Polymer 80 Glock build

[HKusp 45]

so midway has some frames (full size version 2 aka g17) and readymod 26s for $75.00 right now

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?promotionid=1220370

I also suggest these
https://www.opticsplanet.com/strike-...for-glock.html

Also after several builds I have learned that if you trim the rails then put in (not actually install but set in place properly) the locking block and the rear rails
it helps true the holes for the trigger pins and trigger housing in respectively when you drill them out acts as a guide.

I've always polished my trigger bar smoother pull, Also Ghost just turned out this new connecter called the angel, Installed it into my latest / current almost finished build. No bump smoother than silk

https://ghostinc.com/the-pistol/ghos...ors/angel-3-0/

Oh and if you want a decent price on a solid complete all be it expensive but quality slide aero has 25% off gray ghost precision slides and parts (including the complete slide assy.) right now I went V2 for my latest 19 build I am not done yet but close and I love the way it feels (the whole gun not just the slide.) discount applied in cart

https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/handguns

If your looking for the absolute best regular price on the frames (when they are in stock and in most cases even with shipping) guns2ammo was a great find your best searching by brands they carry to find them all and add to cart for best price generally around $91.00 in most cases. Less for the AR10 and ar15 if your into that sort of thing.

https://guns2ammo.com/product-manufacturer/polymer80

need a slide completion kit right now dvor has the shadow systems kit for $56.00 right now ...they were $49.00 last month but that was then
https://www.dvor.com/shadow-systems-...k-pistols.html

Need lower parts Combat armory currently has some small parts add the coupon code take15 and get 15% off and free shipping not a bad deal. They also
have Glock 26 barrels now too for less than $50.00 I have one of their 19 barrels on a build but it works.

http://www.combatarmory.com/

Midway also has the factory lower parts kits in stock and on sale right now $44.99 I don't bother because I change out the connector, the pins, the mag release the slide stop, trigger spring, and the slide stop release for "better stuff" so to speak. so it's not really worth it but hey if your doing a budget build or just like factory stuff because it's proven its a great deal.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...en-3-9mm-luger.

Cool back plates

http://www.squirreldaddy.com/category-s/344.htm

I'm sure there's more and currently optics plant has the trijicon suppressor height night sights for $90.00 after 10% off if your running an rmr and need a good set of cowitness sights. (which I will be).

https://www.opticsplanet.com/trijico...een-lamps.html

Here's where I'm at now wth my latest build I went readymod originally because of the sale but I am really happy with the way i managed to get the stippling to turn out. Oh and yes this has gone from just want to build one to a freakin hobby that keeps costing me money damnit.


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[blau iii]

What trigger bar are you using on the subcompact frame? A gen 4 won't work if you are building a G26 as you will need a gen 3 trigger bar.

Also, did you polish the rear rail module? When I was building my first poly80...I watched a youtube vid where people would polish the rear rail module with dremel and polishing wheel. I used a polishing wheel with Fritz polish that I had and it worked like a charm. I wanted to make sure that all contact points with the slide was going to be burr-free.

So i got it halfway figured out. I filed the tops of the rear rail and polished the rest of it and the front block. Slide moves so much better now and releases correctly. I also cleaned up the front channel where the recoil spring goes. But now, I'm running into issues with the trigger not "clicking" if that makes sense. It will reset correctly with the slide but when I squeeze the trigger, it's not breaking. I thought the gen 3 and gen 4 26's were all the same internally. I bought the Lone Wolf OEM kit for subcompacts. They didn't offer any generational kits for the subs. I called lone wolf and emailed p80, both are telling me it's the other party's issue. I even called brownells to see if they new of known part compatability with their slides, they didn't have anything useful. If I didn't have a shaved head, I'd be bald after this one. Lone wolf's solution was for me to buy their trigger, bar and rear housing to the tune of another $60 but I don't want to just throw parts at this build.

