686 vs 66

[mrg]

I've decided I "need" a 4" .357. I'm looking at model 686 and a model 66. Pros/cons for either? Also, how do the new one's compare to the older versions?

Thanks for your input.

[the foot]

686 is heavier frame compared to 66. If carry is your aim, I prefer 66.

[rwb1500]

686 is heavier frame compared to 66. If carry is your aim, I prefer 66.

I'd agree with that assessment. Both are great guns. The 686 will give you a little more comfort at the range.

You can get a 7 round 686, if that sort of thing floats your boat.

K or L, that is the question.

[Neko456]

The 686 is a REAL 357 Magnum that shots 38 spls.
The 66 is a K frame 38spl that can shoot occassionaly 357 mag. The 66 is sleeker and can be dressed out as well as the 686. The main thing is that the L frame is bigger and tougher made for 357 mag round.

I like 66/19/15/65s but I own 686.

[Noah_Zark]

The specific reason for selecting the 686 over the 66 is the barrel forcing cone. On the 66, the bottom of the forcing cone is cut off to provide clearance for the cylinder crane. This makes the 66's forcing cone REALLY thin, resulting in a weak design that is prone to cracking when firing high-velocity 357 magnum loads with bullet weights under 130 grs. All K-frame S&W revolvers have the bottom edge of the forcing cone cut away, either carbon steel or SS. It doesn't affect the 22s, 32s, or 38 Specials too much, but there have been 100s of Model 19s and 66s with cracked forcing cones, and you cannot buy new replacement barrels for the Model 19 or older 66 from S&W anymore. The only barrels available are on the secondary market, for increasingly bigger bucks.

The 686 was developed as a slightly larger frame to address the issue of the thin forcing cones on the K-frame. The 686 forcing cone is not cut away at all, and is a significantly more robust design than that of the 66.

Let me put it another way -- the 2.5" Model 66 or Model 19 is one of my favorite S&W models. I once had multiple examples of 19s and 66s. Today, I have none. Zip. Zero. One of my 19s that I shot the most developed a cracked forcing cone. Since I never fired any ammo with a bullet weight below 130 gr, and the gun was used when I bought it, who's to say what happened? I did find another barrel and had it installed, and then sold off the 19s and 66s. The only K-frame S&Ws I still own are in 22, 22 Magnum, 38 Special, or three Model 65LS Ladysmith revolvers through which we only fire 38 Spl or 38 Spl +P. I like the 65LS just too much to let them go, but I refuse to stress them with any 357 load.

I DO own the following 686s, all are prelock:

4" 686 Mountain Gun
4" 686+ 7-shot
2.5" 686+ 7-shot
3" 686+ 7-shot

Kinda gives it away how I feel about the 66, don't it? (wink-wink, nudge-nudge)

Noah

[Chazman321]

I would have to say the 686 is the best bet... I almost bought one, but went with a 6" GP100 instead because it was there already, they would've had to order the 686 and it would've taken awhile to get it there... You can't wait on an impulse buy!!! lol

-Chaz

[normanvin]

I myself am partial to the 686. I have four. One of them is a 2.5" custom shop version.

[ScotsGuards]

While it is true the 686s have a full forcing cone and are a bit more robust; my preference is for the Model 66. I have a nice, if well used, 2 1/2 inch 66 I use as a "bedroom" piece. I picked it up from another dealer awhile back and while well used it is mechanicly sound. I only use .38+Ps or +P+s through it as even the moderate .357 loads are a bit uncomfortable to shoot through the short barrel. Especially for the Mrs.

My real preference in a K frame revolver is a Model 19. I have a 4 Inch I got in the late 70s and used it for years till I went to the auto-loader for the most part. I have put hundreds of rounds, both .38 and .357, through it. I qualified for my 120 with it and it was my duty weapon while a LEO.

As I said, I still have it and recently "rediscovered" it and am enjoying it anew.

What you have to ask yourself is: How much are you planning on shooting your new toy and with what type of ammunition? Excessive use of the wrong load can wear out a K frame. And: Are you going to be carrying this piece alot? Are you planning conceled or open carry? That can add factors as well.

If you want robustness, you could always go with an N frame as well.
(Yes I know; just what this thread needs is another frame size to deal with)

[Steve_NEPhila]

Great info from Noah_Zark as usual. I can follow that up with a very simple statement, get what works. If size is not a problem check out the Smith and Wesson "N" frames like the 627 or 327 models. These large framed .357's will handle the heavy ammo without a problem and you can get them in an 8 shot cylinder.

I have two S&W model 327's, both 8 shooters and I really dig them. They both have five inch barrels and they both are from the Performance Center. Check out the range of what Smith and Wesson offers. Some complain about the internal locking system, which I do not like. However, it can be removed.

[bripro]

I have two S&W model 327's, both 8 shooters and I really dig them.

When did you get the second one? Are there pics up of them side by side?