Decisions, Decisions... Concerning my old and venerable P239.

**SCBaldr** · September 4th, 2011, 04:37 PM

So I was working as an RSO at Wicen's several days ago and I shot a Sig with the DAK trigger. I was already familiar with the trigger system as I went through the armorers' course last year. Shooting is believing as it were. his was a P239 DAK in .357 Sig. So then I really wanted to convert my trusty old P239 standard in .40 (which just received a clean bill of health from a conversation with a factory gunsmith at Sig Sauer. More on that later.) to a DAK trigger system with a .357 barrel.

So I went online to see if I could find the right parts. I ended up on Sig Sauer's website, on the FAQ page "Can my Sig Sauer be converted to a DAK trigger?" It said to call the factory and give them the serial number and the'll say for sure whether your gun can be converted. So I got on the horn with the CS department, explained myself and read the CSR the serial number. My P239 is too old to be converted. Bummer.

About a week before this, I pulled the gun out of the safe and noticed that there seemed to be more free-play between the frame and slide than I remembered. So I took the slide off the frame and inspected the frame rails. Most of the anodizing was still intact if a bit glossy here and there. Ok still protected. I was a little worried so I called the factory and asked to speak with a gunsmith. After a bit of convincing, I got on the horn with a gunsmith and he had me measure all of the parts at different locations with a caliper. he then had me measure the side-to-side and up-to-down free-play of the slide to frame fit. He asked what the condition of the rails was, so I told him shiny black. He took a look in his book-o-allowable tolerances and told me everything was A-OK.

So I took it to the range and shot 50 rounds through it. As you'd expect from an older Sig Sauer, it still shoots sub 2" groups from a rest with 180 gr. federal champion. Good-to-go... But it still can't be converted. So now, decisions, decisions. I'd really like to be able to do the conversion, but I can't so now I'm thinking I'll sell in the neighborhood of around $550 considering the age, condition and number of rounds I've put through it. and just spend another $200 on a DAK model in .40 or .357 new.

Any thoughts? Anyone willing to buy from me at that price?

**Rex Havoc** · September 4th, 2011, 05:29 PM

That seems to be about what I'm seeing them for. I just got rid of mine for roughly that in cash and trade. If you wind up with another DA/SA I have a DAK kit sitting in the parts drawer.

**SCBaldr** · September 4th, 2011, 05:36 PM

Right, I've seen ones with fewer rounds and less wear and tare for around $600-$640. But this one has been used, there are multiple, little nicks in the frame and like I said, the fit isn't quite as tight as it used to be. Hence $550. If someone were to offer me $525 in cash, I'd probably take it.

As for the DAK kit you have, I very much doubt that I will be able to find a P239 DAK in .357 at any price. So I will likely just buy the one off Buds for $717 brand new with the cash from this one. So when that happens, I guess I'll be PMing.

**SCBaldr** · September 4th, 2011, 09:01 PM

Maybe I should Cerakote it. Clean up some of the nicks and put a thick layer of Cerakote inside the frame rails to try and tighten it up a bit. I'd have to be careful not to remove any anodizing from the rails though. I think the Cerakote should be hard enough to act like the anodizing did and last for at least another few thousand rounds.

Has anybody tried this?

**Rex Havoc** · September 4th, 2011, 09:10 PM

I haven't. You may want to see what Todd over at Customized Creationz can do with it. http://www.customizedcreationz.com/home.html

I haven't sent it yet but I'm going to send him my 228 for a refinish and a lower for engraving.

**Brian Ahearn** · September 5th, 2011, 04:33 PM

I cerakoted my 220 and my p-6 sigs you can't go wrong with it.

**CHEMICAL** · September 5th, 2011, 05:20 PM

Uh....is your frame steel or something? If it's aluminum I fail to see why removing anodizing would be an issue. If you look at the difference in frames for the convertible ones as opposed to the non convertible ones you'll see that the only issue is the shape of the hole. maybe you can have a gunsmith, or yourself, cut it to the right dimensions? Scratch that...looks like a sizable difference:

http://www.ak47.net/forums/t_5_14/89683_.html&page=1

**SCBaldr** · September 5th, 2011, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by Brian Ahearn

I cerakoted my 220 and my p-6 sigs you can't go wrong with it.

I agree, the finish quality and durabilty on the Cerakote is really good. I just want to know what the Cerakoted rails look like after 500 rounds or so. If anybody has photos that would help a bunch.

Though, it may all be a moot point. I had a co-worker offer me $550 for it when I let him take a look at it. I said that I would give it a think but that I was likely to take that offer. I'm thinking its probably as well as I'm likely to do on that gun. Its hardly as if it owes me anything.