Need stock fixed on old shotgun

[RugerNiner]

Can anybody give me a name of a shop who can fix this stock?
Preferably on the Southeastern part of PA.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...?Item=85164712

[Xringshooter]

What are you looking to do with it? I hope not shoot it as it looks like it may have Damascus barrels and you don't want to shoot modern ammo through it. If your just going to fix it up as a nice conversation piece/wall hanger due to its age and possible history you could probably fix it yourself if you have some woodworking knowledge. I do this as a hobby. I am currently working on a 103 year old SxS that will be mounted after I'm done. Mine was cracked at the wrist area so I carefully pryed it up atthe crack and filled it with an epoxy with a matching color wood dust. I clamped it down with super heavy duty rubber bands and after it cured I cleaned it up, removed the old finish, recut the checkering and refinished it. You can still see some of the crack but it's not real noticable.

You can do it yourself, just take your time. It is actually very satisfying to restore old firearms and do the research to see the who, what , where, why, how, etc.

[RugerNiner]

It's definitely a wall hanger.
I was hoping to clean the wood and have the cracks fixed.
I've heard of some people washing them at a car wash.

[WMG]

about 4 yrs ago I got an old beat up sks with a split in the wrist area , I pumped in some regular super glue , clamped it and she hasn't let loose to this day

[Xringshooter]

RugerNiner,

Do Not, repeat, Do Not wash it at a carwash!! In many (most) cases this can do more harm than good. If you want to clean up the stock (leaving the nicks, bumps scratches, etc.) get some furniture refinisher (Formby's is very good). This will strip off the old finish and you can then put something else back on (tung oil, etc.). If you want to smooth everything up then take sandpaper to it working up to finer and finer grit. Be careful about not changing any contours. If it has checkering on it that you want to touch up you can get a starter set of checkering tools from Brownells or MidwayUSA pretty cheap. You an also get a book on how to do checkering that will help if you have never done this.

Clean up the barrels and action just like you are cleaning any shotgun . You might want to get some brass bristle brushes to get into the odd areas and you can use steel wool on the outside (and the inside if you want) of the barrels, especially if you are going to rebrown them.

Just take your time and it will look good.

[Frenchy]

Can anybody give me a name of a shop who can fix this stock?
Preferably on the Southeastern part of PA.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...?Item=85164712

First thing you want to do is remove the wood. If the gun on the link above is the gun, I only see 2 major parts that need "fixed" but they look like the chips are completely gone, so you will need to "fill" in those gaps.

2 ways of doing this, dig and fill, or patch.

First way gives a nicer result. but is more labor intensive.
Second way is fast, but will always look like a patch.

First way, take the stock off, then define the area that needs to be filled in. Drill into the area with as small of a drill as will cover the area In the case of the pic above, I can see a 1/4 drill being used, you will probably need to put a spacer where the tang was, then drill a 1/4 to 5/16 hold the lenght of the pieve missing, now take out the filler wood where the tang was, and you will have a rounded even hole, cut a dowel to fit in this hole and glue it in. I prefer CA glue for this, you probably know it as crazy clue.
but any good wood glue will do. Once the glue is cured, slowly take out the exess wood, and polish up the area, the wood will now look like it had a "knot" in it, but it will be all wood.

Second way, is to fill with wood filler, you can get this at Home depot, lowes or Ace, any wood working place carries it. set it in, let it dry, If you have no filler, you can make your own with while glue and saw dust. Same as above, once dried sand lightly and polish, this will always look like a piece of press wood tho.

By using some thing similar to the first piece you could make the chip stand out in a fashion way. With a dremmel or similar tool, scrape enough wood to secure a pieve of antler there. once the antler is glued into place, grind down and polish back into shape. Nice thing about htis is you could do the undamaged side to make it look original.

Small pucks and marks, I see you have some one telling you to go to the local car wash with the gun. Bad Idea, you dont want to soak the stock with water. But steam will lift small puck marks, Take a damp rag, place it on the puck mark, then steam with an iron.
The wood will swell and come back to its form before being pucked. Sand and polish.

I use CA or Cyanoacriliate glue on all my small wood projects here. There is as good reason for this too, it is not bothered by oils and stains AND unlike white glue or Horse bone glue, if will not undo its self with humidity. See CA glues actually bond by humidity. The humidity in th ewood is what makes them cure.

If you need some small antler pieces to fill with, send me an email, I have some small parts around I can send you. I would say send me the stock, but you would not like the price of some one else doing it for you.

If you have no tools at all, and still would like a wood finish, Look around for laminating wood, again Home depot and Lowes carry this, Rockler (online) carry it in much thinner leaves. sant the area to be done flush so you have a straight surface, then place a laminate on it with glue, wait to dry shape the part with a good carving knife, repeat untill the whole area is restored. Again, CA glue works wonders here because it cures in minutes not hours.

PS. You could probably do this your self, but if you plan on sending it out to be done, you might just look into a brand new stock to be shipped to you, it will cost less then getting some one to do it unless they do you a very large favor.

Parching wood or Dig and fill is an art, it can look very good and actually add to the looks of the original wood. Dont try to color match the woods, the grain is never the same in amy given wood, the more it looks out of place, the better the result will be as it will look like just an other grain in the wood.

[oldemagics]

rugerniner, i think you have seen my work on the other forum.
i am just north of Reading if that is close enough for you.
send me an e-mail with what you are really expecting of that wood if interested.
oldemagics@hotmail.com