Building a MP5(a clone of course)

**mike_g** · May 22nd, 2011, 08:53 AM

Snaf- you originally asked for a mp5 clone built from a parts kit. That is what I have. Of course there are laws to follow with any gun ownership, but you are doing your homework.The build is like I say-Everybody wants to go to heaven but nobody wants to die!!!

**bug** · May 22nd, 2011, 12:11 PM

Originally Posted by SNAFUG36

Has anyone built a MP5 from parts kits? I would guess its similar to building a AR in a sense. Granted the parts are quite a bit more expensive than AR parts and I know I will probably spend more in the long run buying it piece by piece.
But has anyone gone this route? Thanks

There is an excellent article in the May issue of Small Arms Review (SAR) on this subject. It was done by Jeff Zimba. You may be able to Google it if you can't find a copy or if you want, send me your address and I'll copy it and send it to you. It covers most of the bases both mechanically and legally. It is primarily aimed at a short barreled rifle model but it will work with a title one firearm also.

**Steelblitz** · May 22nd, 2011, 02:31 PM

When you put together an AR as most people do with a stripped lower/lpk/ furniture/upper, that is not even really 'building' a gun imo, it's more like putting lego's together or plug-n-play. Stepping up to am MP5 clone is a whole other story as you can work off flats and make the receiver yourself, do welding, etc...If you start buying premade recievers and other parts, you'll likely put the costs of the build past what it would cost to already buy an assembled working firearm. The savings in parts kits is doing all or most of the work yourself. Even then, prices for some guns are low enough now that I can't justify buying part's kits and building them.

For me, after putting together many AR's, I think the next easiest gun to progress to is an M1919a4. You can sub the semi conversion machining out and learn to do some easy rivets with that build. It's also a good gun to practice refinishing as you'll have a new RSP, rivets, and other parts that will be in the white. After an M1919a4, building an AK from a parts kit and using a premade Nodak receiver is a nice progression, or bend a receiver from a flat if you can borrow the jig. From there, you really get into builds re-welding torch cut recievers and modifying them for semi-auto use. I feel the RPD is the easiest reweld build to do.

**Mtdew** · May 29th, 2011, 08:42 PM

They are not like building an AR, not even close.

The cocking tube needs tig welded on, the trigger group needs converted to s/a only (involves milling off the auto sear section, drilling and welding a new stop, and welding on the shelf catch) The barrel needs pressed in (bolt gap measured until correct) and then drilled and pinned.

**SNAFUG36** · May 30th, 2011, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by Mtdew

They are not like building an AR, not even close.

The cocking tube needs tig welded on, the trigger group needs converted to s/a only (involves milling off the auto sear section, drilling and welding a new stop, and welding on the shelf catch) The barrel needs pressed in (bolt gap measured until correct) and then drilled and pinned.

So you've built one? Do explain. The more info the better.

**Mtdew** · May 30th, 2011, 09:11 PM

Originally Posted by SNAFUG36

So you've built one? Do explain. The more info the better.

I've built a few HK roller guns.

Are you planning on using a demilled parts kit or all new parts?

The cocking tube gets welded to the receiver

The trunnion gets welded to the receiver and then the barrel gets pressed from the rear of the receiver into the trunnion untill the bolt gap (head space) in correct, then you drill the barrel and press in the barrel pin.

The front sight gets silver soldered on

The rear sight base may or may not need welded on

if you already have a clipped and pinned lower you are done, if you are using a parts kit you need to convert the lower to S/A only.

The front section (auto sear hole) of the trigger pack gets cut out and a new sear hole gets drilled. a hole for the selector stop gets drilled and a pin welded in. the auto sear spring gets re-bent to work with a sa sear.

finally a shelf gets welded to the grip frame

shelf:

**SNAFUG36** · May 30th, 2011, 10:55 PM

Hmmm......perhaps I should save for a complete, pre-assembled upper that has all that pre-installed. Sort of like this one

**Mtdew** · May 31st, 2011, 08:33 AM

Originally Posted by SNAFUG36

Hmmm......perhaps I should save for a complete, pre-assembled upper that has all that pre-installed. Sort of like this one

You might as well just buy one complete, as the price of a bolt goup, grip frame and remaining parts will be close to as much as a complete gun.

**chauncey** · June 6th, 2011, 10:45 PM

i have HK clones built by PTR, MKE and Ghilliebear

the PTR's are fine but needed minimal tweaking. they don't make an MP5 clone.

the MKE is a good gun but FA will never be mechanically possible

i am half way through my second Ghilliebear build. for an MP5 especially, i would recommend a build by Ghilliebear, Chopstix Kid or one of the other reputable builders out there.

some buyers have a lot of success with Coharie Arms, Black Market Parts, etc. others have problems, send their rifles back, and get them fixed. finally there are some that end up having to send their rifles to builders to have them rebuilt. this is currently happening with Century C93's, especially.

for your first roller-locked clone, i would spend some extra $$ and have it built. get to know the method of operation, parts, etc. then buy an off-the-shelf rifle or if you are really handy with a welder and have access to a 12-ton press, try your own build. but at least you will have something to refer to to help you troubleshoot problems.

jmho