Am I missing anything?

[gnbrotz]

I've recently taken some preliminary steps to begin reloading, and am ready to place an order for some things of my own. Between my order, and nearby friends and relatives, I will have (or have access to), the following items.

*ABC's of Reloading
*Lyman's #49 reloading manual
*One Book/One Caliber manuals for the appropriate calibers

*Lee Classic cast single stage press
*dies for desired calibers
*powder measure
*magnetic powder scale
*hand priming tool
*primer pocket cleaning tool
*case length gauge/trimmer
*case reaming tool
*digital calipers
*impact bullet puller
*storage cases for completed reloads
*labels

I may or may not get a tumbler at some point. Right now I'm using a liquid solution suggested by a fellow reloader, and allowing the casings to air dry (doing this after depriming, and before priming).

So....

Am I missing anything?

[West Chester]

Flash hole uniformer and a chamfer tool.

[gnbrotz]

Flash hole uniformer and a chamfer tool.

The chamfer tool is what I called the "case reaming tool". I hadn't planned on being so detailed as to uniformly size the flash hole, but since it only has to be done once, and it's a relatively inexpensive tool, I'll definitely consider it further.

[cephas]

Sounds as if you got a good start. What do you plan to reload? A universal depriming die is nice, that way you can clean the cases prior to putting them through your sizing die. If getting into rifle you'll need some case lube. When getting into working up loads a powder tickler is nice. Cheap notebook, keep records of your loads. Think about a chronograph down the road, nice tool to have. Wish I'd had one sooner. Have fun, be safe.

[gnbrotz]

Sounds as if you got a good start. What do you plan to reload? A universal depriming die is nice, that way you can clean the cases prior to putting them through your sizing die. If getting into rifle you'll need some case lube. When getting into working up loads a powder tickler is nice. Cheap notebook, keep records of your loads. Think about a chronograph down the road, nice tool to have. Wish I'd had one sooner. Have fun, be safe.

I'm going to be reloading .45 ACP first, with 9mm soon to follow, as I hope to soon purchase a 9mm pistol for my son. I don't forsee any rifle reloading in the near future, but if things go well, I may consider it when my AR is complete.

Now that you mention it, I know someone who does have a chronograph, and it's also definitely on my longer term list.

[twoguns]

I did not see a loading tray on the list. A tray to hold your primed brass after you charge it with the powder and just before you seat the bullet.
Also case lube for re-sizing your brass.

You will find the .45 auto easy to load. Just be sure to check and double check everything. You don't want any mistakes like double charged loads or no powder in the case and you seat a bullet.

I started loading for precision rifle loads then did some loading for handgun, mostly revolver. I have not graduated to a progressive stage press but you may find if you are loading for autos you want to go that route for speed.

Good you are using a hand-priming tool. They are much more reliable and less prone to malfunction than the ones on a single stage press.

Good luck and be safe.

[Flash]

The WILSON case mouth chamfering-deburring tool is the ultimate, as it has multiple flutes (cutting edges). It is also marketed and sold by RCBS.

This tool will asl remove military crimp from small and large primer pckets. Very versatile, and will last practically forever.



As for the loading blocks, definitely a good thing if you are loading in batches of 50, and charge powder a batch at a time. (However, if you run your batches in "buckets" - that is, charge, insert and seat bullet on one case at a time, you won't need one. It is just a personal preference thing.

When charging powder fifty at a time, it allows you to look at all fifty at the same time to determine if you have any double-charges or squib loads. There is that advantage.

Flash

[dk99358]

One of the posters mentioned lube. Carbide dies don't require lube. I don't think you can even buy dies for handgun cartridges that aren't carbide. (maybe 30 Carbine)

I'd skip the primer pocket cleaning tool, a small straight blade screwdriver works just as well. If I'm in a bit of a hurry, I don't clean pockets, works just fine without doing it.

I'd skip flashhole uniforming too, just not worth the extra work IMO. But I load and shoot hunting ammo, and am not trying to squeeze the last 0.005 inches out of a load to win the match.

I have found a small plastic spoon and a small container useful for powder charging a few of this or some of those. Scoop from the container to the scale pan. Do you have a funnel on your list?

Other than that, looks like a good list.

Dale

[pstew]

You are going to need case lube for rifle calibers, either a spray or pad.

[Delerius]

For a tumbler I recommend the Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-Ez Case Tumbler. I picked one up from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arse...5105814&sr=1-1 and it works excellent. For a media, I like to use cheap hard rice from the grocery store. Once I'm done tumbling, I swipe the wife's colander and dump a little of the rice and shells through the colander and shake the rice into a 5 gallon bucket.

For pistol loads I've never used a primer pocket cleaning tool, a reaming tool or a case trimmer. It's just not necessary.
I do recommend to seriously consider a muliti stage press like the Hornady lock and load. Tho it's more money, there is less chance for error like "double charging" because the cartridge is only at each stage once. Another nice feature is that once the dies are locked down and set, you don't have to worry about adjusting them even if you remove them from the press. There are other advantages as well if you would like to know more.