PT 1911 safety problem

[crlovel]

That is the second time I saw those grips on the black PT-1911 and they make the gun look AWESOME! Is there any grips you know of that would compliment the stainless PT as well? Now I'm kinda pissed I didn't get the black one. LOL

Go look at VZ Grips and at Esmeralda's Grips. Both make grips that would look perfect on a SS 1911.

[NineseveN]

That's how every semi-auto pistol's trigger should be shot.

You know, some would disagree with you there, but I'm not one of them. Of course, what in the hell do I know?

[synergy]

You know, some would disagree with you there, but I'm not one of them. Of course, what in the hell do I know?

Thats ok, people are allowed to be wrong from time to time.

[Lycanthrope]

Thats ok, people are allowed to be wrong from time to time.

You know....I think I remember that Rob Leatham has used trigger slapping on more than one occasion.....

Lycanopinionsvaryontheapplicationthrope

[NineseveN]

Thats ok, people are allowed to be wrong from time to time.

I've never been able to get the "slap" technique to work for me, but I know quite few that do run it well, and run handguns in general with more speed and proficiency than most others. But I suspect that there is some validity in stating that those people could run nearly that fast and that well with either technique, provided both were equally comfortable for them.

[synergy]

You know....I think I remember that Rob Leatham has used trigger slapping on more than one occasion.....

Lycanopinionsvaryontheapplicationthrope

I know...a lot of guys in that crowd do.

But slapping a 2.5# 1911 trigger at cardboard is a different thing that slapping a 5.5#+ trigger at potential threats.

[NineseveN]

I know...a lot of guys in that crowd do.

But slapping a 2.5# 1911 trigger at cardboard is a different thing that slapping a 5.5#+ trigger at potential threats.

Rob Leatham: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...s_/ai_n6204146

"I have found trigger manipulation and fire control are, by far, more important. Mistakes I've made in training or in tournaments are around poorly-fired shots, not poorly aimed shots. The trigger finger goes squarely across the face of the trigger so it can press the trigger straight back. I don't agree with a lot of other instructors on the forward movement of the trigger finger after the sear breaks. Many instructors say you should keep the finger on the trigger at all times, letting the trigger move forward under control just to the point where the trigger resets. I don't do it that way. The instant the sear breaks my trigger finger moves forward, off the trigger. Sometimes it will move so far forward I'll hit the inside front of the trigger guard with the finger.

"I've experimented with both ways. Keeping the finger constantly on the trigger, letting it move ahead just enough to reset and then pressing again, is slightly faster, I agree. But the margin of speed is very small. The bad side of this method is you might not let the trigger move ahead far enough to reset. If the trigger doesn't reset, obviously the gun won't fire when you press the trigger. You have to release it again to reset. By then you may be swinging to another target or even starting to move to another position. Then you've really lost time. Releasing the trigger completely as I do may be marginally slower, but it is more reliable and consistent. I never have to worry about those trigger stumbles which really eat up time. And I can use the same technique on any gun, whether it's a 1911, Springfield XD, or revolver."

He makes sense, and some of us do carry guns with sub 5.5lb trigger pulls, but I still just can't get it to feel right for me. However, to your point, when I tried to ride the trigger to reset on Lycan's Edge, I failed to reset the trigger fully a couple of times. That was the one and only time I shot it, and perhaps I could have gotten used to it, so I don't know that I can draw any real conclusions on the matter from my experience.

[synergy]

Well, again, a case of what works well for a GM doesn't necessarily mean it'll work well for you.

The XD has a long weak reset, and his 1911's undoubtly have light trigger with minimal movement...a revolver requires the trigger move the complete distance to reset. All three pistols in this example wouldn't see much trouble from breaking contact with the trigger.

Riding the reset doesn't work well on some guns, agreed. My solution to that problem is to not buy/ carry those guns..as there really isn't any reason for me to, anyway.

Personlly, my fingers are so long that I have to press the trigger with my finger further into the trigger guard than most people do....I see a lot of sight picture movement when I break contact with the trigger and try and slap through it all w/o staging it.

In short, I see far more problems with shot placement from slapping through a triggers take-up and break point (2 seperate weights), than I have had a failure to reset a pistol like the Glock. This experience mirrors what many others have to say, also.

I have had failures to reset the trigger on the M&P, Para's LDA, Sig DAK's, and Sig conventional DA/SA's.

[Go2fish]

I have this same pistol and the ambi safety on the left side of the gun (holding the gun, just popped out after about 10 rounds. I want to replace the ambi, hammer and and slide release as you state should be done. What brand of part can I purchase to replace these parts? Do you know a web site I can order the parts from? Cost?
Go2fish

Like I tell the customers in my shop Taurus makes a GOOD 1911 for the price! After you buy one, replace the Hammer,The thumb safety and the slide release and then you have a GREAT 1911 that will out live YOU.

Old style ambi safety,small lever goes under the right grip panel. If the groove in the grip is too shallow or not cut for an ambi then the grip can push in on the safety which pushes out on the left side just enough for the safety detent to go BLING across the room. Change it out to a PINNED ambi safety and problem solved.


JMHO and I don't have one in front of me but thats my memory from 4 days ago

Rich W.

[Steeltown]

I have this same pistol and the ambi safety on the left side of the gun (holding the gun, just popped out after about 10 rounds. I want to replace the ambi, hammer and and slide release as you state should be done. What brand of part can I purchase to replace these parts? Do you know a web site I can order the parts from? Cost?
Go2fish

I am having my ambi safety replaced with a Wilson single sided safety, my gunsmith quoted me about $30 for the parts. The safety on my gun always felt a little sloppy and with all the reports posted about problems with the ambi safety I just decided to have it replaced.