High Power Question

[phillietimothy]

Hello all, I have been bitten by the high power bug. I will be zeroing a RRA NM A2, I would like input on my strategy please. First, the rear elevation wheel has no markings, the front sight is the NM with the bevel which require full revolutions. Okay, here we go - I will bottom out the rear sight and make sure the front sight base is flush. I will shoot at the shortest distance the rifle will be used at 25 -50 yards, adjust front sight (using full revolutions)until POA = POI. This will be my baseline. I will then zero for 200,300, and 600 using the rear elevation wheel only. I will record my comeups from my baseline for 200,300, and 600. I realize I will have to fine tune for standing,sitting, and prone. Is this a workable plan? I neglected to mention - I will center the windage on my initial zero and adjust as necessary. Please advise, thanks for your help and any suggestions.

Tim

[NoMoreOp4]

Hello all, I have been bitten by the high power bug. I will be zeroing a RRA NM A2, I would like input on my strategy please. First, the rear elevation wheel has no markings, the front sight is the NM with the bevel which require full revolutions. Okay, here we go - I will bottom out the rear sight and make sure the front sight base is flush. I will shoot at the shortest distance the rifle will be used at 25 -50 yards, adjust front sight (using full revolutions)until POA = POI. This will be my baseline. I will then zero for 200,300, and 600 using the rear elevation wheel only. I will record my comeups from my baseline for 200,300, and 600. I realize I will have to fine tune for standing,sitting, and prone. Is this a workable plan? I neglected to mention - I will center the windage on my initial zero and adjust as necessary. Please advise, thanks for your help and any suggestions.

Tim

Tim,

It sounds like you have a good plan there. I tried to search for similar information elsewhere but didn't come up with anything that you hadn't. If you do a google search for "zeroing RRA NM A2" you will get a lot of hits on the topic. You sound like you are not new to zeroing guns, but just in case, make sure to keep in mind the adjustment "clicks" will have different effects depending on the distance! (when I was new I made that mistake... don't tell anyone!)

[Hawk]

I set my rear elevation (1/4 MOA per click on mine) 5 clicks up from bottom and adjust the front sight for elevation to put them in the 10 ring, using a Navy hold on a SR target at 200 (using the ammo I use at the 200 yard line). I then fine tune it using the rear elevation when shooting my 2 sighter's. At 300 I have a standard come-up of (6 more clicks) and then adjust during my 2 sighter's. We don't have a local 600 yard range. I shoot Sierra 60 gn Varminters over 24 gns of H335 at both the 200 & 300.

IIRC, the front sight A2 post is 1 1/4 MOA per detent.

[ARShuter]

I set my rear elevation (1/4 MOA per click on mine) 5 clicks up from bottom and adjust the front sight for elevation to put them in the 10 ring, using a Navy hold on a SR target at 200 (using the ammo I use at the 200 yard line). I then fine tune it using the rear elevation when shooting my 2 sighter's. At 300 I have a standard come-up of (6 more clicks) and then adjust during my 2 sighter's. We don't have a local 600 yard range. I shoot Sierra 60 gn Varminters over 24 gns of H335 at both the 200 & 300.

IIRC, the front sight A2 post is 1 1/4 MOA per detent.

Hawk got it right. I didn't the same Then took 3 different colors of nail polish to mark the sight. IIRC my 600 was 54 clicks from the bottom, using 80 SMK's over 24.5 grs of RE15 or Varget. I started each setting from the bottom in case some thing strange happened. Under stress at a points match or a perry it's easy to forget. Get Jim Owens books they are worth thier weight in gold. HTH

[Rosco the Iroc]

You don't necessarily need to start with the front sight all the way down.
I have my RRA with 1/2 min rear sights set to have 3 clicks up at 200. That way you have somewhere to go when it's a "light's down sights down" cond. Conversely you don't want to be 15 up and run out of clicks plus it can wobble a slight bit as you get in the high click count.
My 300yd is 10 clicks using MK262 Mod1 or Black hill Gr match.

Of course pick a no wind day to get your mech no wind zero. For ease of memory and quick match setting note all zeros from the basement.

