H&R 622 revolver question

**alaska** · December 29th, 2011, 12:12 PM

I just picked up a H&R 622 revolver, I think it was made in 1972 by checking the ser. no. on line (AJ74XXX) It's in pretty good shape for it's age,doesn't look like it's been shot much. My question is how tight should the lock up be? When the gun is at battery (trigger back, hammer down) there is approx. 1/16" play if you try to rotate the cylinder back anf forth. Is this normal? I saw the locking piece for sale online, is it worth trying to change this part? how big of a job would it be? Thanks

**knight0334** · December 29th, 2011, 12:29 PM

Are you having issues with accuracy, shaved bullets, or lead spitting out the gap?

Revolvers are always going to have some play, and if the forcing cone has a wide enough "funnel", the more play it can have without critical issues.

My NEF R73(basically same frame as the 622) chambered in .32H&R Mag has about the same amount of play with no issues.

The Cylinder Stop is what really determines most of the lockup. If the notches on the cylinder are too wide, or the cylinder stop is too narrow, or there is excessive play with the stop - you will have more play on the cylinder overall. A replacement part is no guarantee either that it will tighten it up, especially if the replacement part is of the same dimensions.

If you haven't shot it first, I'd make the determination on where it needed changed after putting several rounds through it.

**32 Magnum** · December 31st, 2011, 12:02 PM

H&R pre-1986 hand guns achieve the "ultimate" lock-up only when the trigger is pulled full stroke. Cock your 622, pull the trigger full stroke while letting the hammer down with your thumb (so as to NOT ding up the cylinder face) - keeping the trigger pulled all the way back - check for end shake and side to side wobble - this is the condition of the barrel and cylinder alignment that the bullet sees upon being fired. Unless badly worn or broken - the lock-up will be very tight. Release the trigger and it returns to a relaxed condition.
There are some basic differences between the later NEF R series and the earlier 622. The 622 derives from the Model 1904, while the R series derives from the "800 series" revolvers designed in the 1980s.

**alaska** · January 2nd, 2012, 10:41 AM

Thanks for the info 32 Magnum, my cylinder still has quite a bit of wobble even with the trigger all the way back and the hammer down, the part that lcoks the cylinder looks a little chewed up, that part is available online, they list two types one with one pin and one with two pins, I would like to attempt changing the locking part, but it requires driving out the pins that hold the trigger guard in place, are the pins easy to remove? I would like to get the gun back into spec. if possible, do you know anyone experienced working on this gun?
Thanks

**32 Magnum** · January 2nd, 2012, 01:17 PM

Alaska,
You're welcome glad to help out.
Sounds like your cylinder "bolt" is chewed up. Try these guys for help or for work on your 622 - they claim to work on these old guns all the time:

http://stonechimneytrading.com

I've had some communication with them (on another site) concerning H&R's older firearms. The service they offer seems to be quite reasonable in price.
Give 'em a call and let us know how you make out.