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[Hodgie]

This was the Black Friday deal that I was waiting for and they didn't have this year, and while it's only going to be a two hour flash sale today it's worth getting on. I am posting it now since I will not be around when it kicks off later today. This is an excellent pistol or rifle light that I have put several hours on doing different things with, the latest was using it as a hand held while working in my attic this past Sunday.

https://www.olightstore.com/pl-2-valkyrie.html

Flash sale between 1pm and 3pm est.

PL-2 Valkyrie
Sale price: $59.97

Free shipping on all orders over $49.99 and they ship fast.




https://www.olightstore.com/pl-2-valkyrie.html


They are also throwing a free one of these little kick ass key chain lights in with every order, you just have to register an account and it should get auto added to your card.

Less then one hour left on this deal.

[rckeystone]

Disclaimer first - I am no expert, just what I've done and things may differ with your setup. You may want to look at this page for a better explanation than I can provide:

https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/headspace-gauge-ar/

With that out of the way... way back when before I even knew there <could> be a difference between NATO and SAAMI specs I purchased a set for .223 Remington which is what your link is showing. I've used it over the years and have not had any instances up to this point where it didn't 'perform' as expected. Whether your circumstances could dictate the need for a NATO spec gauge for some things is a different question, the point being there is a difference between the two that you should be aware of.

In the case of these specific uppers from Combat Armory I did what I usually do and it wouldn't close. Then I started trying different combinations with other uppers and bolts and that gauge showed what I was expecting. That specific upper consistently would not chamber on that same gauge so it appeared to be working for me.

If you're using the same upper and .223 ammo I would expect that gauge to be good to go, that is until someone who actually knows what they are talking about show up and says otherwise

.

LOL!! This is all starting to make my hair hurt

However, I can see it's important and it's something new I'm learning about so I really appreciate your time on this. OK, so a difference exists between .223 and 556. Safe bet I guess is to get one gauge of each then LOL

.

[crffl]

LOL!! This is all starting to make my hair hurt

However, I can see it's important and it's something new I'm learning about so I really appreciate your time on this. OK, so a difference exists between .223 and 556. Safe bet I guess is to get one gauge of each then LOL

.

That's my fault, I tend to overthink things but because yes it is important (for me the thought of something giving way that's next to my face freaks me out) I like to be somewhat cautious.

Truth is its really just a matter of dropping in the gauge and see what the bolt does, I only mention the SAAMI vs NATO thing because i've seen it debated over the years and it 'can' make a difference, but for me I always looked at it as what kind of ammo are you using, retail off the shelf from you're local Walmart or milsurp. For me its .223 retail not 5.56 so I used the SAAMI gauge which is what you linked to previously.

Lot of people just use a factory cartridge as a GO and make sure it closes, which is exactly what I did in addition to the gauge when I first checked it. I never had one NOT close so it puzzled me. Again the caution with that is to remove the firing pin 'just in case'. It all depends on your comfort level. Don't let my over abundance of caution and over thinking scare you away from it, it a hobby, supposed to be fun, and for me part of the fun is the learning.

.

[Emptymag]

BTW, the ammo case at my store has gone almost bare in a matter of a few days.
No discount price tags in sight.

I wonder if they are shuffling it to different stores or something.
I don't have any "connections" in that department and I don't really care enough about it to ask anyone.

[Hodgie]

BTW, the ammo case at my store has gone almost bare in a matter of a few days.
No discount price tags in sight.

I wonder if they are shuffling it to different stores or something.
I don't have any "connections" in that department and I don't really care enough about it to ask anyone.

I beleive there was a letter that went out that stated they were donating all now banned calibers to local LE.

[Walleye Hunter]

On this subject I might just pick up an 80% lower at the show tomorrow just because, 'Merica and all that. What should I look for and what would be a fair price?

[Krichardson]

I've seen those 80% vendors at past shows and considered getting a kit for a project.It will be interesting to see if their prices have changed as a result of the latest talk on the products.

[Walleye Hunter]

I've seen those 80% vendors at past shows and considered getting a kit for a project.It will be interesting to see if their prices have changed as a result of the latest talk on the products.

Yep, and I never looked at them so I don't know what they have been.

[rckeystone]

That's my fault, I tend to overthink things but because yes it is important (for me the thought of something giving way that's next to my face freaks me out) I like to be somewhat cautious.

Truth is its really just a matter of dropping in the gauge and see what the bolt does, I only mention the SAAMI vs NATO thing because i've seen it debated over the years and it 'can' make a difference, but for me I always looked at it as what kind of ammo are you using, retail off the shelf from you're local Walmart or milsurp. For me its .223 retail not 5.56 so I used the SAAMI gauge which is what you linked to previously.

Lot of people just use a factory cartridge as a GO and make sure it closes, which is exactly what I did in addition to the gauge when I first checked it. I never had one NOT close so it puzzled me. Again the caution with that is to remove the firing pin 'just in case'. It all depends on your comfort level. Don't let my over abundance of caution and over thinking scare you away from it, it a hobby, supposed to be fun, and for me part of the fun is the learning.

.

Actually this is an education for me. Much appreciated. I have a mix of off the shelf 223 and 556 so IDK. I'm thinking either of checking with both or just check with the 556 GO since that's a tighter tolerance. I'll have to sleep on it all.

But hey, I hate to admit it but I've never even taken a bolt ass'y apart so this will cause me to do that, plus I'll learn how to check head space etc. I've always kind of felt lazy that I don't know more about the rifles. This pushes me in the right direction.

Oh and from a thread I read someplace (arfcom maybe) some say the .223 gauge was more for bolt action. Again IDK. Just something I read, but it was on the internet so it must be true LOL

[HKusp 45]

Yep, and I never looked at them so I don't know what they have been.

On average for anodized forged runs online from $38.00 up to about $55.00 unless it's 80% arms (they gouge) raw forged runs between $30-$40. Billets raw go for between $55 - $90 depending on who your buying from (If your doing online your best two bets are modulus arms and venom defense, venom defense coupon code for 30% off is santa right now. Be aware everyone is slow to ship right now.

https://venom-defense.com/

Modulus Arms

https://www.modulusarms.com/

Side note tactical machining is reasonably prices as well.

https://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-lowers.html

That being said you are obviously going to pay a premium a the gun show but realistically you should still be within the range of $50-$60 anything more than that they are gouging the shit out of you and you may as well just grab them online unless your worried about the cc transaction (of which PA has no right to)

poly 80 glocks on average right now are about $100.00 give or take and that's everywhere online save a few places. any more than $120.00 at the show I'd walk away. but that's my opinion