Brass cleaning / polishing

[USMCGRUNT]

Hello all. I have recently came across a fairly large amount of once fired .223 and .45 brass. So of course this gave me an opportunity to spend money on a new hobby.

I purchased the Frankford Arsenal tumbler kit as well as the Hornady ultrasonic cleaner. I have a few been question if you all don't mind? I searched, but have been coming up with many different answers. I initially tried JUST the ultrasonic and the brass seemed cleaner but very far from polished. I read about the Lemishine, Nu-finish, etc. I was looking for step by step instructions and recommendations if someone was kind enough to do so?

-Can anyone explain the amount of times (8 minutes?)and steps to clean/polish the brass?

-Can I tumble in the media immediately after the ultrasonic cleaner to get the "shiny" look?

-Is it ok if the brass is still wet after the ultrasonic cleaner to put right into the tumbler with the media and polish?

-Is there a faster way to dry the brass or will the tumbler dry them out?

Sorry for all the questions, but I can't give up this free brass. Thanks!

[762xIan]

Can anyone explain the amount of times (8 minutes?)and steps to clean/polish the brass?

1. I basically sort my brass, if it is hunting ammo or defense ammo I will separate my brass by headstamp, if it is just for plinking I use mixed headstamp. I usually use this step to give the brass a good once over inspection.

2. I usually clean in 100 round lots, throw them in the Lyman 1200, top off with walnut shells, add a cap of nu finish and a little mineral spirits and start it up and run for around 2 hours.

3. Empty my "vibratory cleaner" and give the brass another good once over. Some have some tarnish, usually not brand new shiny, but clean enough to do the job.

Can I tumble in the media immediately after the ultrasonic cleaner to get the "shiny" look?

Shiny doesn't mean anything, and long term does more harm than good to brass. You just need it clean.

Is it ok if the brass is still wet after the ultrasonic cleaner to put right into the tumbler with the media and polish?

I wouldn't, the cases will be damp to a degree, and you will get clumping in the media and clumping inside the cases.

Is there a faster way to dry the brass or will the tumbler dry them out?

I have heard of guys who put them in a mesh bag in the dryer with some towels, also putting them on a cookie sheet in the oven at very low heat.

Unless you are bench rest shooting, and demand perfection with every case absolutely identical, there really is no need.

[USMCGRUNT]

762- Thank you for all that information. I appreciate the thorough response.

[JoshIronshaft]

2. I usually clean in 100 round lots, throw them in the Lyman 1200, top off with walnut shells, add a cap of nu finish and a little mineral spirits and start it up and run for around 2 hours.

Hey I'm new to this and have a few questions. Why only 100 rounds? How many times can you re-use the media, average? Is the nu finish for cleaning? What are the mineral spirits for? Do you really top it off so it is full to the top? Thanks! Assume I know nothing in your responses lol.

I'll be using a 18 lb Harbor Freight vibratory tumbler. I have a bag of walnut media from them also. I'm not sure how course it is. Any recommendations on that?

Thanks!

[Posit]

Hello all. I have recently came across a fairly large amount of once fired .223 and .45 brass. So of course this gave me an opportunity to spend money on a new hobby.

I purchased the Frankford Arsenal tumbler kit as well as the Hornady ultrasonic cleaner. I have a few been question if you all don't mind? I searched, but have been coming up with many different answers. I initially tried JUST the ultrasonic and the brass seemed cleaner but very far from polished. I read about the Lemishine, Nu-finish, etc. I was looking for step by step instructions and recommendations if someone was kind enough to do so?

-Can anyone explain the amount of times (8 minutes?)and steps to clean/polish the brass?

-Can I tumble in the media immediately after the ultrasonic cleaner to get the "shiny" look?

-Is it ok if the brass is still wet after the ultrasonic cleaner to put right into the tumbler with the media and polish?

-Is there a faster way to dry the brass or will the tumbler dry them out?

Sorry for all the questions, but I can't give up this free brass. Thanks!

Like everything else in reloading, different people / different strokes. But:

- Tumbling brass normally 2-3 hours, up to overnight. Ultrasonic cleaner, 4-6 minutes (in a cleaning solution)
- Wouldn't recommend tumbling immediately after ultrasonic cleaning, as the brass will be wet (inside and out). I've never done it, but I would expect some amount of tumbling media to stick to the brass, inside and out - and a lot of media dust to remain stick inside the cases.
- After ultrasonic cleanng, spread the wet brass on a flat pan (e.g., baking pan) and put in the oven on very low heat for @ 30 minutes, or until dry inside.

I have both tumbler and ultrasonic cleaner. I normally deprime brass, then ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasonic does a much better job removing residue from the inside of the case and flash hole than a tumbler. (I don't worry much about getting a shiny case exterior, because it doesn't make a better shooting cartridge... but, tumbling after the cases are dry certainly won't hurt anything.)
Depriming first as an additional step takes a little more time - but I fire cases several or many times, so I like to avoid build up inside the cases.

After the brass is clean, I resize and proceed with normal loading steps.

Don't use my tumbler often, only if I encounter some extremely tarnished cases - then tumble them, deprime and ultrasonic. If the cases are extremely tarnished, this process makes them a little prettier, but not much.

[762xIan]

Why only 100 rounds?

The Lyman 1200 bowl isn't that big, 100 large rifle cases....more for smaller cases. My rule of thumb is add brass to the bowl until it is 2 or 3 inches deep. Then top off with media.

How many times can you re-use the media, average

I use the media until it is pretty dark, it lasts for many months of use though in my experience. One thing a lot of reloaders will do (myself included) every other cleaning, I will quarter a used dryer sheet and put it in the mix, they remove a lot of dirt, dust and come out pretty black.

