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I purchased a Savage FCP 110 in 300 win mag a week ago and I am very excited to shoot it, however I have never bought a mount/rings/ or a scope before so I am not sure what I need.
I have been doing some quick research and have found that Burris seems to be a great name. I was looking at their 30mm signature series rings on their pickatinny mount. Does that sound like a solid combo? My next question. Is this a DIY job, or is this something I should have a professional do (which I dont mind) especially since the rifle was expensive. Now onto optics, Im looking for something affordable, yet something I can have some fun with at the range. I hope Im not coming off as too much of a newb, but all of the rifles I own already had scopes on them when I got them. By the way, Im in Macungie, PA which is close to Emmaus and Allentown. |
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These questions are kind of like the debate over which caliber is best....everybody has an opinion.
Over the years people that have mounted scopes on various guns tend to develop preferences as to how we do it and what we use. If you take your time there is no big mystery to scope mounting. I prefer a one-piece base - preferably a Picatinney rail, as it gives you some flexibility as to where the rings can mount (fore & aft) to better adapt to a variety of scope tubes and help with proper eye relief. Regardless what base(s) you choose, if you use steel rings (and steel rings should not be used on aluminum bases) the rings should be lapped (with the exceptions noted below) - this increases the contact area between the scope and rings, which lessens the chance of movement under recoil and/or ring marks or deformation on/of the scope tube. Lapping requires the purchase of some additional tools. Midway has a set that includes both alignment and lapping tools. If this is probably the only scope that you'll be mounting, you will probably want to forego this added expense. In leiu of lapping, there are two alternatives: 1) The Burris rings with the palstic inserts. These give full tube contact and prevent marring. Plus you can get offset inserts to compensate for poor scope base alignment or add elevation adjustment. I personally have never used these, but have friends that swear by them. Logic would think these less desirable on heavy recoiling firearms, but I can't tell you that with certainty. And, 2) TSP rings. They make these in both aluminum and steel and to mount on Picatinney or Weaver rails. They're made in three different heights and several diameters. TSP's claim to fame is that they are so precision machined that lapping is unecessary. The mounting instructions actually specify that, after proper crosshair alignment, you completely tighten one side of the rings and then tighten the other. Since they are so precisely machined no scope rotation occurs - and that has been my experience with the ones that I have used. I have also removed a scope mounted with these and there were no ring marks. Rather than trying to determine scope height by head placement (cheek weld) I prefer to try and get the scope as close to the bore centerline as possible. Most correctly ergonomically engineered stocks will allow for good cheek weld with the scope mounted thusly. By keeping it as close to the bore centerline as possible, you minimize parallax. If you intend to use lens covers (like Butler Creek) make sure you leave enough clearance between the barrel and the objective bell. As to the glass itself, again a myriad of possibilities and opinions. My opinion, FWIW, is that you don't spend good money on a rifle and then put cheap glass on it. My preferences for glass would be: Leupold, Bushnell 3200, 4200 or 6500 Elite, Weaver V, T or Grand Slam or Burris. Better to buy quality and only cry once. Probably more than you wanted to know and I hope that I haven't scared you off this project. I think you will get a better job, taking your time and doing it yourself, than taking it to someone else to mount. They have little vested interest in the outcome and may cut corners after mounting hundreds of scopes. Read all the articles you can find, ask questions, get quality components and do it yourself. Good luck. Adios, Pizza Bob |
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Thanks for the advice guys, I havent purchased anything yet due to lack of funds for play things, so she sits.
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I agree with Lycan in that you have to make sure that you get "good" rings and a base. No point going through the frustration of having a rifle that shoots great then all of the send shit breaks.
As for the scope, what type of shooting are you planning on doing and at what distances?
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WTB - NDS3 or NDS1 receiver FTF |
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If you do decide to mount the scope yourself, here is a good article on one way to do it. I have mounted several. It is very easy, and the only one that I have ever had a problem with is one that was done by a dealer.
Scope leveling article |
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Im looking at the bushnel tactical elite 3200.
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WEAVER BASE/RINGS. SIMMONS W/T CLASSIC. SEE MIDWAY USA
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The 3200 line is pretty nice glass. I have a Bushnell production overrun scope that is built to 3200 standards and it is excellent. I also have a Tactical 4200 Elite. The upper end Bushnell products (3200, 4200, 6500) are great. A Picatinny rail and a set of TSP rings and you're all set. Good luck.
Adios, Pizza Bob
__________________
NRA Endowment Member |
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