C'Mon S&W Get it Right!

**Just1more** · October 24th, 2012, 08:06 PM

So I now have my 9mm Shield back with a new barrel and it seems to be good so far. Well, just after posting that, we took the shield to the range today.

Lo and behold, the right rear sight dot fell off. (That must have been why my shots were not placed well....yeah right....) This is just pure aggravating. We had this happen on our full size M&P front sight dot also and read that it is a very common problem. It was said they didn't clean properly a batch of the sights - well I thought that was a mistake of the past. Not so, i see. Their quality control is less than I expect from such a company.

Whats up S&W? I shouldn't have to buy paint and redo it already.....

**mrnyman** · October 25th, 2012, 12:01 AM

Thats Smith &WEsson for ya, extremely poor quality control.
See the post above yours about same Gun.

Ironically the best most reliable and toughest Auto Pistol they make is the Much maligned Sigma series.

**Just1more** · October 25th, 2012, 12:38 PM

So to remove the rear sight, does anyone know what sort of punch and where to get one is?
I understand if I decide to put apex parts in, I would need this part also. So I might as well get one as the paint which I will try first, may not last long although I will continue to paint it for now.

**IntenseImage** · October 25th, 2012, 01:14 PM

You can use a brass punch or even a brass bar filed to shape. However, I caution you that SAW uses a 2.5 ton press to get these things in. Many times a brass punch will deform before the sight budges. A steel punch can work too but you risk marring the finish.

There are some universal sight tools out there, plus the MGW M&P specific one that should work. I am using a "universal" one a guy was selling on the mp-pistol forums on my FS - but it should work for the shield as well.

For the Apex parts, the only one that requires the sight to be removed is the Striker Blocker

**orionz06** · October 26th, 2012, 08:00 AM

The dots will always fall out, can't fault that. Most would view a plain rear as an improvement anyway. Use a brass rod and the sight will slide out with ease. I have done piles of these without the tool and the brass rod is just fine.

**scruff** · October 26th, 2012, 06:46 PM

The dovetail is tapered, so the sight only comes out one way. When viewed from the rear, you need to tap the sight out from left to right, towards the ejection port side. Use a piece of brass or aluminum to avoid damaging anything, and put some masking tape on the tool so it doesn't mark up the gun. Also, there's a spring and cover plate under the sight that will fly out if you don't control it. This video from Apex gives you a good look at it.

You're right - it's probably better to just paint it for now. If you want to take it out, I can loan you a brass punch and the plastic dovetail tool that temporarily holds the spring in place.

**gold cup abuser** · October 26th, 2012, 06:51 PM

Put the slide in a large zip lock bag BEFORE you do this.

You will thank me later.

**Just1more** · October 27th, 2012, 04:41 PM

Thanks for the info - just received a bunch of free stuff from S&W for my troubles. Still awaiting the actual sight though.

**Theojt** · February 24th, 2013, 11:31 AM

Couple of points on the Shield sights:

1. MGW tool does not work. It is not machined for the dimensions of the Shield slide. I read where one guy used it by taking the spacer and slide clamp off. When I tried that I could not get it to work. The slide just starts rotating in the tool and I didn't want to scratch it.

2. Spray some WD40 on the sights and let them soak overnight. That seems to help a bit. I had a Universal sight press that I managed to get a set of sights out with after soaking overnight.

3. Saw a suggestion to try Wart Freeze spray but haven't tried that yet. The tip of the spray is supposed to be -270 degrees, so maybe that'll work to shrink the sight slightly . Gonna to try that next week when my Apex parts are in.

4. What has worked for me, is clamping the slide between two wood blocks (use a vise or clamp to the edge of bench, snug, but not too tight). Then using a tape-wrapped steel punch, carefully hammering out the sights. As mentioned above, pay attention that you always go Left to Right (looking from rear of slide). Use short, solid taps, don't just beat on it. Soaking overnight in WD40 may help here. Watch the striker safety spring and cover that are under the rear sight. Once you have the rear sight about 1/2 out use smaller taps until you can see the small round cover and then go slowly. If you get the Apex kit, it has a plastic tool to retain the spring and cover as you push out the sight. Once you see this part under the sight, only small taps are needed to finish removing the sight.

I always wrap the slide in duct tape and always use a material softer than the slide to clamp it. Wood works, nylon strapping folded over itself a couple of times, etc. Don't over-tighten the vise/clamps.

HTH