Another Sig Question

**Deal_me_In** · April 7th, 2011, 01:27 AM

Just bought my first Sig, a used P239. Could someone explain the difference between the DA, DA/SA, and DAK mechanisms? When I rack the slide the hammer seems to go to a half-cocked position and there doesn't seem to be a de-cocking lever so I guess I have the DAK version?

I take it you carry in that "half-cocked" position and the longish trigger pull is the safety? The hammer returns to that position when fired?

Sorry for the noob questions, but I want to be comfortable before I take it to the range and load up.

**Pizza Bob** · April 7th, 2011, 08:53 AM

With the absence of a decocker you have either a DAO or a DAK. The DAK has two trigger reset points. If those are present, you have a DAK, if not, it's an older DAO. Here's an explanation of the DAK system that I wrote some time ago...

DAK stands for Double Action Kellerman, after the man that invented the system. The whole point of DAK is that there are two different trigger reset points - thus two different lengths of pull. It takes a lot of practice to get acclimated to the trigger and being able to feel the reset points and make a conscious decision as to which to use, especially under stress. I've spoken with the firearms trainer of the Phila DA's office (they are equipped withP229's with the DAK system) and he told me that, once acclimated, it is just a matter of muscle memory.

So, why two different reset points and what's the advantage? If you are close-up and personal and rate (quantity) of fire is the primary concern, as opposed to accuracy (quality), you use the shorter reset point - less distance to cycle the trigger = faster rate of fire. Downside of that position is that with the shorter reset, you have less leverage on the trigger linkage so your weight of pull is higher.

For aimed accurate/non-hurried fire, use the longer reset and you get a lighter pull (longer reset = more leverage, less weight). There is approximately 1.5# - 2# difference in the weight of pull between the two reset points. In a stressful situation, you probably won't notice the difference.

The hammer always works from the partially cocked (hammer intercept notch) position, except in the case of a misfire, where the hammer will be all the way down, since the slide didn't cycle.

You can demonstrate the two different reset points with an empty gun. Pull the trigger (after checking to make sure that it is unloaded, of course) and hold the trigger to the rear of the trigger guard. Cycle the slide and then slowly release the trigger. You will hear a distinct click at the first reset point. If you continue to release the trigger, you will hear a click for the second reset. Repeat the exercise, but don't go to the second reset, just pull the trigger again after the first reset point is heard/felt. Repeat but let it go to the second before pulling again (don't forget you have to manually cycle the slide between trigger pulls) - now you have felt the difference in the trigger pulls caused by the DAK system.

HTH

Adios,

Pizza Bob

**JoeyBones** · April 7th, 2011, 09:54 AM

^^^ Pizza Bob nailed it. ^^^

Try his instructions in the last paragraph to test out the reset point(s).

Regards,

Bones

**Gunnutz13** · April 7th, 2011, 01:36 PM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SIG_P239

ALSO...this has alot more on variants...links to SA/DA etc...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SIG_P226

**Deal_me_In** · April 7th, 2011, 02:29 PM

Thanks guys, I came to the right place.

Also, did the test and I have the DAK. Really looking forward to shooting it now.

**toml** · April 7th, 2011, 08:27 PM

Welcome! Here's my 239, a DA/SA model with a satin nickel slide:

**Deal_me_In** · April 8th, 2011, 03:42 AM

Originally Posted by toml

Welcome! Here's my 239, a DA/SA model with a satin nickel slide:

I have the two-tone look also. I was comparison shopping online and every black frame/stainless slide was a "SAS" model, but mine doesn't say SAS so I guess it's not. Was trying to figure out if I overpaid at $650.

PS thanks for the welcome and the pic very nice!!

**Ricochet** · April 8th, 2011, 05:31 AM

Originally Posted by Deal_me_In

I have the two-tone look also. I was comparison shopping online and every black frame/stainless slide was a "SAS" model, but mine doesn't say SAS so I guess it's not. Was trying to figure out if I overpaid at $650.

PS thanks for the welcome and the pic very nice!!

I think the "SAS" models just have the edges of the gun rounded so to make it better when concealed carry you are are drawing.

The theory is, that the less pointed edges the less likely the gun will snag on clothing.

Here is a pic of the SAS version:
(notice the muzzle and rear part of the slide and how rounded the corners are)

And here is a pic of the regular 239 with pointed edges on the slide: