S&W Revolver Triggers: Are They All So Nice?

[PAS&W]

I own 10 pre- lock S&W revolvers.

They all have VERY light and crisp single action pulls.

The DA pulls vary a bit and my J frames have lighter pulls than the K frames
of course.

.

[marks]

An ongoing thanks again to all that have responded so far.

@Steve_NEPhila: Very good/informative post. Thank you. I agree that such a light/cocked trigger pull isn't a good idea/practice (speaking for myself) in any situation other than at the range. The trigger's far too light. And, I most definitely need to work on my accuracy in DA. I have much to learn regarding revolvers, but along the way I'm finding that shooting revolvers has the added benefit of making me a better semi-auto shooter ("better" meaning more accurate).

[Bravo Whiskey]

I have been working on the S & W line up and I check out a fair amount of guns on treasure hunts and I am amazed at the overall consistentcy of both pulls over a varity of models.

[PennsyPlinker]

In SA, a Smith and Wesson hammer will drop when you "think" it. It DA, it is quite a bit harder. As Steve mentions, this is not necessarily a bad thing, but they are smooth when they have been used for a while.

[dogngun]

S&W J frames use coil springs for their hammer springs and some can be a bit stiff. Older K frames and N frames use flat steel springs and the feel is pretty obvious. The "hard" DA pull is a safety measure.

I really like the J frame replacement spring from Wolff Springs. Makes a very big positive difference and costs around $4.

Sometime you should try a pre-WWII S&W K frame, the "long action"...they are about the best ever made for smooth.


mark

[Dave_n]

I have roughly equal numbers (over15 in each) of the long and short actions in S&W. My 1915 and 1916 N frames (in 0.455 and reamed 0.455) are silky smooth in SA and DA and of the more modern varieties, I have a Model 14 that is roughly 1955 and is superb in DA, closely followed by an M57 no dash N frame. I might add that aside from Enfields and Webleys, I only own S&W revolvers, and then all are pre MIM versions. Dave_n

[marks]

In the current S&W .357 mag/.38 special lineup, which would be on your short list for stock DA trigger pull? That being, I suppose, the same factors that I'd look for in a semi-auto pistol: Light, smooth, short. I'm considering a 686 or 686 Plus (4" barrel), and of course, I can dry fire any candidates, but I'd like opinions.

[Steve_NEPhila]

In the current S&W .357 mag/.38 special lineup, which would be on your short list for stock DA trigger pull? That being, I suppose, the same factors that I'd look for in a semi-auto pistol: Light, smooth, short. I'm considering a 686 or 686 Plus (4" barrel), and of course, I can dry fire any candidates, but I'd like opinions.

No two factory revolvers will be the exact same because they are hand fit. However, any S&W revolver can be taken to John Robinson (or another high quality gunsmith) at Classic Pistol for an action job.

The 686 plus or an 8 shot N frame like the 327 M&P R8, 627 Pro or 327 PC snubbie will have a relatively short trigger pull. The reason for this "shorter" trigger pull is that the hand (the piece that rotates the cylinder) has to push the cylinder a shorter distance to lock because the holes in the cylinder are closer together.

Try before you buy!!! Try out some revolvers and see what you like. You can always have the action tuned (which does not cost much at all, if I remember I paid 70 bucks for one of my tuned actions from John at CP) on any quality S&W revolver. Pick what you want for weight, barrel length, features, aesthetics and the like without being too concerned about trigger pull. However, I must say that the Performance Center revolvers from S&W are worth every dollar. The PC guns have fantastic fit and finish and are gems in my collection. The 686 SSR (6 shooter, set up for IDPA Stock Service Revolver competition) is a fantastic revolver and well worth the money. Now go and do some trying out and some buying...


On a side note I want to address the strain screw on Smith and Wesson revolvers. The strain screw should always be tight and perhaps with a tad bit of blue loctite on the threads. Some people loosen the strain screw to reduce the preloaded tension on the main spring to lighten the trigger pull. This should NEVER be done, it is not an adjustment screw!!!

[cdeily]

I am relatively new handguns, but after starting with semi's, I fell in love with wheelguns. S & W definitely takes the show for me. I don't have much experience with other wheels (other than my .44 blackhawk) but I don't really feel the need to based on how my Smith's perform. As mentioned before, I noticed my used ones are especially nice.

One of my two favorites I just recently picked up (thanks Ron) is a model 10 4" heavy barrel. It's not much to look at as the blueing is worn pretty good from being a police gun but it is a beauty to shoot. Both SA and DA are super smooth.

My other favorite is my baby. My wife got it for me as wedding present, it's a 6" nickel plated model 19-3. Again, bought it used in mint condition and it is amazing. At the range it makes easy work of the 3" plates at 30 yards. Both SA and DA are super smooth which definitely helps out with accuracy.

I also rely on my j frame snubby as my everyday carry. I bought it new but it is getting broken in nicely. So far I have probably 500 rds. down the pipe. For a snubby, it's a great little shooter.

My other Smith is an old 6" pencil barrel .38. I'm not even sure what model it is, it was my great uncle's and I got it after he passed away. It has the fixed blade front sight on it and the groove cut in the back for the rear sight. Still another great shooter and super accurate. Can one of you smith guys let me know how to look up the info on it (date of production and other stuff).

In my experience, and the experience of my buddies I shoot with, it's hard to compare other wheels to a smith.

[brian]

My other Smith is an old 6" pencil barrel .38. I'm not even sure what model it is, it was my great uncle's and I got it after he passed away. It has the fixed blade front sight on it and the groove cut in the back for the rear sight. Still another great shooter and super accurate. Can one of you smith guys let me know how to look up the info on it (date of production and other stuff).

In my experience, and the experience of my buddies I shoot with, it's hard to compare other wheels to a smith.

sounds like an m&p(the military and police name is not new), later known as the model 10.