Questions on the economics of reloading

[knight0334]

As far as time cost goes, reloading can be done when time isn't favorable for other activities, such as unpleasant weather, insomnia, and power outages.

Yep..

A cold winter day, a rainy day, nothing on TV, etc, etc.. Instead of drooling on your guns while you molest them since you cannot be out shooting them - you can reload.

I too value my free-time in dollar figures that I get paid for work, but when there is absolutely nothing else to do or conditions prohibit doing anything else - there is always reloading that can be done.

A person doesn't even have to load completely in one sitting. They can do it in stages.. ...like clean the cases one day, deprime & resize another day, check primer pockets/case lengths another, trim if necessary another day, prime another day, then finally load them.

If you're one to sit in front of the TV for a couple hours each evening you can check/clean primer pockets, check case lengths, and hand prime(if you have the tool) which watching TV.

[elementfreak431]

Another thing about the some of the more tedious processes in reloading (case trimming, primer pocket swaging, etc.) is to go small bits at a time. Im a student as well and started reloading last year (freshman year) and didnt have a lot of time (still don't) because I'm a business major and need a 3.5 minimum GPA to graduate. Anyway, back on topic. What I like to do is do one operation for 50 pieces a night (for case prep)

This means that say tonight, I will full length size and deprime 50 .223 cases. Tomorrow I will take out the primer crimps (since I use military brass). The next day I trim. After that, I measure a few samples to make sure they are in spec, and then im done. It takes no time at all each night to do 1 operation, and it all really ads up. I recommend using Hornady 1 shot case lube along with the blue Frankford trays. Its real easy to load up a tray and spray it with case lube and be on your way. Sizing/depriming takes a few minutes for 50 cases. You start to get real mechanical and fast with it after a while.

I use a lee press and dies to keep costs down. I just bought a Hornady case trimmer which is really nice and I love it and it was around $60 from midway. Case prep really seems to chew up most of my time for reloading. The actually assembly is pretty simple and doesnt take too long. Prime the case, drop in powder, seat bullet, and crimp. I like to measure every 5th round just to make sure all dimensions and weights are up to spec.

In short, working on small quantities of brass each night really adds up by the end of the week. The only way to defeat the initial start up cost is to (safely) load a lot of ammo. Price out your components. You dont NEED to start with top tier equipment, especially if you don't think you will stick with reloading as a hobby.

And lastly, buy a reloading manual. I use the Lyman 49th edition. Buy a manual and read it twice. It will answer most, if not all of your questions. Have fun and let us know how it all goes!

[spring1898]

Another question for you guys.

Does anyone have a more or less complete list of what all is needed to get into reloading minus the press and powder charge?

Specific is good, ie not just dies, but resizer, case beller, etc.

I am trying to put together a list and rough cost of each components for my summary.

Thanks

[tonyfac]

this has been discussed many times, but here are some things.

Reloading Manuals, more than 1, read them, they are full of great info.
Case trimmer
Caliper (Measure OAL and case length)
Bullets and brass (of course)
Powder scale
Notebook and pencil (yes, take notes on what you are doing, caliber, charge, weight etc...)
Case lube, if doing rifle brass.
if you buy a set of dies, you get all the dies you need for that caliber, plus instructions on how to set them up.

[spring1898]

Okay, does anyone anyone use a Hornady lock and load AP in the vicinity around Erie PA or Scranton/Wilkes Barre? I would like to see a progressive in action and learn a bit about reloading in person.

[elementfreak431]

Yep..

A cold winter day, a rainy day, nothing on TV, etc, etc.. Instead of drooling on your guns while you molest them since you cannot be out shooting them - you can reload.

I too value my free-time in dollar figures that I get paid for work, but when there is absolutely nothing else to do or conditions prohibit doing anything else - there is always reloading that can be done.

A person doesn't even have to load completely in one sitting. They can do it in stages.. ...like clean the cases one day, deprime & resize another day, check primer pockets/case lengths another, trim if necessary another day, prime another day, then finally load them.

If you're one to sit in front of the TV for a couple hours each evening you can check/clean primer pockets, check case lengths, and hand prime(if you have the tool) which watching TV.

I should have read this before I made my post lol!

[Pagoda240]

Okay, does anyone anyone use a Hornady lock and load AP in the vicinity around Erie PA or Scranton/Wilkes Barre? I would like to see a progressive in action and learn a bit about reloading in person.

If your ever in Reading PA 19610 let me know, just got one about a week ago.

