Hey yall I need a little help...

[Triggerh4ppy]

Pencil torch is the way to go for this issue.........

CAREFULLY applied....

yeah carefully is the key hehe

[Triggerh4ppy]

well Itried heat.
No luck...I think some dumb-ass russian armorer(or maybe just a plain ol' peasant) cross threaded the screw.

Not gonna mess with that anymore lol.
I polished up stuff as best as I could,and will continue to polish the bolt for ease of use.Thanks everyone for all the advice.I'll keep it in mind when i get another on to accurize.
(bubba free of course )

[junkmanted]

How about a manual impack driver you know the one you hit with a hammer.

I use mine all the time

[Triggerh4ppy]

Nahh I dont think I wanna do it anymore.Looks like the screw is not only cross threaded but maybe rust,or fossilized cosmoline is stopping the scre from coming out.

[Little Cloud]

PB Blaster usually does the trick for me.

[Bender]

pb blaster is the shizz works great on rust caked exahust mani bolts

[The Lost]

sounds like a real conundrum. again if you are intent, you gotta let those threads soak real good in a solvent based lubricant. some were already named but WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc were some examples given. keep applying just a TINY bit every hour or so as it does evaporate, repeat for a good day and then with the right kind of heat/pressure it should pop right on out.

im also sure an armorer would charge a minimal fee to break that free for you, and then the liability of any damage is on him =D I know it defeats the purpose of the do it yourselfer job but some things are just too precious to risk breaking permanently and what good does that do anyone?

[762xIan]

Like a heat gun because you don't really want to take the torch to it, lol. never tried touching a soldering iron on a screw to heat it up, but that would probably work too,

I have used a soldering iron before and it worked well, mine has tips you can change and I ground one down to fit perfectly in the slotted screw head. A minute or two of heat....and a minute or so to let the heat "migrate" through the metal and it worked well. I used this technique on the front sight screw on a Ruger pistol, and the trigger guard screws on a Mauser. Worked very well.

If you plan on taking down your guns often, I highly recommend a good set of hollow ground screwdrivers. They fit the slotted heads perfectly and won't bugger them up.

Link to definition of "hollow ground screwdriver": http://www.midwayusa.com/guntecdicti...rm?TermID=2791

I have a set of Forster's: http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24836

[Triggerh4ppy]

I am definitely going to get some nice screw drivers in the future.That and brass punches and a mallet.I dont think im going to screw around with this one anymore.Going to clean up the slot and re blue it one of these days.

[dteed4094]

The problem with heating the screw is you are expanding it, You have to heat the surrounding metal which enlarges the hole only while it is hot. When it cools down, it shrinks it and makes it even tighter. The best way to remove an impossible is to drill it out with the proper sized reverse bit. If it does not come out in the drilling process, re tap the hole and replace the screw. Depending on the properties of the metal the screw is made from compared to the surrounding metal, freezing may help but you have to work fast.