Brownell's Teflon coating

[Tony Fly]

Has anyone ever used this product?

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...RE__GUN_FINISH

Is it a solid product? Does it protect against rust effectively? Does it chip or rub easily? Sounds like the GLOCK slide finish, but I'm not sure.

My problem is I have an older Kahr K9 (made in 1996). This is the Black version but is a Carbon Steel frame and slide. Well, my sweat is rusting the gun constantly and I just can't have this problem with my carry guns. I have been using 0000 Steel Wool to remove it, but I would like to refinish it easily with a rust-proof coating.

Are there any other in-expensive options I can do myself with little to no experience or tools? Color is not a biggy, but I do love the look of Hard Chrome/Nickel/Steel (Shiney! )... but Black will work too.

Thanks for your help all!

[Cornhusker]

I've used it a few times and it works great if the metal is properly prepared. It works best if the metal has been media blasted or parkerized. It works ok on parts that have just had the blueing stripped. If you use it on a part that has been polished it will flake off pretty easily. Basically, the rougher the surface is, the better it works.

[Tony Fly]

I've used it a few times and it works great if the metal is properly prepared. It works best if the metal has been media blasted or parkerized. It works ok on parts that have just had the blueing stripped. If you use it on a part that has been polished it will flake off pretty easily. Basically, the rougher the surface is, the better it works.

I need access to a media blaster then... or a different option. Thanks!

[edritchey]

I've had good luck with it on small parts as long as they were prepaired correctly.

[Cornhusker]

Tony,
look up sandblasting in your yellow pages. You might find someone who can do the media blasting for you. I have no idea how much it would cost. A gunsmith can probably do the whole process for you.

[ROBOWOP]

I've used it a lot.I just built a longslide .45 for friend,welded a 2 inch extension on an old military slide.Can't blue it,no matter how nice a job you do,the extension piece,weld,and parent slide will all be different colors,so out came the paint.It's tough stuff to spray out of a can,and I use a LOT of spraycans.I like using the pour cans in an airbrush,does a way nicer job.It doesn't work worth a crap on Aluminum,chips right off.Regardless of wether you get the pour or spray cans,make sure you shake the living gonads out of it before you use it,AT LEAST three minutes,and keep shaking it as much as possible.If not,the Teflon and Graphite in the can will go in the garbage when you throw out the empty can,LOL!! You really do need to blast it,the rougher,the better.I just started Parkerizing,haven't tried it over that yet..[Although,why would you?]Most good motorcycle shops have a blast cabinet.One little stupid tip.A lot cheaper,and available everywhere,once in a while,on crappy guns I'm just messing with,or stuff I'm developing,I've had really good luck with VHT brake caliper paint.The black is pretty tough,and can be baked.For the oddball "color" project,Dulplicolor Ceramic engine enamel is tough stuff,I swear the lime green is the toughest paint I've ever seen.I'm building a single shot .22 short pistol out of an old Colt Police Positive frame I've had for a while,I want it silver,not worth chroming[at least,not yet,LOL!!..]that's getting painted with Duplicolor graphite color wheel paint,which is also pretty tough paint.

[Asmodeus6]

Caliper paint with good prep work is seriously tough stuff. Give it some normal dry time then bake it on. It will be tough as nails.

[ROBOWOP]

Caliper paint with good prep work is seriously tough stuff. Give it some normal dry time then bake it on. It will be tough as nails.

I ended up painting that Colt single shot with caliper paint.Baked it at 300 for an hour..I'll post pics after I finish making the rear sight..Kinda funny,even after you bake it,though,it still gets better after a few weeks..