[justashooter]

With good answers this could be helpful for other people who are in similar situation.

you are scratching the surface, buddy. you are focused on full power rifle loads, which is often a mistake in considering 308, 30-06, 7.62X54R, 8X57. you would be better suited to work with "mid range" loads, or subsonics.

mid range loads in any of the above calibers would be 1500-1800 fps with standard weight bullets. subsonics would be cast bullets at 1000 fps or so. then there is the grey area in between, which is also interesting.

any of these loads are soft on the shoulder and the ear, those with cast bullets (up to 1600 fps) are dirt cheap, and can be fired in a backyard range without pissing off the neighbors. accuracy is still fun to strive for, but you use shorter ranges.

small game is taken with low velocity loads, indoor shooting is possible with wax bullets, shotloads can be made for several of your cartridges, round ball loads (#4 buck and bullseye for your 30 calibers) are fun at short range, and pistol bullets can be used in sub sonic or mid range for cheap.

this is the beauty of handloading. you can make things you can't buy, and do it for next to nothing.

example:

303 subsonic is used cases picked up at gunshow for 10 cents each, 115 grain lead castings at .314 (for 32-20) at 6 cents each, primers 2-3 cents each, unique (8 grains) at 2.5 cents, producing 1000 fps, for total of 20 cents a pop first time around, and 10 cents subsequently for an almost unlimited number of reloadings.

then there is the "kid and chick factor". kids and girls wanna shoot, too, and they like low powered loads.

[spring1898]

you are scratching the surface, buddy. you are focused on full power rifle loads, which is often a mistake in considering 308, 30-06, 7.62X54R, 8X57. you would be better suited to work with "mid range" loads, or subsonics.

mid range loads in any of the above calibers would be 1500-1800 fps with standard weight bullets. subsonics would be cast bullets at 1000 fps or so. then there is the grey area in between, which is also interesting.

any of these loads are soft on the shoulder and the ear, those with cast bullets (up to 1600 fps) are dirt cheap, and can be fired in a backyard range without pissing off the neighbors. accuracy is still fun to strive for, but you use shorter ranges.

small game is taken with low velocity loads, indoor shooting is possible with wax bullets, shotloads can be made for several of your cartridges, round ball loads (#4 buck and bullseye for your 30 calibers) are fun at short range, and pistol bullets can be used in sub sonic or mid range for cheap.

this is the beauty of handloading. you can make things you can't buy, and do it for next to nothing.

example:

303 subsonic is used cases picked up at gunshow for 10 cents each, 115 grain lead castings at .314 (for 32-20) at 6 cents each, primers 2-3 cents each, unique (8 grains) at 2.5 cents, producing 1000 fps, for total of 20 cents a pop first time around, and 10 cents subsequently for an almost unlimited number of reloadings.

then there is the "kid and chick factor". kids and girls wanna shoot, too, and they like low powered loads.

And that is specifically why I made this thread, because I didn't find the answers to all my questions in one place for my particular goals and situations.

My goal is to supplant my commercial purchases with handloads, if possible. At the moment I have no interest in low power loads, as they don't perform the same for full rifle loads. It is cheaper for plinking, but I am also looking for consistency. That would also necessitate the need for separate loads. I also don't have the location to work with lead. The advice is relevant to me, but just not at this point in time.

[noylj]

Yeah, those of us who reload have never considered simply buying our ammunition. God, I feel so stupid!
If you ask the question, then you aren't a handloader and shouldn't even consider it.
Watch for special bulk buys on surplus ammunition.
If cheap ammo is good enough for your gun, then continue using it.
If you don't care about how accurate your guns can be, then buy your ammo.
Handloading is not expensive to get into, but everybody seems to think that all the stuff they bought are "must haves." They turn their nose up at inexpensive presses and expect others to buy all the fancy toys they "need."
One thing, though, if you are planning to shoot a lot of rifle rounds (not counting .223 Rem), you will be buying a lot of expensive jacketed bullets--and Montana Gold and Precision Delta do not sell reasonably priced jacketed .308 bullets. Under that condition, reloading may not save much money, but it sure will let you tailor loads to your gun and find bullets that bring out the best in your gun.
If you are shooting 9x19, then you can buy super accurate 124gn JHP bullets for $340/3750, or about 9 cents a bullet or excellent 125gn L-TCN cast lead bullets for $48.21/1000, or just under 5 cents a bullet. Powder will run 1-2 cents and primers will run about 2 cents. Thus, not counting the cost of reloading equipment, your cost per round will be somewhere between 8-14 cents per round--provided you have saved your brass cases.