.
I've used it for building up front sights and then filing to size/shape.
I once tried using it to hold a junk B-square scope mount on a rifle and it kept shearing off

[Bang]

How is the JB holding up? JB works very well when it works.
I've used it for building up front sights and then filing to size/shape.
I once tried using it to hold a junk B-square scope mount on a rifle and it kept shearing off

Can't say it has had much of a test. Only fired approximately a hundred rounds since doing it, and it had a small, very light reflex R/G dot on it. A better test will be with the much heavier red/green now on it, which I haven't tried yet.

The use of JB Weld (slow-setting...I believe it's stronger than the 5-minute type). I also roughened the bottom of the converter to give it some tooth.

If this epoxy fails, I'll drill and tap and screw them together. I've been thinking about doing it anyway. I really should, but I'm curious to see if it does hold up.

Mating surfaces were cleaned with acetone, followed by water, and dried prior to putting it together to give the epoxy every possible chance to work.

MarineTex may be stronger. I once used it to hold the magnets in an Evinrude 150HP flywheel which had become loose. Fantastic stuff.