Considering a 1911

[JCinPA]

A photo of my son's graduation pistol pre-customization.

[JCinPA]

Oh, forgot, Dan Wesson is also an excellent choice, you'll note that more than one person has suggested one. Great guns.

[JAKIII]

Springfield Armory in the lead...

[oldengineer]

Another Springfield vote - same gun as JAKs

[IMG]174563[/IMG]

[JCinPA]

It's very hard to argue with a Springer for a base gun for customization. I like John Harrison's parts, and on a Springer (probably also on a Tisas) you can leave the barrel and bushing alone, the grip safety, and the mag release, too. If it was me, I'd replace the slide stop, extractor, ignition kit (hammer, sear, disconnector, thumb safety), and the firing pin stop. You can get them all on John Harrison's site to save on shipping, then find a good 1911 smith to install it all for you. A larger stocking gun dealer that sells a lot of 1911s should be able to point you in the direction of a good one.

I like these parts


Extractor: https://harrisoncustom.com/extreme-service-extractor
Slide stop:
Ignition set: https://harrisoncustom.com/hd-120-b-...-coated-hammer
Hammer strut & pin: https://harrisoncustom.com/hd-125-ex...mmer-strut-pin
Firing pin stop: https://harrisoncustom.com/hd-205-ex...iring-pin-stop
Wide thumb safety: https://harrisoncustom.com/extreme-service-thumb-safety
Narrow thumb safety: https://harrisoncustom.com/extreme-s...c-thumb-safety

Those fitted to a Springfield should stay inside your $2,000 budget yet it will be an heirloom pistol for your grandson that he will treasure for a lifetime. I like the wide thumb safety, as I ride the safety with my thumb while shooting. Many prefer the narrow safety, it's a personal preference thing, I think most prefer the narrow for esthetics--the look. But if you're going to have it customized, if you replace the ignition group, replace the thumb safety, too those parts work together as a finely tuned package.

Although you'll want to give your grandson a "new" gun, I'd suggest you wring it out thoroughly. The oversized slide stop will make the gun tighter. I put 900 rounds through my son's gun, all malfunctions shot out in the first 500 though. Load all the magazines and let them sit for several days, new mags can cause problems (springs are too tight) but a couple days loaded usually sorts that out. You don't want to do anything to the firing pin stop but shoot it. If it makes the gun tight, that's a good thing, it will shoot itself in over time. Once it's been wrung out and running good, you can have a smith give it an ultrasound cleaning, lube it up very well all over and put it back in the original package.

I gave my son the work invoice from John Harrison, a shooting log where I listed all malfunctions and when they stopped, then had it thoroughly cleaned and gave him the package with the invoice and log and nice letter from me. He'll probably pass that along to his son someday.

Optional: you can have the smith replace the barrel bushing, too, which will make it tighter, but also more accurate. I like the Bunker Arms radial bore bushings John Harrison sells, they are the best IMO and come either blued or in SS. They get you the tightest fit without fear of barrel springing. https://harrisoncustom.com/hd-500-580

When you are done with this project you'll have a gun that is 95% of a Wilson Combat or Nighthawk Custom, but at about half the price. I'm pretty confident you can have this done within your $2,000 budget.

Edit: Almost forgot. Put in a Wilson Combat flat wire spring and guide rod, they last pretty much forever. If you keep the gun's original barrel bushing, disassemble the traditional way. If you have the bushing replaced, learn to disassemble the slide stop first method and teach it to your grandson. https://wilsoncombat.com/recoil-spri...size-17lb.html

The firing pin stop I recommended is not rounded on the bottom edge that contacts the hammer, it's only lightly radiused. It results in a softer shooting gun by reducing mechanical leverage (contacts the hammer further down, closing to the hammer pin). With that FP stop and the flatwire spring, you should not need the SHOK-BUFF that comes with the spring kit. Opinions are split on whether they are a boon or the work of the devil. Probably won't hurt to use it, but probably not necessary. I don't use them, personally.

[chp1911]

I am partial to Kimber's line up. I have 6 of their pistols, 4 full size and 2 commader sized.

[Brick]

I strongly recommend a Dan Wesson 1911, and in particular a "Commander" configuration with the bobbed rear bottom of the grip:




snipped to keep it neat!
Noah

I'm with Noah on this! Get a "Commander" version regardless of what brand you buy! New or used! I carried GI 1911s for many years as my assigned weapon in the Army. I've shot and owned several for use in both NRA Conventional and Miliatry/CMP Hardball Competition and even IDPA.

[free]

I'm with Noah on this! Get a "Commander" version regardless of what brand you buy! New or used! I carried GI 1911s for many years as my assigned weapon in the Army. I've shot and owned several for use in both NRA Conventional and Miliatry/CMP Hardball Competition and even IDPA.

Why a "Commander" version?

[Noah_Zark]

The Commander is lighter and "handier" to carry and conceal due to the 1" shorter barrel and slide and the bobbed grip frame which doesn't "print" under clothing quite as much as a standard grip frame. If the trigger pull is right, the shorter 4" barrel gives up nothing in accuracy to the 5 inch "Government Model" and other "standard configuration" 1911 pistols.

Noah

[free]

The Commander is lighter and "handier" to carry and conceal due to the 1" shorter barrel and slide and the bobbed grip frame which doesn't "print" under clothing quite as much as a standard grip frame. If the trigger pull is right, the shorter 4" barrel gives up nothing in accuracy to the 5 inch "Government Model" and other "standard configuration" 1911 pistols.

Noah

Thanks!