Metal Targets

[mickey01023]

I've been watching shows on shooting competetions and they use metal targets....is their anything special you buy for metal targets and can you use FMJ target loads or do you have to use different ammo, is their a rule of thumb where a 1/4 inch of metal can with stand .357 or something like that?

[Steve in PA]

To really, really be safe you can use frangible ammo. However, you can use FMJ or hollowpoint just make sure you don't get too close as splatter or fragments could cause a problem.

I have access to a plate rack and metal pepper poppers and have shot them with both hollowpoint and FMJ.

[27hand]

I've been watching shows on shooting competetions and they use metal targets....is their anything special you buy for metal targets and can you use FMJ target loads or do you have to use different ammo, is their a rule of thumb where a 1/4 inch of metal can with stand .357 or something like that?

mickey,

The best material to use is AR500 steel. I would go with 3/8"thick up to about .308 /7.62X51 and 1/2" for .308 and heavier calibers.

You can use mild steel for pistol at about 7yds and mild for rifle if it is sacrificial (one session use) but at least 100 yds out.
Mild steel will start to crater and saftey issues arise if a bulllet hits a crater or part of a crater and splashes back at the shooter.

I have seen people get cut with splashback so shoot steel at your own risk.
Personally, I love shooting steel. If I have some time, I'll post a few pics later.


Swinger targets that move when hit have less chance of coming back at you.
Bullets explode when they hit steel and pieces come off the steel at about a 20 degree angle so naturally eye protection and a hat with a brim will protect your eyes from pieces of splashback.

There are a lot of steel target suppliers. I have some resetting speed plates from MGM targets http://www.mgmtargets.com/ but they are costly.

27hand
Here are a few pics showing minor dimples and dangerous craters
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...cp_4947_00.jpg
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...lletcrater.jpg
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...t=dcp_4945.jpg

[falcn]

http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?dir=16|49|890

this place has some good prices.

I love shooting steel. Hans is to blame for that!

[bogey1]

heres a piece of 1" ar/steel as you can see what api's do @ 230 yrds. (50bmg) and the target was on a pretty steep angle, no ricochet, the sound of the impact is unbelievable..

[27hand]

http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?dir=16|49|890

this place has some good prices.

I love shooting steel. Hans is to blame for that!

Sorry for that.

Well, no I'm not!!!!

27hans

[27hand]

Here is a piece of 1/2" thick mild steel and how some pistol and rifle calibers damaged it.
top to bottom IIRC
Top 2 are 7.62X51 NATO left is Ishapore 2A--Right is Spanish FR-8

Hole through is .300 Win Mag 165 gr Wolf

.44 Mag 240 gr out of 7 1/2" Ruger Redhawk and 7.62 X 39 out of AK
This takes us half way down the plate


Next, a bit to the right is a .40 S&W 180 gr Blazer--4" Glock 23
Next 2 to left are my hunting rounds.
170gr flat nosed bullet out of Marlin 30-30 and 150 gr Nosler BT 30.06 out of Rem 760 pumpgun.

Middle bottom is 9mm out of 3 1/2" Kahr P9

Bottom 2 are 5.56 out of 16" AR (right) and 7.62X39 out of SKS

I shot these at about 15 yds.
The plate was not secured so it had ability to move backward at impact.
I set up a paper target next to the steel to try to see exactly where the bullet hit was and aimed accordingly to try and space the hits for clarity.

Had some time that day.


This is a piece of 3/8" stainless steel with a .44mag hit and a .40 S&W

range about 10 yds

[brian]

heres a piece of 1" ar/steel as you can see what api's do @ 230 yrds. (50bmg) and the target was on a pretty steep angle, no ricochet, the sound of the impact is unbelievable..

that is not ar, it's probably a36...regular ol steel. you can see how soft it is by the large "splashes", ar will never do that...it can't.
i have a piece of 3/8" ar500 hit with a 50bmg ball at 100 yards, and it is barely even dented...to the point of having a hard time photoing the "damage".

[brian]

... is their a rule of thumb where a 1/4 inch of metal can with stand .357 or something like that?

no.
the only thing really close to a rule of thumb is "hard plate, high speed".
one solid do not ever break can't step across line, rule is, if shooting steel eye protection is a must. shooting anything it is strongly encouraged, but with steel targets it is a repeatable must.
the harder the plate and the higher the speed of the bullets the better.
lead is best for steel, it will completely splatter on impact.
jacketed pistol rounds can throw the jacket around or even bounce it back, some times with enough gusto to yield a minor scratch. however most times it's just enough to let you know something came back.
jacketed rifle rounds leave very little mass of anything to go anywhere far. however the area immediately in front of and to the sides will be torn up from the bits.

shooting steel is incredibly fun, however there risks involved.....risks that can be covered with safety glasses.

[tlgpa]

is their anything special you buy for metal targets

SHOOTING GLASSES!!!

One time shooting pistols @20yrds my son had splatter bounce back, hit his knuckle, and drew blood. I've had splatter hit me at 20yrds but never draw blood. I was quite shocked. But if it had hit someones eye, it would've been pretty serious.