sights

[Murray]

Since im still new at all this was wondering if someone can tell me what im doing wrong...i thought when looking down your sites you want the tops of the front and rear sights to line up....when i shoot that way, I consistantly shoot low (shooting a sig P229) attached is a sketch of how i have to site in to shoot where im aiming (its appoximate dwg)....any help is appreciated and hope this makes sense

[PisnNapalm]

Alot of pistols have a dot on the front sight. You cover your target with the dot while lining up the tops of the rear and front sights.

My Taurus 24/7 Pro has the Heine "Straight Eights" sights. I kept shooting low because I has holding my target over the front sight rather than covering the target with the dot.

I hope that made sense.

[Murray]

makes sense and I am pretty sure that is what i was doing but was shooting low...a friend of mine was shooting it too and he was also shooting low...

[Lycanthrope]

The top of the rear sight should line up with the top of the front sight.

You can adjust the sights so the bullet impacts just over the front sight blade. (6 O'clock hold).....or you can set the sights so the impact is on the dot. The first option tends to be more precise and gives a better field of view.

If the sights are not adjustable, you can file the front sight down a bit or get a shorter front sight.


Lycandidyoushootitfromsandbags?thrope

[synergy]

The Sigs will shoot with a 12 o'clock hold.

That means if you want to shoot in the center of a circle (bullseye) the TOP EDGE of the front and rear sights should be going right across the circle at it's widest point.

The dot is just there to aid in your ability to find the sight....hence, why TARGET SIGHTS, are plain black...where all you have to look at is sharp edges.

I don't agree with the use of a 6 O'clock hold.....to me, if a bullet is hitting above where your holding your sights...it means the plane which the sights are aligned on, and the trajectory of the bullet intersect....like how a scopes "zero" works. Once you go out past that first "zero" point, your POI rises over your POA. Essentially, you're bullet climbs higher and higher over your sights the further out you shoot....until the bullet drops back down across that plane again.

If you have a gun that shoots just above your sights at 7 yards...it'll be almost 3" high at 25 yards.

So, say you hold at the bottom of a 1" bullseye at 7 yards....where do you hold on a 2" bullseye? How about at 10 yards....where do you hold on a 2" circle, or a 3" circle?

Thus, to eliminate all of that crap, if you shoot with a 12 O'Clock hold, where the sight plane runs parallel, just about .2" over the bullets trajectory (for any reasonable pistol distance)...then if you hold right on top of what you want to hit, you'll always be within .2" of it. This works out well if you want to hit something besides circles on paper....

It's not like I work for Bomars, or Trijicon....but unless someone can show me how I've been mislead...I fail to see the advantage to the 6 O'Clock hold.



To the OP....unless your grouping 5 or more shots in one ragged hole at 7 yards....and that tight ragged hole is consistently off by whatever degree....I'd bet the off center hits are shooter induced. Next time your at the range, have the best shooter there put 5 rounds through it.

[Longshot]

I was noticing the same thing with my Sig 229 in .40, I have been finding that the main reason I feel I have been shooting low has been because of flinching. What I have been noticing is, the first two clips I run through when I get to the range seem to go where I want them to, after that I start to flinch more and more and all of my shots start going low. The more I have been shooting the better its been. Thats just me though.

Hope it helps some.

[synergy]

Since im still new at all this was wondering if someone can tell me what im doing wrong...

This would be money well spent for you then...this really helps you get started down the right path...

http://www.tacticalresponsegear.com/...d83eee03d8249d

also this is a great reference book...

http://www.tacticalresponsegear.com/...d83eee03d8249d

Were you to really take the info in that DVD and book to heart...with a little range time here and there...you can bring your shooting a long way.

