New Revolver Qualification?

[newskate9]

Got a new S&W 438 Airweight revolver from Buds' Great service. FFL at Mech. Ordnance - Richard - again, great service.

Question - on my semi's, I do 300-400 flawless practice rounds, and then about 50 CCW ammo, before I promote it into service. That way, I know if I need it to work, it will. Every once in a while too, I'll stop by the club and draw/fire to be sure my process still works.

This is my first revolver. I know, less moving parts and things that could go wrong. But I'm not sure I'd trust it just yet. So, what would you guys reco for "qualifying" before putting into service?

[Steve_NEPhila]

Since you have a lightweight revolver I advise you first to buy a hundred or two rounds of your proposed carry ammunition. Load your cylinder fully with your chose ammunition for defense. Shoot 4 of the 5 rounds, do not shoot the last round. Pull the last round out of the revolver and compare it to the same cartridge from the box. Look carefully at the bullet crimp and overall length of the cartridge. Both should be the same length, with no noticeable difference in length.

The above is done to check if the recoil is "pulling" the bullet from the casing. Lightweight revolvers can pull bullets from cases when the revolver is light and the ammunition has heavy bullets and/or heavy recoil. This is just a basic test to determine if your ammunition is compatible with your revolver. If there is bullet pulling (the cartridge getting longer due to the bullet unseating) switch to a lower weight projectile load. Most of the time this test is passed, it is important to do it to make sure.

After that initial test do some shooting, one handed, two handed, preactice reload drills etcetera. I recommend only shooting in double action, cocking the hammer is a bit of a waste because in a gunfight or in training you will not have the time to pull back the hammer. Double action shooting is not easy, yet it can be mastered. Practice the double action trigger control.

[newskate9]

Wow, I never would've thought about that - bullet pulling - glad I asked!

On that phenomenon - is that more of an AMMO issue, than the gun issue? Meaning, there are thousands (if not a million) of these revolvers out there and surely they can't all cause this issue - or maybe they do??? Are there ammo brands that are susceptible to this happening, i.e. some I should stay away from?

The process you propose is in many ways the one I use for semi's - find what works, be sure, stick with it. Good thing, now I know what to look for - versus just seeing it go bang a few dozen times.

Thank you!

[customloaded]

As a new revolver owner, don't missunderstand NE statement. This can occur with any weapon system. He is merely advising you that based on the light weight design of the particular revolver you bought, this could occur in conjuction with your selected carry ammo based on head grains. Its not over common but just one of those small little deals, more of a heads up kinda thing.

CL

[newskate9]

No worries, that's exactly how I took it.

I was just asking question(s) for more of the "next layer of the onion" kind of stuff. I try to learn any way I can!

[Steve_NEPhila]

I can go as little further and explain about the bullet pulling through physics. Recoil is the equal and opposite reaction to the launching of the projectile in a handgun. Recoil may "feel" different when it is experienced in a lighter weight handgun when using the exact same cartridge. The recoil forces are essentially the same, the only difference is that a lighter weight handgun has less mass for the inertia to overcome.

Revolvers are more prone to bullet pulling than automatics. Automatics have a mechanism which absorbs recoil through movement, thus lengthening and decreasing the severity of the recoil pulse. A revolver has no such action. The bullet pulling occurs by the violent recoil of the revolver which is resisted by the mass of the projectiles in the cartridge. The projectiles resist the movement rearward and can be "pulled" from the cases, sometimes only a few millimeters, other times completely. The lighter the revolver and the more energy the cartridge generates, the more likely bullet pulling is to occur. For example, a Smith and Wesson 329 PD in .44 magnum weighing about 23 ounces can easily pull heavy bullets from the casings while the 53 ounce Ruger Super Redhawk almost never does.

Your 438 is not very likely to pull bullets, yet it is always best to test it yourself. I carry a 642 which is about the same weight and have shot +P 158 grain LSWCHP's and have not experienced bullet pulling. Think of this more of a test of the ammunition then your revolver, yet they function for a common goal.

As a side note to a wheelgun owner, but some sturdy snap caps like the aluminum A zoom caps. These make for great practice with reloading drills with whatever you choose (HKS or safariland type loaders, or speed strips for that matter). I carry two 8 round speed strips in my back pocket (three complete reloads of the 5 shot cylinder with one loose round) and a safariland push button type speed loader in either a coat or pants pocket. It might seem like overkill but this makes it easier when switching between weapons. My other carry revolver is a 7 shot Smith L frame, and if I switch all I need to do is swap speedloaders.

[rwb1500]

Good advice above.

I'd also reccomend practicing reloads. When you go to the range practice a reload everytime you shoot the gun dry. With a revolver as small and light as yours you'll need to practice shooting quite a bit. Don't get discouraged if you can't make 25 yards shots, or even 10 yard shots. The little J Frames are tough to master. Start close, fighting distance. Even just beyond arms length. Then gradually move out. This will help.

Definitely get some quality snap caps. Buy aluminium ones, not those crappy plastic things. AZoom and Pachmyr both make good ones. Then dry fire, over, and over. It'll help you learn the trigger, strengthen you finger, and smooth out the action.