SIG 220 or Springfield Loaded Operator 1911

**Mity2** · January 21st, 2012, 11:26 AM

I still say MC Op. I mean 220 is nice gun and all, but to me, Sig's ergonomics are all wrong, trigger is too far, and its Aluminum frame.
Now, if your going to carry it alot, then 220 may be a good choice. But then You can get LW Operator for that...

I'm carrying Stainless full size 1911 right now. it can be done comfortably. Its all in the holster...

Sparxfly72, MC operator is like $1400. Its very affordable gun, considering what it is...

**RHGregory3** · January 21st, 2012, 12:51 PM

I got mine new for $1250 last year - a TRP operator can be had for about $1400 new in local shops. (when they get one)

I actually put a deposit down on a second one (used) that I ended up transferring to something else, but $900 was a good price to find one for used.

Out of 50 automatic pistols I've owned, it's the most accurate. It feeds anything. It has never had a failure. if it ever does, it will be taken care of no questions asked. Dawson trijicons are great sights. The list goes on.

**sprrdhawk44** · January 21st, 2012, 01:46 PM

I'd say go for the Springer. Unless of course you're not set on the Springer, and would prefer to get A LOT more gun for just about the same money.

**Sparxfly72** · January 21st, 2012, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by Mity2

Sparxfly72, MC operator is like $1400. Its very affordable gun, considering what it is...

I'm aware of the price, that's why I said what I said. If someone can afford to spend $1400 for a handgun, buying both probably isn't a problem for him.

**SCBaldr** · January 21st, 2012, 08:05 PM

I'd go for the Sig 220. Less finicky when in the field than a 1911. I know, I carried a Sig 1911 and later a Sig P220 in the park service. The 1911 never failed me and it was easier to shoot more accurately, but it required much more upkeep and inspection than the P220 which gave similar service.

Take the Extra $650 you save and buy 2000 rounds of Ammo from Aimsurplus.com and shoot the living hell out of it. Just make sure you lube the frame rails first. I've seen a lot of first time Sig owners run their rails dry and then wonder why they're guns are loosening up excessively.

**Guns N'at** · January 21st, 2012, 09:30 PM

Originally Posted by SCBaldr

I've seen a lot of first time Sig owners run their rails dry and then wonder why they're guns are loosening up excessively.

I can't say this is a 'fix' for every situation, but my experience shows that a new take-down lever can tighten things up at least for awhile... Here's how. During use, the front of the welded on barrel lug and TD lever pin by their very nature, make contact (what limits forward movement/ in battery) and the lug will show a shallow groove peened across the lug for this contact, and the pin will show some flattening. replacing the pin helps take out one bit of the problem, and it would seem a little weld buildup, and finishing would take care of the rest. One issue that may contribute to acceleration of this peening, is use of recoil springs in excess of factory recommended... Sure, it retards rear slide velocity, but adds forward energy and with it extra battering of the above mentioned interface.

Nice that even when they rattle like a castanet, the pistols remain very accurate by how the lockup is achieved not dependent on rail tightness. I'm sure you know all/most of this; I add the details as a help for folks who may not.