[Hoootie]

I too had alot of problems shooting my Sig Sauer accurately. I have a P226, and I believe the trigger pull for my gun was the culprit. I don't know if this is usually the case, but for my gun I need to put alot of focus into squeezing the trigger rather than pulling it. I have not had this problem with other pistols I have fired, but I was pulling my aim off alot with my sig. I finally have gotten this under control, but anyone who trys my firearm has a great deal of difficulty with it. So my suggestion is to practice your trigger pull. Hope this helps.

[Xringshooter]

The six o'clock hold is from Bullseye shooting (which many, many people still do) where you are shooting a fixed distance every time and want the best accuracy possible. You want to get all you shots as perfectly centered as possible in the 10 ring. To use the six o'clock you adjust your sights so that when you align your sights vertically and have the front sight centered in the rear sight with with the center of the front sight at the point that is the exact point on the outside of the center ring (10 ring) at the six o'clock position the bullet will hit exactly dead center of the target. The six o'clock is used to set a very precise point at a set distance.

That said, you need to adjust your sights for the style of shooting you do or anticipate doing. If the primary use is personal protection then set your sights accordingly.

Example, when shooting PPC you normally use 3 or 4 position sights and adjust them for each distance you shoot. At the long range (50 Yds) you adjust the sights using the shoulder/neck area of the B-27 target to get your gun to drop bullets into the X ring (basically you're aiming high and the bullets POI is well below your POA).

So, the six o'clock is good for some uses, the 12 o'clock is good for some uses, and other sight pictures are good for other uses. Pick the one that best suits your shooting needs/style.

[Lycanthrope]

The Sigs will shoot with a 12 o'clock hold.

That means if you want to shoot in the center of a circle (bullseye) the TOP EDGE of the front and rear sights should be going right across the circle at it's widest point.

The dot is just there to aid in your ability to find the sight....hence, why TARGET SIGHTS, are plain black...where all you have to look at is sharp edges.

I don't agree with the use of a 6 O'clock hold.....to me, if a bullet is hitting above where your holding your sights...it means the plane which the sights are aligned on, and the trajectory of the bullet intersect....like how a scopes "zero" works. Once you go out past that first "zero" point, your POI rises over your POA. Essentially, you're bullet climbs higher and higher over your sights the further out you shoot....until the bullet drops back down across that plane again.

If you have a gun that shoots just above your sights at 7 yards...it'll be almost 3" high at 25 yards.

So, say you hold at the bottom of a 1" bullseye at 7 yards....where do you hold on a 2" bullseye? How about at 10 yards....where do you hold on a 2" circle, or a 3" circle?

Thus, to eliminate all of that crap, if you shoot with a 12 O'Clock hold, where the sight plane runs parallel, just about .2" over the bullets trajectory (for any reasonable pistol distance)...then if you hold right on top of what you want to hit, you'll always be within .2" of it. This works out well if you want to hit something besides circles on paper....

It's not like I work for Bomars, or Trijicon....but unless someone can show me how I've been mislead...I fail to see the advantage to the 6 O'Clock hold.

Synergy, I'm getting the feeling you googled "6 O'clock hold".

I'm using the term "6 O'clock hold" in terms of a very small bullseye (like an inch).....not a large one where you sight along the bottom of the larger target such as in long range CMP competition and Bullseye events. I'm not saying to use the bottom of a man to hit center of mass. Probably a poor choice of terms for me.

The bullet should always impact just on top of the front sight blade for the shooter.......not in the middle of the sight blade (on the dot). At longer ranges the blade will cover the target (you should be aiming for a small POINT, even on man sized targets)....by using the top of the front blade you can align the point of impact with the center of the blade itself, giving you the ability to shoot as tight as you can focus.

While all sights are above the bore axis and the bullet will ALWAYS have arc, an extra tenth of an inch is not going to be noticeable. The distance from the center of the sight blade to the top of the blade is often less than a tenth of an inch.....so instead of .20 inches above the bore you have .21.

On the other hand, AR15's are used quite well in CQB environments with a sighting sytem that is measured in INCHES above the bore...........

Lycanneedstobemoredescriptiguessthrope