[Up In Arms Designs, Inc]

It is all here:

http://www.odcmp.org/0607/default.as...U_SIGHTADJ_MOA

http://odcmp.com/Competitions/USAMU/ShootingTips.htm

[phillietimothy]

Thanks to all who chimed in. I appreciate your assistance. To NoMoreOp4, yes I will keep in mind that the clicks have different values in inches at different yardages. To Hawk, I am using the NM front sight which has the bevel so it has to be adjusted in full revolutions. This is 5MOA I've been told, that means 1 full revolution will be 10" at 200 yards. After my initial sight in at 25 - 50 yards, I hope I won't have to touch the front sight again. I will be starting off with Black Hills 77gr initially, I may reload as I gain experience. To Rosco the Iroc. I am starting with the sight all the way down because my initial sight in will be at 25 - 50 yards. This way, I will still have clicks below 200 yards for reduced range courses as well "lights down, sights down" cond. To ARShuter, great tip about marking sights. I am currently using a loaner so I will record my come-ups from the bottom in a small notepad for 200,300, and 600. 100 for reduced range courses. I will pick up the Owen's books from CMP.
To Up In Arms, Inc. thanks for the links. By the way, how do you single round load for slow-fire stages? Do I need a single round block? What about slam-fires?

[Hawk]

Thanks to all who chimed in. I appreciate your assistance. To NoMoreOp4, yes I will keep in mind that the clicks have different values in inches at different yardages. To Hawk, I am using the NM front sight which has the bevel so it has to be adjusted in full revolutions. This is 5MOA I've been told, that means 1 full revolution will be 10" at 200 yards. After my initial sight in at 25 - 50 yards, I hope I won't have to touch the front sight again. I will be starting off with Black Hills 77gr initially, I may reload as I gain experience. To Rosco the Iroc. I am starting with the sight all the way down because my initial sight in will be at 25 - 50 yards. This way, I will still have clicks below 200 yards for reduced range courses as well "lights down, sights down" cond. To ARShuter, great tip about marking sights. I am currently using a loaner so I will record my come-ups from the bottom in a small notepad for 200,300, and 600. 100 for reduced range courses. I will pick up the Owen's books from CMP.
To Up In Arms, Inc. thanks for the links. By the way, how do you single round load for slow-fire stages? Do I need a single round block? What about slam-fires?

I use to have the NM (beveled front sight post) I dumped it (due to it's adjustment limitations) for a square .070 front post so I could make the 1 1/4 MOA adjustments. I trued up the faces and the top of the post with a file to make sure they had strong edges and then reblued the post.

You can get Jim's books and video's at Jim's web site: www.jarheadtop.com

Most guys I know use the Bob Sled for single loading: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=196189

No need to worry about slam fires on factory ammo. If you do start reloading, just use the proper primers and make sure you seat them properly.

[phillietimothy]

Hawk,

I appreciate your input. I am amazed at how helpful the shooting community is. As I gain more knowledge and experience I will return the favor by being as supportive of new shooters as the community has been to me. Thank you for the Bob Sled info, I also found one at Creedmor (AR 15 .223 Single Round Follower for $16). https://www.creedmoorsports.com/stor...325&quantity=1. The Bob Sled is $40, is there a quality difference? I have the link for Jim's website in my bookmarks, I will order directly from his site. I did some math on the .070 post, it is 12 MOA wide. Do you think a wider post is easier for a new shooter? I will be using a 6' o-clock hold, or is it just a matter of personal preference? Thanks again Hawk.

Tim

[Hawk]

Hawk,

I appreciate your input. I am amazed at how helpful the shooting community is. As I gain more knowledge and experience I will return the favor by being as supportive of new shooters as the community has been to me. Thank you for the Bob Sled info, I also found one at Creedmor (AR 15 .223 Single Round Follower for $16). https://www.creedmoorsports.com/stor...325&quantity=1. The Bob Sled is $40, is there a quality difference? I have the link for Jim's website in my bookmarks, I will order directly from his site. I did some math on the .070 post, it is 12 MOA wide. Do you think a wider post is easier for a new shooter? I will be using a 6' o-clock hold, or is it just a matter of personal preference? Thanks again Hawk.

Tim

AFAIK there is only one Bobsled so where ever you find it the cheapest, buy it. I use a .070 post with a Navy hold. I find it easier to focus on a wider sight. The thinner ones (.050) tend to ghost on me. If you have great eyesight you'll be fine with a .050. 6'o-clock or Navy (center) hold is shooter preference. I shot for 3 years with the 6' o-clock, a year ago I switched to Navy. I prefer the POA = POI with the Navy hold.