Laminate Wood Finishing

[knight0334]

What do you all use to seal and finish laminate stocks?

I'm about to start on my winter project, a set of Gunstocks Inc laminates for one of my Handi's. I still have to fit, contour to my liking, sand, and whisker them yet.

I do not want to alter the coloring. In the past I've used Ace/TruValue Tung Oil Finish for a high gloss sheen. But that can give it an orange'y - red tone, meant more for darker woods. I plan to copper-nickel-silver plate the gun, so a orange/red tone would mess with the theme. I want a high gloss sheen again for this set too.

[Lycanthrope]

I've done a couple with Tru Oil.

http://forum.pafoa.org/general-2/102...fle-stock.html

It's easy to repair and redo with some steel wool and a couple coats, but it will yellow over time if the layers are thick. I think it would be good for a matte finish, though.

Next time, I'll go poly. I had to repair a poly stock once and had no trouble just rubbing it in with my thumb without streaking....but you need to have it sanded perfectly smooth. You could also have an auto shop gun it for you.

Lycanlikesthrelaminatesthrope

[knight0334]

I've done a couple with Tru Oil.

http://forum.pafoa.org/general-2/102...fle-stock.html

It's easy to repair and redo with some steel wool and a couple coats, but it will yellow over time if the layers are thick. I think it would be good for a matte finish, though.

Next time, I'll go poly. I had to repair a poly stock once and had no trouble just rubbing it in with my thumb without streaking....but you need to have it sanded perfectly smooth. You could also have an auto shop gun it for you.

Lycanlikesthrelaminatesthrope

That laminate has the wet high gloss look I'm after. Very nice work by the way.

You said it yellow's some when applied thick? How bad?

I reeeeeally want to keep a silver/black coloring with the wood if I can. I've seen other folks do it on other sites, but they wouldn't give details on what they used. I've seen polyurethane turn yellow-orange too when applied thick.

[Lycanthrope]

That laminate has the wet high gloss look I'm after. Very nice work by the way.

You said it yellow's some when applied thick? How bad?

I reeeeeally want to keep a silver/black coloring with the wood if I can. I've seen other folks do it on other sites, but they wouldn't give details on what they used. I've seen polyurethane turn yellow-orange too when applied thick.

It was fine for a couple years, but after exposure it took away the nice silver sheen. I still think I'd get a good automotive poly next time.

Lycandecisionsthrope

[WPNFXER]

Gun Saver Custom Oil from Brownells is what i have used for the past 11 yrs.
Avail. in Gloss (209-100-014) or Satin (209-101-014).
I have purchased the Gloss but I primarily use the Satin. 8-10 coats 0000 steel wooled in between.
If one of my customers want a high gloss I will spray on 12 to 15 Coats and then buff it white compound and a very soft wheel.
Leaves a very durable and Hard finish. I have not seen any discoloration on any of my stocks like you see with Tru-oil.

For most of my hunting stocks I will just use Tung oil and once dry wax it for weather protection. If the stock gets dinged up real bad hunting I can repair the area and reapply to match without redoing the whole stock.

[sincitynut]

Try this

How To Finish Your Unfinished Stock

Laminates

Start with the 120-grit sandpaper. Sanding with the grain, remove all rough wood and blemishes in your stock. Repeat this process with the 150 grit removing the 120 grit scratch pattern. Again, repeat this process with the 180 grit removing the 150 grit scratch pattern.

Using a wet soft rag, wet the exterior of the stock with water. With this step, you must take caution not to snag the wood with your rag. Let air-dry. This process will cause the fibers in the wood to stand up (commonly called "whiskering").

Using 320 grit paper, again sand the stock with the grain, removing fibers that were created by the whiskering process.

If your stock has a recoil pad, it should be removed at this point. If you prefer, you can leave the pad on the stock, taping off the rubber section, and you can finish the plastic backer plate along with the rest of the stock. If your stock has a buttplate, leave attached and you can finish the plate along with the rest of the stock.

Using a piece of wire, hang your stock in a dust free area, where the center of the stock is even with your shoulders, or a height that insures you can easily spray all areas of the stock.

Spray a heavy coat of Polyurethane Satin Finish. (First read directions on can.) During this step, runs in the finish are not an issue. However, this is good opportunity to practice an even coat of finish, which will be required for the final coat.

Allow 15 to 20 minutes for finish to soak into material, and repeat step 6.

Allow stock to dry for 12 hours.

Repeat step 6, and while stock is still wet, wet sand stock with 320 grit sandpaper. This process is meant to combine the dust from the stock with the finish, assisting in filling the pores of the wood. Continue this process until pores of wood are filled. You may have to spray additional coats if finish becomes too dry.

Allow stock to dry for 12 hours.

Using the 320 grit sandpaper, sand stock to a smooth finish. If you discover open pores in the wood, repeat step 9 and 10.

Using a soft brush, clear all the dust from the inletting area. Using the tack cloth, wipe debris from the stock. Note: If you have compressed air, this is helpful for removing dust from the inletting and the surface of the stock.

Using Polyurethane Finish spray the stock with a final finish coat.

Allow 24 hours to dry, remove tape, or reinstall recoil pad.
Note: Using Vaseline on the phillips screwdriver when removing the recoil pad will assist in not damaging your pad while removing it and reinstalling it.

[knight0334]

Thanks for the reply. I do most those already, starting at 120grit but I keep going down to about 1000-2000grit. I've never done a laminate stock though.

Here is one of my samples.