Bulging .45??

[pgf102]

I just finished a batch of .45 reloads using a RCBS chucker with RCBS dies, 230 GR Hornady XTP bullets. They have a bulge near the bottom that measures 0.473" where the rest of the casing is 0.469".
I've researched other threads on buldging, but my problem is that these shells will not chamber. I tried them in a S&W 1911PD and an XD.
So what stage of the process am I messing up? Any fixes for this?
Sorry if this is an old question but I couldn't find any sources for the remedy when the cartridge is too big to chamber.
Paul

[stevew58]

Either your sizing die is not setup properly, meaning it is not down far enough to reach the bottom of the case. The other possibility is that you are short stroking the press.The end result will be the same, the bottom/web of the case is not being touched by the die resulting in a case that not completely sized.

[pgf102]

Thank you much for your reply.
That sounds like it may be the culprit. I'm new to reloading this caliber and I thought I had the directions understood pretty well, but I found that the RCBS instructions not all that great But I will try your idea.
Thanks again
Paul

[Flash]

With the ram is at the top of the stroke, adjust the die in the press so that the die is in full contact with the shell-holder.

Then, be sure to run the ram full-stroke when resizing/depriming.

Flash

[hornady]

Up to you but I never adjust carbide die against the shell holder. I turn them down onto the shell holder, then back off a ¼ turn. Carbide inserts are brittle and you can chip them if not careful.

[Guns N'at]

I just finished a batch of .45 reloads using a RCBS chucker with RCBS dies, 230 GR Hornady XTP bullets. They have a bulge near the bottom that measures 0.473" where the rest of the casing is 0.469".
I've researched other threads on buldging, but my problem is that these shells will not chamber. I tried them in a S&W 1911PD and an XD.
So what stage of the process am I messing up? Any fixes for this?
Sorry if this is an old question but I couldn't find any sources for the remedy when the cartridge is too big to chamber.
Paul

Paul,

I'm adding this just to make sure there is no confusion about sizing, even when done 'right'. Even with a fully sized case, sized as much as the die will allow, you will still have a small portion of the case near the top of the extractor groove that will be right around .473"... This is perfectly normal, because this area near the web of the case (its strongest part) will not change unless subjected to pressures way above normal, or possibly depending on the variables really lousy case support, exacerbated by high pressure. My Dillon .45 ACP sizer die even when used to its max, leaves a portion about .075"-.100" above the top of the extractor groove untouched, and again perfectly normal.

While on the topic, be careful not to over "crimp" the rounds... All you want to do is remove belling with the taper crimp die, and allow friction to tightly retain the bullet. Obviously if loading for .45 Auto Rim, using a roll crimp die is OK, but even them a taper crimp die can cover most all situations you might run into. Good luck.

[pgf102]

Thanks everyone for your help in this matter.
After doing more research and a suggestion on another forum to double check my measurements (or use a different caliper- which I did) the cartridges are bulging at the crimp (0.480) then tapers down to 0.468 then bulges out again at 0.480. So I think all of your responses are correct in as far as the original sizing needs to be adjusted as well as the seating and crimping. So it's back to the workbench for me and start over.
Thanks again.

[pgf102]

OK, so I'm starting a new batch,but decided to build a few dummy bullets (without primers or powder) to check each step for fit in my 1911.
I followed the suggestions with the sizer die and the casings fit well in the gun.
I modified my expander settings because I think I was way over belling before. This time they are belled just a little, enough to just hold the bullet.
The seating/crimp die was next and I readjusted this as well. I believe I had way too much crimp before as well. Anyway, I seated the bullet to match the two different examples of commercial cartridges I have.
Now, when I put them in the barrel they fit much better than my first batch but they are still a little tight compared to my store bought shells. They load and eject OK when I manually work the slide.
I'm just wondering why my commercial ones (Hornady and Winchester) just slip in and out of the barrel and mine are a title sticky yet?
Should I go and work up some with the primers and powder or am I still not doing something right here?
Thanks

[Guns N'at]

Is the bullet seated concentrically with the case?... Having a bullet seated off center, with a bulge on one side may be something to look for. Assuming the die is correctly adjusted, and soundly built, not much more to look at than:

-Making sure belling is fully removed/case mouth properly 'crimped' and not too much to cause bulging or collapse.

-That the brass is not out of spec (too thick), has burrs or some other issue hanging them up.

-That the bullets are what diameter they should be.

- That proper OAL for your pistol is achieved, and not running into the leade. The TC shape of the Hornady Bullet will have to have a shorter OAL than say a GI style round using a traditional 230 grain FMJ RN bullet. This point is very clear for my .45 Auto pistols... My SIG P220 can have HP bullets seated much further out (longer) and still function/chamber than my GI spec 1911A1. Just the nature of the beast where my P220 has a long Leade; my 1911A1 nearly none and trying to chamber the SIG rounds in the 1911 will lock it up.

I really like to seat and crimp in two steps, and not sure if you are doing this or not. Never hurts to outside chamfer the mouths either. Good luck, and you'll lick this.

[pgf102]

I am not seating and crimping in two steps. The RCBS die does it in one after it is set up. I'm not sure how to get the seat plug set down far enough without having the die crimp the casing at the same time. The plug has a spacer/ lock nut on it so aye if I removed it and screwed it all the way down I could get it to seat without crimping at the same time.
I did order a Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die for this caliber so maybe that will help in the process.
How do you chamfer the outside?