Wheelgun Carry Questions

[rwb1500]

I am a total novice in the revolver department. I'm thinking about a .38 or .357 for carry. I've got plenty of experience with autos and firearms in general, but basically none with wheelguns. Most of my questions partain to carry.

Hammers. Exposed? Bobbed? Shrouded? I'm confused. Do I want a revolver that I can shoot SA/DA for carry? Is there any reason to have the SA option on a carry gun? Do I run the risk of snagging an exposed hammer on a piece of clothing, seatbelt, etc? If carrying a SA/DA revolver do you look for a holster that covers the hammer, ie, retaining strap?

I like the idea of being able to shoot single action but is it needed in a purely defensive gun? Of course I'll be shooting the gun at the range a lot. But would I be better off going DAO because in a defensive situation I may not have time to get into SA, and should be prepared for a DA trigger pull?

Lots of questions, I know. Hopefully some of our resident wheelgun experts will be able to help.

[drh 686]

I carry a S&W model 642. I also use a right handed holster on my left side(crossdraw) to move clothing shirts,jackets out of the way with my left hand while drawing the gun with my right hand. Good luck

[tommy610]

If the purpose this is going to be your carry gun, then focus on what makes a good one of those. So yes, considering the hammer is a good idea. You can tell for yourself, without actually getting into a "situation" whether an exposed hammer is going to be an issue. Do some practice draws, based on how you will carry. Do you want to be able to carry it in the pocket of a coat, for instance? If so, you could even pull the trigger from there, if needed. And in that case, yes, the hammer could have a problem.

Like drh, I carry a 642 - hammerless. I have a Robert Mika pocket holster and an Uncle Mike's size 36 IWB, which I wear at 11:00, crossdraw (I'm right-handed). Both of these methods are very easy to carry and conceal.

Do you think having SA available to you will be a requirement for a defensive carry gun? Personally, I don't think so. This gun is a close encounters one. Even if you need it, odds are that you will never be taking time to cock the hammer, aim carefully using sights, and then pick off a hostage taker. If you want SA for the range, I would say go with the shrouded hammer - you sort of get best of both worlds. But if it's your carry weapon, I'd get really good at working with the gun in the exact manner that you will be using it for defense, if indeed that day ever comes.

BTW - the hammer types you listed confuses me... be clear on that, in order of less to more exposure, they are: "hammerless" (e.g. 642), "shrouded", and "exposed".

Good luck with your search.

[imashooter2]

The majority of the time, I pocket carry a 360. When dress permits I'll use a Galco Summer Comfort IWB. My revolver has a full hammer and I practice drawing to avoid any clothing snags. The possibility still remains though. Shrouded or "hammerless" guns remove that possibility.

I cannot picture a defensive scenario where I would want to cock my revolver. No doubt some such situation exists, but the probability would be very, very low.

[rwb1500]

BTW - the hammer types you listed confuses me... be clear on that, in order of less to more exposure, they are: "hammerless" (e.g. 642), "shrouded", and "exposed".

Good luck with your search.

Forgive me if this is a dumb question: What is the fundamental difference between a hammerless model and one with a shrouded hammer? You still have no access to the hammer, correct?

Also, I wasn't clear in my OP. As far as an exposed hammer goes does anyone think that there is a safety risk? ND perhaps from snagging the hammer and them dropping it on a round?

As far as carry goes I'd probably end up carrying it strong side IWB or OWB at somewhere around 3:00, depending on what I'm wearing and what I'm doing, the same way I carry an auto. I would rarely pocket carry since my pockets are usually jammed full of other crap anyway.

Thanks again guys.

[rwb1500]

Scratch what I said above. I Googled shrouded hammer, duhh. I got it now.

[Xringshooter]

Also, I wasn't clear in my OP. As far as an exposed hammer goes does anyone think that there is a safety risk? ND perhaps from snagging the hammer and them dropping it on a round?

If the revolver has a transfer bar (Rugers, and many others now) dropping it on a live round won't do anything unless the trigger is held fully back (this raises the transfer bar which allows the energy of the falling hammer to be transferred to the firing pin.

