Glock changes

**soccerbum87** · July 6th, 2012, 11:40 PM

So like everything I couldn't keep my perfectly working Glock 17 stock. It ran perfectly for around 1000 rounds so I decided to upgrade pretty much everything. I got a Lonewolf extended threaded barrel, ghost 3.5lb connector, new ejector, streamlight TLR-4 laser light combo, and stainless guide rod with the factory weight spring. With all of these upgrades the only problem I ran into was the guide rod is one of the quick change spring ones and the spring on it was creeping over the end screw which was keeping the slide from coming to full battery. Luckily I noticed this at home before I took it to the range. So I fashioned a bushing out of a small washer, this washer fits over the guide rod but not over the head of the screw and it happens to fit perfectly in the front of the slide where the spring would normally press into. I then took it to the range and she ran perfectly without any problems with 200 rounds. I don't for see any problems with this like this but has anyone else had problems with springs creeping over the front of a guide rod? That problem was causing the front of the guide rod to not line up properly and the rear of the guide rod was dropping from the 2nd step on the barrel lug to the first and that was the cause of the failure to go to full battery. Since I did this modification I have yet to have a problem. Either way I could always go back to the original guide rod and spring I just figured might as well find a way to fix a problem first.

**toml** · July 7th, 2012, 11:27 AM

Originally Posted by soccerbum87

It ran perfectly for around 1000 rounds so I decided to upgrade pretty much everything.

Why? Just leave it alone.

**soccerbum87** · July 7th, 2012, 01:24 PM

Because I have 5 other Glock's that are stock and I wanted to see what differences I could notice with different parts. I took it out again today and it ran 300 rounds with no problems with the modified guide rod. So as far as durability I'm pretty sure it will hold up just fine I'm just wondering if anyone else had these issues with a non captive guide rod.

**red dog** · July 7th, 2012, 11:06 PM

like most of us i can see your need to tinker. however when it comes to the glock all i do to mine is change the sights and put in a 3.5 connector. i have 8 of the models ranging from the 9mm to the 10mm. i can pick up anyone of them and shoot it like any of the others. have not felt the need to do anything else to them as they are pretty much perfect to begin with. i have heard to many stories here with glocks and major parts changes and it seems to lead to problems. your guide and spring fix may work for now but reliability may become a issue. if this is a range gun only, i say go ahead and play. on the other hand if we are talking a carry piece i would return it back to the way it was intended to be.

**Neko456** · July 9th, 2012, 08:46 AM

I agree I own 3 Glocks haven't done a damn thing to them. Every time at the range they just shoot and shoot as accurately as I can.

Once you start all those personal modifications you change the way the gun works. I hope you get it back to Glock standards with all those cool a$$ upgrades, good luck.

**soccerbum87** · July 9th, 2012, 04:04 PM

Like I said in my first post I've owned many Glocks and still own many this one I decided to change up in order to see what difference these modifications make. This Glock 17 is not my carry gun (Glock 19 Bone stock) it is a police trade in that already had a bit of use and then I put quite a few rounds through it so I don't see a problem with changing things on it. I also am not messing with parts such as spring weights for the recoil guide or firing pin. As of today I have 400 rounds through it with these upgrades and accuracy has improved without losing any reliability so far. I have yet to have any ftf's or fte's with any of the rounds since the modifications and this has been with many types of ammo I've tried through it from Tula steel case to Corbon PowRBalls.

**dmcdonnell** · July 12th, 2012, 04:00 PM

FYI, The recoil spring dropping into the second step on the barrel lug is normal, it is suppossed to do that. Every time I take my glock(s) apart, sure enough the recoil spring is in the lower lug of the barrel. The lug at the top (closest to the barrel), is for reassembly. Once the gun is assembled and you rack the slide, the spring drops to the correct lug and is in operation mode.

Originally Posted by soccerbum87

So like everything I couldn't keep my perfectly working Glock 17 stock. It ran perfectly for around 1000 rounds so I decided to upgrade pretty much everything. I got a Lonewolf extended threaded barrel, ghost 3.5lb connector, new ejector, streamlight TLR-4 laser light combo, and stainless guide rod with the factory weight spring. With all of these upgrades the only problem I ran into was the guide rod is one of the quick change spring ones and the spring on it was creeping over the end screw which was keeping the slide from coming to full battery. Luckily I noticed this at home before I took it to the range. So I fashioned a bushing out of a small washer, this washer fits over the guide rod but not over the head of the screw and it happens to fit perfectly in the front of the slide where the spring would normally press into. I then took it to the range and she ran perfectly without any problems with 200 rounds. I don't for see any problems with this like this but has anyone else had problems with springs creeping over the front of a guide rod? That problem was causing the front of the guide rod to not line up properly and the rear of the guide rod was dropping from the 2nd step on the barrel lug to the first and that was the cause of the failure to go to full battery. Since I did this modification I have yet to have a problem. Either way I could always go back to the original guide rod and spring I just figured might as well find a way to fix a problem first.