Broke my new gun.

[bortle]

Went out shooting my new AMD 65. Was shooting a little low and I got that squared away. Pretty much keeping them inside a 3" circle at 25 yards. Then I noticed the muzzle brake was loose. One little tack weld is all that holds it on.
I guess this a common problem on them. I'm going to grind it a bit and get some one to Mig weld about 4 nice tacks on it. Leave the original and put 2 on each side. Or can I use this as an excuse to buy a Mig welder?

[kimbershooter]

Went out shooting my new AMD 65. Was shooting a little low and I got that squared away. Pretty much keeping them inside a 3" circle at 25 yards. Then I noticed the muzzle brake was loose. One little tack weld is all that holds it on.
I guess this a common problem on them. I'm going to grind it a bit and get some one to Mig weld about 4 nice tacks on it. Leave the original and put 2 on each side. Or can I use this as an excuse to buy a Mig welder?

May be better off with a Tig welder for this application.

I guess you could also drill and tap it for set screws, never tried this but have seen some breaks that attach by this method, and hell of alot cheaper than a welder.

[Asmodeus6]

May be better off with a Tig welder for this application.

I guess you could also drill and tap it for set screws, never tried this but have seen some breaks that attach by this method, and hell of alot cheaper than a welder.

Because on that rifle the barrel extension being welded is what constitutes it being a 16" barrel instead of a 12" one. You need to have it welded on. Set screws aren't good enough in the eyes of the BAFTE. That's why it was welded (shoddily) in the first place. If that barrel extension is free enough to spin off I would get that corrected quickly. Or it is a SBR technically.

[kimbershooter]

Because on that rifle the barrel extension being welded is what constitutes it being a 16" barrel instead of a 12" one. You need to have it welded on. Set screws aren't good enough in the eyes of the BAFTE. That's why it was welded (shoddily) in the first place. If that barrel extension is free enough to spin off I would get that corrected quickly. Or it is a SBR technically.

Thank You, did not know that. Always good to learn something new. Still think TIG welding would be a much better choice over MIG.

[dregan]

Thank You, did not know that. Always good to learn something new. Still think TIG welding would be a much better choice over MIG.

Depends on who welds it. A TIG is a little more controllable. A decent welder could use a MIG no problem.

[Asmodeus6]

Thank You, did not know that. Always good to learn something new. Still think TIG welding would be a much better choice over MIG.

No problem. I have one (AMD 65) so I know exactly what he's dealing with. They all crack.

And I get it from the manufacturers standpoint. They don't want to weld the hell out of the front end of the rifle destroying any possibility of anyone being able to get it off should you want to change out the muzzle device at some point, recrown it - make it a SBR etc.

But they could have added a second teeny little tack weld to the top to stabilize the thing to keep it from cracking after 50 rounds.

Outside of this though, they are FABULOUSLY built guns. Real FEG receiver, and mine is slippery smooth when you charge it. You'd almost swear it wasn't an AK. It's like butter. Accurate too.

Just loud as fuck and throws 1ft fireballs.

[bortle]

It cracked in less than 50 rounds. Other than that it's a nice gun. Well made, smooth action, pretty accurate from my limited shooting so far. You're right about the noise and the fireball too.

[762xIan]

When I was building FAL's I opted for the "silver soldering" method of attaching muzzle devices. No nasty weld to try to hide. Then you also have the fact that "weld" won't parkerize or blue the same as the rest of the barrel.

Here is something I had saved from the ATF on the subject of the "legal" methods of muzzle device attaching.

DEPARTMENT OF THE TREASURY
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms
Washington, D.C. 20226

JUN 18 1998 F:FPD:FTB:RAT
3311


Dear Mr. :

This refers to your letter of March 31, 1998, in which you ask
about permanently attaching a muzzle device to various firearms.

A muzzle device, such as a muzzle brake or barrel extension, which
is attached to a barrel by means of welding or high temperature
silver solder having a melting point of at least 1,100 degrees
Fahrenheit, is considered to be part of the barrel for purposes of
measurement. A seam weld extending at least one-half the
circumference of the barrel or four equidistant tack welds around
the circumference of the barrel are adequate for this purpose.

A firearm having a muzzle brake, cap, or barrel extension
permanently attached by those same methods to cover the threads on
a barrel, would not be considered to have a threaded muzzle.
Please note, however, that any muzzle device or barrel extension
which functions as a flash suppressor or grenade launcher would
still constitute one of the qualifying features of a semiautomatic
assault weapon as that term is defined in 18 U.S.C. section
921(a)(30(B). Industrial adhesive products are not an acceptable
method for permanently attaching a muzzle device.

- 2 -

Mr.

We trust that the foregoing has been responsive to your inquiry.
If you have further questions concerning this matter, please
contact us.


Sincerely yours,

[signed]

Edward M. Owen, Jr.
Chief, Firearms Technology Branch

Note, this was for permanently attaching muzzle devices under the now expired AWB, but I am almost certain the methods the ATF used are the same for making a barrel less than 16" in length compliant by attaching a device. Not mentioned in this old letter is "blind pinning" of the device.

Hope someone jumps in to correct me if I am wrong.

[bortle]

Think I got it fixed. Ground away the finish and drilled 4 little dimples at the joint. Had someone with a Mig put 4 tacks on it. A little grinding and sanding. A couple shots of flat black at I'm good to go. Will try to shoot it tomorrow and see if it holds up.