Is the nu finish for cleaning? What are the mineral spirits for?

I am a cheap bastard. I buy the crushed walnut shells you see in the pet stores, sometimes called "Lizard Litter" or something, it is very cheap and usually comes in a large bag. The real deal media is pretty expensive and has polishing compounds in it. Since I am buying untreated walnut I add some car polish and a little mineral spirits.

Do you really top it off so it is full to the top

I usually fill it up to about an inch from the top...the vibration caused movement and the media flows, if you fill it to the top it will spill out. The level usually drops a bit after you start it and the cases fill up, I will stop it after a minute of running and add a little more media if needed.

I'm not sure how course it is

The latest stuff I am using is pretty small, smaller than the flash hole, I very rarely get a plugged up primer hole with this stuff. I was using corncob that was a little bigger and it would plug up the holes...but I clean pockets and do a good brass inspection anyway so it wasn't a big deal.

You should be fine, some of it is trial and error and finding out what works best for you.

Good luck.

[pacpiper]

I've been tempted by the ultrasonic cleaning methods but so far just plain tumblin' has worked great.

I use 50/50 mix of walnut shell/corn cob media.

Fill half the tumbler with brass, I never count.

Add media, shake until I can't see the brass, couple of dryer sheets cut into strips, a capful of car polish, and 2 hours later things come out pretty nice and clean (and relatively shiny).

Don't over think it. You can't go wrong with any method.

As far as media changing. I'm still using the stuff I put in 2 years ago and I tumble 1-4x per month.

[csmith]

Tumbling works great for me. I've looked into going the ultrasonic route a few times but the results I have seen just don't do it for me. 2.5 or 3 hours of tumbling with some of this and a cap full of brass polish and my cases come out looking like mirrors. I usually run 200-300 in the tumbler per batch.

That media I linked works better than anything else I have tried, and you simply cannot beat the price. That bag is enough to fill a pair of 5 gallon buckets.

[carrguy1]

...One thing a lot of reloaders will do (myself included) every other cleaning, I will quarter a used dryer sheet and put it in the mix, they remove a lot of dirt, dust and come out pretty black.

I hadn't heard of the dryer sheet trick before. Thanks for the tip.

...I am a cheap bastard. I buy the crushed walnut shells you see in the pet stores, sometimes called "Lizard Litter" or something, it is very cheap and usually comes in a large bag. The real deal media is pretty expensive and has polishing compounds in it. Since I am buying untreated walnut I add some car polish and a little mineral spirits.

I've been using some walnut that my dad gave me and that should last a while but, as someone mentioned, Harbor Freight sells walnut media too. I've seen it in store and their web site lists it in both fine and coarse grades for $23/25lbs (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...esult?q=walnut). I figured that was a good deal the next time I need it. I'm sure the car polish and mineral spirits or even plain brass polish methods are cheaper but I've been using Dillon's case polish and the brass comes out looking mostly new.

Tumbling works great for me. I've looked into going the ultrasonic route a few times but the results I have seen just don't do it for me. 2.5 or 3 hours of tumbling with some of this and a cap full of brass polish and my cases come out looking like mirrors. I usually run 200-300 in the tumbler per batch.

That media I linked works better than anything else I have tried, and you simply cannot beat the price. That bag is enough to fill a pair of 5 gallon buckets.

That link is another good tip. It's even cheaper than the stuff I just mentioned from Harbor Freight. Either way 25 lbs, 40 lbs, that should last a long time depending on how much tumbling you're doing.

Here's a question for you guys on the order in which I tumble/size/deprime. I've only ever done straight walled pistol cases by myself with carbide dies so I don't lube the cases. I've reloaded for rifles before with my dad but I'm going to be doing more on my own now. I'm going on his advice and this method has never let him down so I have no reason to doubt it but I thought I'd get some other opinions while we're on the subject. The press is a Dillon 550 progressive so sizing, depriming, and priming is all done at stage one. He likes to lube the cases, size/deprime/prime, then tumble to get all the lube off of them to help keep the other stages' dies (powder, seat, etc.) clean before moving to said stages. I'll also be tumbling once before size/deprime/prime to keep the sizing die clean. Thoughts?

[bamboomaster]

Here's a question for you guys on the order in which I tumble/size/deprime. I've only ever done straight walled pistol cases by myself with carbide dies so I don't lube the cases. I've reloaded for rifles before with my dad but I'm going to be doing more on my own now. I'm going on his advice and this method has never let him down so I have no reason to doubt it but I thought I'd get some other opinions while we're on the subject. The press is a Dillon 550 progressive so sizing, depriming, and priming is all done at stage one. He likes to lube the cases, size/deprime/prime, then tumble to get all the lube off of them to help keep the other stages' dies (powder, seat, etc.) clean before moving to said stages. I'll also be tumbling once before size/deprime/prime to keep the sizing die clean. Thoughts?

Have always used "Roger's Sizing Magic Dust". Works great on all pistol straight walled cartridges, including .45-70's.

I usually put whatever cases (tumbled, but not deprimed or lubed) I'm reloading into a 1 gal. Ziploc bag, put a few squirts of "Magic Dust" in the bag, seal it up, then gently roll it around in my hands for about twenty seconds, being careful not to inadvertently open the bag and scatter my cases all over the floor. The motion helps distribute the dust across all cases.

I think of it as pixie dust, for it sure works its magic - no stuck cases - and no BS! It's affordable and one bottle lasts a long time.

FWIW, also use a Dillon 550B for about 10-15K rnds per year, depending on what's going on...

Here's the link: http://www.kingshooters.com/magic-dust-p-25767.html