Questions on the economics of reloading

[spring1898]

Greetings all, various threads have talked about this subject, but since I am new to the concept and I don't know all that goes into reloading I want to get your opinions on whether handloading/reloading is economical for me and my particular situation. My question takes into account not only money, but also time necessary to dedicate. If it only saves me for example $0.05 a shot for rifle loads, it may not be the best for me to reload because of the time commitment.

First off I am a student, with lots of time needing to be spent studying, class related projects/events. Looking at about 40 hours a week at least. Then I work 4-12 hours a week, plus take care of the house etc. There are lots of things on my plate, but I still like to head out to the range, and the idea of being able to pump out 100 rounds in a 20 minute study break is pretty attractive.

I don't have a lot of money, so I am well familiar with buying in bulk and looking for deals.

There may be the opportunity to acquire some used reloading equipment free of charge (if I am lucky, a Hornady Lock and load AP), the only thing I would have to get would be the dies and whatever else is needed (I don't know what all that is, could use help here too). Reloading seems to be where the savings are but if I was also to reload, I imagine there would be more expense both in money and time acquiring the means to sort and clean brass?

The calibers I would consider handloading/reloading would be 7.62 x 54r, 7.62 x 39 (hunting loads) .303 British, 8mmJS, .308/7.62x51, .30-06, 9mm, 45 ACP, and 10mm Auto, and maybe 5.56x45.
What I am mostly looking to do is to make loads that I can't find, like match 7.62 x 54r and 8mm Mauser, or make less expensive match rounds than I could find for say .30-06 or even .308. And make inexpensive but quality plinking loads that cost less than what I could purchase them for.

First question, what would it cost me in dies and what are the other things that I would need to get started that may not come with the stock loader. (I know I could look this all up but it saves me time to ask you experts, and then I get all the information in one place)?

Second, Is it truly economical to make full power plinking rounds, I.E. full weight FMJ's, and powder? $8-$9 a box for 9mm wolf, or $0.37 .308 wolf is hard to beat. Obviously quality of handloads would be higher. But economically for plinking purposes do handloads match up, using the same parts consistently, not just hodge-podge pieces from half a dozen sales here and there? I don't really like the idea of loading with x bullets one week and y bullets if it affects consistancy or performance.

Third, which calibers do you think would be economical to load and which, if any, should I not waste my time on? O
obviously for the match rounds I have to make them or pay for them, but for example .303 is supposedly hard on brass, which is not cheap in and of itself and PPU can be had for $0.70 a shot.

Fourth, what cost saving measures can I put forth regarding using the same components for multiple calibers. 7.62 and .303 use the same bullets, as do .308 and 30-06. Could I use the same match powder for the match loads of all the rifle calibers, and the same plinking powder for plinking rounds of all the calibers, and so buy bulk of each and have only 2 powders?

Fifth, about how many loads can you get out of a rifle brass case? Does performance or consistancy suffer as it ages? What all is involved in prepping fired case for reloading.

I appreciate any and all help so please stick around as I am sure to have more questions as the first ones get answered. With good answers this could be helpful for other people who are in similar situation.

Thanks!

[Yellowfin]

Question 1: Dies can be had for $25-50 depending on which brand, new or used, and which calibers. Shop around a bit and you can get some pretty good deals. Other than the presses themselves and the dies, at a minimum you will need:

a. calipers
b. powder scale
c. powder measuring device for dispensing the powder charge
d. tumbler and media (which is cheap) for cleaning the brass
e. priming tool if not included with your reloading press setup
f. case trimmer
g. lube (Ballistol or others will do) for sizing rifle brass

Also nice to have a deburring/chamfer tool.

Question 2: Yes you absolutely do come out ahead vs. Wolf if you get your bullets for the right price. 9mm can be handloaded for $4-5 a box vs. the $8-9 of Wolf, 5.56/.223 can come out somewhat ahead not too difficult if you buy the bullets cheap. As for getting different lots of bullets, as long as you keep same kinds together it's not an issue if you know that you're shooting separate batches at the time. E.g. if you get say 150 of a 168 gr .308 Nosler for the .308 and .30-06 then 225 of a 175 Sierra, just mark the boxes of finished ammo accordingly and you'll have 2 sets of different yet both very accurate ammo that you simply coordinate what you shoot together.

Question 3 and 4: You can load most of those centerfire rifle rounds with the same powder and save BIGTIME, like 50% or more over store bought. Ditto with pistol rounds, particularly .45 ACP and 10mm the latter of which they seem to charge WAY more b/c of smaller production batches. VERY worthwhile. Again, 5.56 is narrower a margin on the less expensive type rounds so for plinking you might save the time buying them but it gets back to major savings when loading the match type stuff.