[HKusp 45]

So i got it halfway figured out. I filed the tops of the rear rail and polished the rest of it and the front block. Slide moves so much better now and releases correctly. I also cleaned up the front channel where the recoil spring goes. But now, I'm running into issues with the trigger not "clicking" if that makes sense. It will reset correctly with the slide but when I squeeze the trigger, it's not breaking. I thought the gen 3 and gen 4 26's were all the same internally. I bought the Lone Wolf OEM kit for subcompacts. They didn't offer any generational kits for the subs. I called lone wolf and emailed p80, both are telling me it's the other party's issue. I even called brownells to see if they new of known part compatability with their slides, they didn't have anything useful. If I didn't have a shaved head, I'd be bald after this one. Lone wolf's solution was for me to buy their trigger, bar and rear housing to the tune of another $60 but I don't want to just throw parts at this build.

do you mean the wall at which the trigger breaks or the actual reset after you squeeze? also may depend on which connector you installed. It's tough without holding it and feeling exactly what your feeling.

[blau iii]

do you mean the wall at which the trigger breaks or the actual reset after you squeeze? also may depend on which connector you installed. It's tough without holding it and feeling exactly what your feeling.

When I squeeze the trigger, it doesn't "click". it's not engaging the firing pin. I tested the safety button and firing pin on the slide, they function correctly. The trigger resets when I rack the slide. something isn't engaging with between the trigger/firing pin when assembled. It's an OEM kit and connector.

[HKusp 45]

When I squeeze the trigger, it doesn't "click". it's not engaging the firing pin. I tested the safety button and firing pin on the slide, they function correctly. The trigger resets when I rack the slide. something isn't engaging with between the trigger/firing pin when assembled. It's an OEM kit and connector.

Check your trigger housing if it's a lone wolf and it's adjustable for pre travel that may be the issue could also be the adjustment screw. Oh also check the trigger safety make sure it's locking in place.

[HKusp 45]

actually it would have to be the trigger housing in the rear it must not be releasing the striker or holding the striker to be released now that I'm looking at mine. can you take a picture of the frame rear rails without the slide on. now that I reread it your firing pin must not be locking in place. there might be enough of a variance in space that it's not catching.

[jthrelf]

So i got it halfway figured out. I filed the tops of the rear rail and polished the rest of it and the front block. Slide moves so much better now and releases correctly. I also cleaned up the front channel where the recoil spring goes. But now, I'm running into issues with the trigger not "clicking" if that makes sense. It will reset correctly with the slide but when I squeeze the trigger, it's not breaking. I thought the gen 3 and gen 4 26's were all the same internally. I bought the Lone Wolf OEM kit for subcompacts. They didn't offer any generational kits for the subs. I called lone wolf and emailed p80, both are telling me it's the other party's issue. I even called brownells to see if they new of known part compatability with their slides, they didn't have anything useful. If I didn't have a shaved head, I'd be bald after this one. Lone wolf's solution was for me to buy their trigger, bar and rear housing to the tune of another $60 but I don't want to just throw parts at this build.

There's a very strong possibility that your rear rail module isn't providing enough clearance for the trigger bar to move completely backward and release the striker, hence no click. Look at the curve in your trigger bar, move it back and forth and see if it's close to or hitting the one corner of the rear rail module. If yes, then take out the module and grind away some material. After that, the trigger bar will be able to move backward enough to complete the striker release. If this is the case, it's a very easy fix to make with your file or dremel and no new parts required.

[blau iii]

Check your trigger housing if it's a lone wolf and it's adjustable for pre travel that may be the issue could also be the adjustment screw. Oh also check the trigger safety make sure it's locking in place.

That's a great idea, I'll take a look at that tonight. I have OEM triggers in my other glocks so I never thought to check this. The trigger safety appears to be functioning correctly. I am able to manipulate the firing pin when the slide is off and I press on the safety.

actually it would have to be the trigger housing in the rear it must not be releasing the striker or holding the striker to be released now that I'm looking at mine. can you take a picture of the frame rear rails without the slide on. now that I reread it your firing pin must not be locking in place. there might be enough of a variance in space that it's not catching.

I'll take a picture tonight. everything looks the same as my other two glocks. One oem gen 4 19 and one p80 g19.

There's a very strong possibility that your rear rail module isn't providing enough clearance for the trigger bar to move completely backward and release the striker, hence no click. Look at the curve in your trigger bar, move it back and forth and see if it's close to or hitting the one corner of the rear rail module. If yes, then take out the module and grind away some material. After that, the trigger bar will be able to move backward enough to complete the striker release. If this is the case, it's a very easy fix to make with your file or dremel and no new parts required.

I filed down that little nub on the right hand side (from the back of the gun) and made it even with the frame inside that little well.

[HKusp 45]

Well mines finally complete can't wait to take her on a run and fine sight the rmr inAttachment 115076