Single action help needed, hammer wont fall

**ROCK-IT3** · July 27th, 2012, 10:20 PM

I recently picked up an Italian clone of a Colt SAA, made by ASM, which is no longer in business. I have read that it is a fairly accurate reproduction of the Colt. It has the three pin arrangement, with 4 clicks to fully cock it.

Last night I was practicing drawing and cocking it, and then lowering the hammer by hand. All of a sudden, after cocking it, the hammer would not drop, it stayed fully cocked. After a few minutes of fiddling with it, it finally dropped. I decide to try it again, since I wanted to know if would happen again. It would be terribly sucky if it happened at the range with a live round under the hammer. I cocked it again, it seemed to cock roughly, and again it would not drop. This time would not drop even after fiddling and gentle banging. I wound up having to take it apart.

It appears to me that the "hand" is very rough and worn. I am thinking that the hand is getting hung up in the frame at some point. The trigger sear definitely releases from the hammer notch, I can feel that happen, but the hammer doesn't fall. I took some pictures, does this look like excessive wear? Does it need to be replaced? Does it need to go to a smith to be checked or repaired? I re-assembled it to a point without the hand, and it seemed like the hammer would drop, although it was tough to tell, because the hand seems to keep the hammer from being over-cocked.

Please share your knowledge with me about what might be wrong. Thanks.

**bob308** · July 28th, 2012, 12:39 AM

looks like the hand is damaged. that kind of damage happens when the pistol is fanned. i would also check the bolt and bolt knoches. they take a beating when fanning.

another thing to watch for is and undersize cylinder pin and the sleave in the cylinder. when lose they let the cylinder flop around and can cause the same kind of damage.

if you lived closer i would hwlp you out.

**ROCK-IT3** · July 29th, 2012, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by bob308

looks like the hand is damaged. that kind of damage happens when the pistol is fanned. i would also check the bolt and bolt knoches. they take a beating when fanning.

another thing to watch for is and undersize cylinder pin and the sleave in the cylinder. when lose they let the cylinder flop around and can cause the same kind of damage.

if you lived closer i would hwlp you out.

Thanks for the reply, bob308.

I've never fanned the action, but I just purchased this used, so who knows. The condition of everything except the hand suggests it was lightly used.

I don't see any kind of rough wear on the bolt like what is on the hand. The cylinder pin is a decent fit, and the sleeve is also a decent fit in the cylinder. The outside diameter of the sleeve is smooth and free of burrs, nicks, scratches, etc. The inside of the cylinder looks a bit rough, but the sleeve fits it nicely with no perceptible play, and no roughness when turning. It locks up pretty nicely when cocked, too.

I can get a new hand and bolt from VTI, would these need to be fitted by a gunsmith? If so, is it advisable to have an "action job" done at the same time? What is the approximate cost of an action job? I don't intend on become a cowboy action shooter, I just bought it for fun and nostalgia, and to have a cowboy gun.

**bob308** · July 29th, 2012, 09:01 PM

another option is it could have been bad from the factory. one that sliped through. if you are a handy person you mite be able to fit it. some times they go right in. if it goes in and works ok. for an action job. just take off the grips remove hammer spring and put a pice of leather about 1/8" thick between the spring and gripframe. it does wonders for the action. i have done it to all my single actions even the cap and ball guns.

**ROCK-IT3** · August 3rd, 2012, 06:48 PM

So I purchased a new hand from VTI, polished it a bit (no material removed, just smoothed the sides), and installed it. It works better, the stub fits the hole in the hammer better, and the hammer does drop when the trigger is pulled, but it does not cock consistently. Sometimes it hangs up between the second and third click, and will not continue to cock. If I allow the hammer to move forward a bit, then it will continue to fully cock. Sometimes it seems to hang up a bit just before the fourth click. I think this is because the cylinder bolt is trying to engage the cylinder to soon, and dragging on the cylinder a bit. That seems like a timing issue, or a bolt adjustment issue.

So, can anyone recommend a gunsmith in eastern PA who would be competent with repairing/modifying cowboy guns. I can replace parts, but I don't want to try to fix timing issues. That's for a pro. I did find some smiths online, in different states, but if I can find someone within driving distance, I'd prefer that.

**brian** · August 3rd, 2012, 07:26 PM

encks gun barn near newmanstown. cowboy action is what they do.

**ROCK-IT3** · August 3rd, 2012, 07:59 PM

Originally Posted by brian

encks gun barn near newmanstown. cowboy action is what they do.

Is it! Thanks Brian, I will give them a call. If you trust them, I'm sure the know what they're doing.

(sorry, it won't let me rep you)

**billj139** · March 29th, 2013, 11:30 PM

Your hammer might be moving too far back allowing the bottom of the hammer to jam over the top of the hammer spring. I seem to remember a gunsmith book suggesting soldering a thin shim to the frame just behind the hammer to prevent it from moving back too far (over rotating). You could even epoxy a piece of aluminum can in this position.