Question 5: Depending on the brand (Lapua and Norma are really really good), up to 10 with some and typically not less than 5. Performance after a few firings really depends on the particular batch in question, and as stated Lapua is thought to be the best with Norma and Hornady also well thought of. Preparation involves inspection, cleaning, reinspection, lubing, sizing through a sizing die, and measuring and trimming to appropriate length.

[M&P Chris]

I save an average of 50% reloading than what it would cost buying factory ammo.

[tonyfac]

here is a cost calculator, this might be helpful. get some prices and you can see your savings. i save about 50% reloading my own, especially .308, i tend to shoot a lot of .308

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

[CL3]

Total up how much you spend per month on ammo from the store. Then, total up the start-up costs on reloading equipment, plus monthly reloading supplies to shoot the same amount. Divide the reloading equipment & supplies per month by what you shoot now per month. This will be your break-even timeframe in months.

Mine was a couple of years, so I won't relaod (yet?). Maybe I don't shoot enough...?!

The bigger factor for me, and likely for you as I'm not much older, is what is your time worth?

[MT1]

Ditto on the 50%+ savings.

It sounds as if your time is very limited with your present schedule. Reloading is VERY time consuming, especially for precision shooting. However, if you have an opportunity to get the equipment at no charge jump on it now.

[justashooter]

With good answers this could be helpful for other people who are in similar situation.

you are scratching the surface, buddy. you are focused on full power rifle loads, which is often a mistake in considering 308, 30-06, 7.62X54R, 8X57. you would be better suited to work with "mid range" loads, or subsonics.

mid range loads in any of the above calibers would be 1500-1800 fps with standard weight bullets. subsonics would be cast bullets at 1000 fps or so. then there is the grey area in between, which is also interesting.

any of these loads are soft on the shoulder and the ear, those with cast bullets (up to 1600 fps) are dirt cheap, and can be fired in a backyard range without pissing off the neighbors. accuracy is still fun to strive for, but you use shorter ranges.

small game is taken with low velocity loads, indoor shooting is possible with wax bullets, shotloads can be made for several of your cartridges, round ball loads (#4 buck and bullseye for your 30 calibers) are fun at short range, and pistol bullets can be used in sub sonic or mid range for cheap.

this is the beauty of handloading. you can make things you can't buy, and do it for next to nothing.

example:

303 subsonic is used cases picked up at gunshow for 10 cents each, 115 grain lead castings at .314 (for 32-20) at 6 cents each, primers 2-3 cents each, unique (8 grains) at 2.5 cents, producing 1000 fps, for total of 20 cents a pop first time around, and 10 cents subsequently for an almost unlimited number of reloadings.

then there is the "kid and chick factor". kids and girls wanna shoot, too, and they like low powered loads.

[spring1898]

you are scratching the surface, buddy. you are focused on full power rifle loads, which is often a mistake in considering 308, 30-06, 7.62X54R, 8X57. you would be better suited to work with "mid range" loads, or subsonics.

mid range loads in any of the above calibers would be 1500-1800 fps with standard weight bullets. subsonics would be cast bullets at 1000 fps or so. then there is the grey area in between, which is also interesting.

any of these loads are soft on the shoulder and the ear, those with cast bullets (up to 1600 fps) are dirt cheap, and can be fired in a backyard range without pissing off the neighbors. accuracy is still fun to strive for, but you use shorter ranges.

small game is taken with low velocity loads, indoor shooting is possible with wax bullets, shotloads can be made for several of your cartridges, round ball loads (#4 buck and bullseye for your 30 calibers) are fun at short range, and pistol bullets can be used in sub sonic or mid range for cheap.

this is the beauty of handloading. you can make things you can't buy, and do it for next to nothing.

example:

303 subsonic is used cases picked up at gunshow for 10 cents each, 115 grain lead castings at .314 (for 32-20) at 6 cents each, primers 2-3 cents each, unique (8 grains) at 2.5 cents, producing 1000 fps, for total of 20 cents a pop first time around, and 10 cents subsequently for an almost unlimited number of reloadings.

then there is the "kid and chick factor". kids and girls wanna shoot, too, and they like low powered loads.

And that is specifically why I made this thread, because I didn't find the answers to all my questions in one place for my particular goals and situations.

My goal is to supplant my commercial purchases with handloads, if possible. At the moment I have no interest in low power loads, as they don't perform the same for full rifle loads. It is cheaper for plinking, but I am also looking for consistency. That would also necessitate the need for separate loads. I also don't have the location to work with lead. The advice is relevant to me, but just not at this point in time.