Polishing Feed

[cruzans]

Hopefully this isn't too dumb a question. I always hear talk of "polishing the feed" especially with 1911's that have trouble with hp's, etc.. I have a few 380's that are 1911 style, and I'm getting some fte's. Some of it may be because they have not been fired much, but I thought I'd polish the feed. My question, by polishing the feed, is it done by using my dremel with soft polishing like tip or do you need something more substancial like 0000 steel wool or super fine sand paper?

[sgranan]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfye--eO9xg

This video might help you out.

[cruzans]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfye--eO9xg

This video might help you out.

Hey thanks - I should have thought about youtube - I go there whenever I buy a new gun and don't have paperwork and want to see how to field strip - should have thought to look up polishing feed

[.45Kimber1911]

I really doubt that the feed ramp has much to do with a failure to eject issue that you mention. Feeding...Yes, obviously. Failure to eject issues in a 1911 type subcompact are likely related to the extractor tension, recoil spring resistance, or ejector deformation. Try looking at those things first and I bet you will find that something is off in one of those things.

[tonyfac]

Take it from someone who knows. Do not polish feed ramps unless you are absolutely sure what you are doing. i tried this many years ago on an ak47 that had feed issues, yes, i destroyed the barrel and had to re-barrel it. if you decide to do it, do it very little at a time and test. In all honesty, i did try to change the feed angle after polishing which is what ultimately destroyed the barrel. i have a Walther p22 i would like to polish because of feed issues. I might just try it one day, after I buy a replacement barrel.

[cruzans]

I really doubt that the feed ramp has much to do with a failure to eject issue that you mention. Feeding...Yes, obviously. Failure to eject issues in a 1911 type subcompact are likely related to the extractor tension, recoil spring resistance, or ejector deformation. Try looking at those things first and I bet you will find that something is off in one of those things.

Good point, thanks! Gun with the most fte is an older .380 but I do not believe it was ever fired. I'll take her out a few more times, and if it doesn't go away, will look at the extractor / ejector.
Thanks!

[knight0334]

Good point, thanks! Gun with the most fte is an older .380 but I do not believe it was ever fired. I'll take her out a few more times, and if it doesn't go away, will look at the extractor / ejector.
Thanks!

Failure to eject on older .380's, which are more often than not, a blowback design are typically an issue due the gun not being broken in or not using hot enough ammo.

If they weren't shot much, the recoil spring may still be overly strong. ...strong enough to not allow the slide to cycle back far enough or fast enough to eject the casing.

Blowback guns do need a breaking in period unless you are going to use warmer ammo in the beginning.

Other possible issues are a rough chamber or the ejector's length isn't proper. I doubt the ejector length is an issue, but chambers are often rough from the factory. ...they use the same reamer for countless guns before replacing it or resharpening it. The later guns in the reamer changeout cycle will have rougher chambers than those right after a new reamer is used.

Rough chambers will cause the brass to have more to stick to, which will cause problems with the timing of the cycling and the amount of recoil thrust that is needed to cycle the gun.

I would:
1. Inspect the chamber. If you see rings/machine markings, you many need to polish the chamber.
2. Try some warmer loads in the gun. Keep them within the gun's pressure ratings though. If it cycles, well then the gun probably isn't broken in.
3. Keep shooting regular ammo to get the recoil spring broken in.
4. Make sure the slide rails are clean and deburred. Then properly lubed. Any drag on the slide's cycling can cause FTE/FTF issues.