Even if it had an exposed firing pin (firing pin mounted on the hammer), the chances of a ND by snagging the hammer is negligible, remember, as you are drawing the gun (pulling up and out) a snag on clothing would be forcing the hammer forward, not back (unless you are using a breakfront holster where you push the gun out through the front of the holster). Where it would be pulling the hammer back would be when you would be reholstering the gun. Also, exposed hammer guns have been carried concealed by a lot of people for a lot of years. I carry a Ruger SP101, with an exposed hammer, and have never had any problems.

If you want the ability to cock a DA/SA revolver but minimize the hammer, it can be "bobbed" or "dehorned" in that most of the hammer is removed but enough remains (and is checkered or cut) so that you can get a purchase with your thumb to cock it (similar to the exposure of shrouded hammer gun).

[Steve_NEPhila]

I carry either a Smith and Wesson 642 (pocket carry with holster) or my 386 Mountain Lite (IWB or OWB, and my most often carried weapon). The 642 comes from the factory DAO and the hammer 386 has been de-spurred to use as DAO.

Shooting a revolver in double action is not an impossible skill. In fact, when I go to the range I only shoot DAO and after quite a bit of practice I can print holes in paper better then with cocking the hammer. (especially in my Performance Center guns, both of my 327's print awesome groups double action) In my opinion the hammer spur is just another sharp edge on a revolver that is not necessary. Many people use the single action as a crutch for not practicing enough with shooting double action. However, I challenge you to make the final decision, take a training course in defensive shooting and try cocking the hammer then shooting. I have found that little piece of sharp metal to be worthless and possibly a liability.

As for the revolvers themselves I recommend a few modifications to make a revolver very effective for defense. Have a good gunsmith (like John Robinson at Classic Pistol, he is fantastic) smooth out the action. There is no need for dramatically decreasing the spring weights to make the trigger pull much easier. Just a nice consistent pull from start to finish with a break like glass and you will be on your way. Get the charge holes chamfered, this is a cut made on the charge hole so that it is not just straight, but has an angle to it to allow for easier insertion of cartridges into the holes. Last but not least, get a tritium front night sight. These little radioactive vials of gas that glow green are invaluable and worth every cent.

My ideal carry revolver is below, my dear Smith and Wesson 386 SC Mountain Lite. It is a seven shot .357 Mag (I carry the 158 grain LSWCHP +P .38 special load) with a titanium cylinder and a scandium aluminum frame weighing in at about 19 ounces, just 4 ounces heavier then my 642. I have an XS standard dot tritium front sight and cylinder and slide extreme duty fixed rear sight. The action has been perfected by John Robinson, the charge holes chamfered, hammer bobbed and the grips switched to small Pachmayers. The picture below may have different grips, have not checked it yet.

Practice with both dry firing and with live ammo extensively and your double action shooting ability will dramatically improve.


The 386 is the second one down from the top:

[knight0334]

If the revolver has a transfer bar (Rugers, and many others now) dropping it on a live round won't do anything unless the trigger is held fully back (this raises the transfer bar which allows the energy of the falling hammer to be transferred to the firing pin.

Even if it had an exposed firing pin (firing pin mounted on the hammer), the chances of a ND by snagging the hammer is negligible, remember, as you are drawing the gun (pulling up and out) a snag on clothing would be forcing the hammer forward, not back (unless you are using a breakfront holster where you push the gun out through the front of the holster). Where it would be pulling the hammer back would be when you would be reholstering the gun. Also, exposed hammer guns have been carried concealed by a lot of people for a lot of years. I carry a Ruger SP101, with an exposed hammer, and have never had any problems.

If you want the ability to cock a DA/SA revolver but minimize the hammer, it can be "bobbed" or "dehorned" in that most of the hammer is removed but enough remains (and is checkered or cut) so that you can get a purchase with your thumb to cock it (similar to the exposure of shrouded hammer gun).

Dont forget too that all DAO and DA/SA revolvers built and imported since 1968 are required to have some sort of hammer block, set-back, or transfer bar system - which practically removes all dangers dealing with such matters so long as the trigger isn't pulled back to engage/disengage the safety devices.

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The problem with exposed hammers is for the SAA/cowboy style single action designs and the much older DAO and DA/SA revolvers(before '68).

[wheelman53]

It is my understanding that DAO is the best option from a legal aspect. If a shooting would go to court, it would help in an argument of an accidental or negligent discharge caused by the SA short or hair trigger.