Need Advice On SxS Metal Refinishing

[Rvrfshr]

I recently acquired an older model SxS that has some sort of clear finish on it. I need to strip the finish (not sure if it's epoxy, clear coat or a resin based finish) and re-paint the barrels. Parkerizing it would be ideal, but out of the question because of cost. Is there a matte finish that I could spray on that would seal the barrels and bring this old shotgun up to snuff?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

[WVBob]

I just got an older S&W Model 10 that needs some clean up and have been looking at the re-blueing kits at Midway. They have a cleaner called Evapo-Rust that will clean the blueing and the rust. Then I'll use a cold blue kit. I'm going to try that for a winter project, just to see how it does. Look at Midwayusa.com for cleaners and kits.

[harold63]

I recently acquired an older model SxS that has some sort of clear finish on it. I need to strip the finish (not sure if it's epoxy, clear coat or a resin based finish) and re-paint the barrels. Parkerizing it would be ideal, but out of the question because of cost. Is there a matte finish that I could spray on that would seal the barrels and bring this old shotgun up to snuff?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Well, I am not a sxs person, so I have to ask if the barrels will separate from the receiver? I can tell you how to get the coating off and what to use to refinish it, but I would not want you to mess up anything on the receiver. Anyway you can post a picture of it?

[Rvrfshr]

Well, I am not a sxs person, so I have to ask if the barrels will separate from the receiver? I can tell you how to get the coating off and what to use to refinish it, but I would not want you to mess up anything on the receiver. Anyway you can post a picture of it?

I've removed the barrels from the stock. Found an epoxy, paint & polyurethane stripper (methanol & methylene chloride) which I'll use to remove whatever the clear coat is on the barrels. Also picked up a bottle of Krud Kutter (rust remover & inhibitor) which I will treat the barrels with after cleaning them.

The next step (painting/coating) the barrels I'm not so sure about. Don't necessarily need to reblue the gun but would like to get a matte finish on it. I understand that most finishes are baked on but I don't have anything that would accomodate the barrels. A pizza oven would be nice.

Any suggestions as to what kind of finish would be applicable in this situation?

Thanks,

[justashooter]

lots of finishes out there, but the engine enamels found in spray cans in the auto parts store are the easiest to use. hang the barrels from a wire, dust coat from 12", 15 minutes later color coat from 12-16". allow to dry, then bake in your regular oven at 225* till the smell quits. allow to cool before handling. hard as a rock and durable to cleaners. dupilcolor #1634 is a nice matte black. make it more "matte" by applying a 3rd coat from 18-20" before baking.

don't allow temps much above 225. the barrels are soldered to the mid rib and will come unglued as low as 350*.

[harold63]

I've removed the barrels from the stock. Found an epoxy, paint & polyurethane stripper (methanol & methylene chloride) which I'll use to remove whatever the clear coat is on the barrels. Also picked up a bottle of Krud Kutter (rust remover & inhibitor) which I will treat the barrels with after cleaning them.

The next step (painting/coating) the barrels I'm not so sure about. Don't necessarily need to reblue the gun but would like to get a matte finish on it. I understand that most finishes are baked on but I don't have anything that would accomodate the barrels. A pizza oven would be nice.

Any suggestions as to what kind of finish would be applicable in this situation?

Thanks,

Well, there are a number of things you can use, it just depends on how much you want to spend. I am not opposed to paint out of a can (redid a Mav. 88 this way) but you will want to use a top brand, such as Krylon or equivalent. I am retired from the car business with almost 30yrs exp. in paint and autobody, and I will tell you that these good brands of spray paint are better than people give them credit for. To close escrow, you will want to use Duracote or Ceracote. Whatever you use, preparation is the key to get a lasting finish. Roughed, smooth, and super clean before painting. With spray can paint, you will want to prime it first with the same brand primer (use grey as it gives the truest color black when that is applied). Smooth the primer with a scotch brite pad before applying color. You need to let the complete paint job cure for at least 30 days before applying any kind of chemicals, and avoid chemical contact, as much as possible, after the 30 days. Also, do not apply too much paint, just enough to get full coverage since the thicker it is, the more it may crack and peel with time. DC and CC can withstand just about anything other than paint removers, has a fast cure time, and is hard to chip, crack, or peel, no matter what you do to it. The cheap way is ok to do, just be prepared to take a little better care of it. Think about letting a good body man look at it. If you know someone, they may give you a good deal on a refinish with a good hardened enamel that will last just like car paint does. Google Duracote and Ceracote, as well.

[Rvrfshr]

I thank you all for your suggestions. Will post a pic of the before and after once the job is completed.

Have a great new year!