My 10/22 build is done(for now)..

[Mity2]

Some of you know that I've been building 10/22 Target gun.
And this is what I have so far...



Picture don't show much, but after 30 or so repeated coat of Tangoil sure make it shine like mirror...


I still have to figure something out for recoil pad. I should have thought about it before I finished it. Likely, I have to get one of them grind to fit, and refinish the stock...

And how it shot today for the first time





To be honest, I was expecting little better group.
But with stock plastic trigger assembly being piece of Poo, thats about best I managed. So trigger is my next agenda.
I could use slightly better scope as well.
THinking about Mueller AVP. Anyone have any experience with them?


It looks like my 10/22 perfers RWS's Rifle match 2.6grams(or 40gr) round nose, as it got the smallest grouping.

My other 10/22 with 16" barrel do very well with Elley, but this gun didn't care too much for it.
Wolf did it good(as expected), although RWS was better.
Just for the kicks, I also tried RWS's Target rifle, same projectile and weight, and same velocity, but didn't do as well as their Rifle Match did.

interestingly, Remington Target load from Walmart(cheapest as well) performed extremly well. best of it is about same grouping as Wolf. But the 1/2 the price(I used this remington to sight the weapon in).

[ErSwnn]

Very nice Mity. Did you do the stock customization yourself? Oh, and yes, replace the trigger, it'll do wonders for you. Lots of them top choose from but I'll let others with more experience give their testamonies.

[Rosco the Iroc]

Very nice!

[Misery Loves Shotguns]

That rifle is whack off material! I love the thumbhole stocks but I'm left handed so finding one that's comfortable for me is really hit or miss. How much have you spent on that? I've been thinking about buying a .22 so I could have something cheap to shoot.

[PisnNapalm]

I've bought parts for my 10/22 from this site. http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv

The shine on your stock is awesome. Nicely done.

[ssom003]

Very nice...

[ar15jules]

I've been wanting to do one of these myself! Very nice!
Jules

[Mity2]

Very nice Mity. Did you do the stock customization yourself?

Yes.
Stock is made by Richard's Microfit.
What they sent me was pretty much piece of lumber.
I had to do ALOT of fitting and finishing for it to work.
So while I was at it, I reshaped finger groove and pistol grip so that it fits my hand better.

KDE - I haven't spent too much yet.
Gun started out as bone stock 10/22 Stainless. Wife got it for me as Xmass gift. I'm not sure what she paid, but it was may be around $250?
Scope is Tasco World Class's x3~x9 powered 40mm scope I got used for $75, and I got some cheap ring for it(<$15)
Barrel is from shooter's ridge's Stainless flueted .920. It was around $150.
Stock was again from Richard's microfit. I bought what they had in on their bargen bin. It was $119.
BTW, I do believe they make them for lefty as well. But some of the Boyd's stocks are ambidex design. You may want to go with that.

Keep your eyes open on classfied section. Good used 10/22 come through now and then. For build base, just buy cheapest one you can get your hand on.
I started out with new gun, which was waste - Since barrel and Stock was not used.
If you can find unloaded reciever for sale(usualy around $75 or so), that'll be the way to go.

[YBNORMAL]

Looks great! If your interested in working on your trigger, since you seem to be a DIY kind of guy, check out some of the online tutorials. When I did mine, I did alot of work to the bolt, trigger, sear, hammer and reciever.

Polishing the hammer (the part the bolt rides on) and radiusing the rear underside of the bolt will make the action much smoother and cycle more reliably with lots of different ammo. The bolt buffers are really nice too, they keep the frame from getting beat up and gets rid of that slapping noise you hear when the bolt hits the large pin in the reciever.

I went to a machine shop and got several different thicknesses of shim stock and shimmed the sear and dissconnector in the trigger assymbly, then shimmed the trigger to the tigger housing. Then of course worked on the mating surfaces of the sear and hammer. The last thing I did to the trigger area was to remove the trigger plunger and drill the hole out the other side of the trigger group and tap the hole for a set screw. Doing this gives you an overtravel adjustment. There is a procedure for getting rid of the pre-travel, you have to use JB weld and build a hump between the sear and dissconnector.

Last but not least is to drill a hole of each side of the reciever (inline and in the center of the trigger housing to reciever pins), and tap them for setscrews. This will allow you to snug the setscrews and take up the slop between the trigger group and reciever. This is important because the ejector in in the trigger group and the bolt is in the reciever so the alighnment of the two is important for reliable extraction/ejection.

Also take a look at your takedown/action screw and check for shiny spots on the threaded end of it. If it is shiny it is touching your barrel when you tighten down your stock. This will change POI every time you tighten you stock unless you use a torque wrench and get it the same every time. This is a common problem with the 10/22.

YB

All of that stuff made for a very clean tigger in mine, It took some time to do all that but it was a lot of fun and was worth every second spent.


Edit: how far away were your targets in the OP, I wont comment on wether they can be improved on untill I know how far away you were

[Mity2]

YB, do you happened to have any web page regarding hot to that you recommend?