refinishing an ak stock and handguard

[glockmaster]

Would like to get the color of my wasr's wood furniture that "russian red" cherry wood type of color. I'm thinking of this process after taping off the metal areas:

1. steel wool to areas to smooth it out
2. some type of cherry wood stain
3. coat of lacquer
4. "fine" steel wool
5. 2nd coat of lacquer
6. buff again with steel wool.

This is probably just one way of doing it and i got it from youtube, but they didn' list products used or show the process, just the finished product.

Anyone have better ideas or can give me any tips, please be specific. Thanks!!

[PhilaShooter]

Would like to get the color of my wasr's wood furniture that "russian red" cherry wood type of color. I'm thinking of this process after taping off the metal areas:

1. steel wool to areas to smooth it out
2. some type of cherry wood stain
3. coat of lacquer
4. "fine" steel wool
5. 2nd coat of lacquer
6. buff again with steel wool.

This is probably just one way of doing it and i got it from youtube, but they didn' list products used or show the process, just the finished product.

Anyone have better ideas or can give me any tips, please be specific. Thanks!!

I did the same thing to a set of wood furniture not too long ago, came out EXCELLENT. Coinsidently I had a guy refinishing my wood floors and counter tops when I was starting this project, lucky me ! I asked him about refinishing wood and staining it and all, even showed him waht I was working with. He suggested to me to use the finest sand paper and instead of the regular sheets of sand paper, to use a sponge, block type sand paper, not sure of the exact name of it. It's just a soft sponge like, block shaped sand paper. Also to make sure and go with the grain at ALL times. I did just like he said until all the original staining was off and there was a nice smooth finish.

Then I used MINWAX Wood Finish, IIRC the color was Sedona Red 222. I am almost positive it was that color but I also bought MINWAX Wood Finish Red Chestnut 232....if needed I still have both cans of finish I could break them open and go over a piece of scrap wood for you to see which one exactly it was.

IIRC I put like 2-3 very light coats on to make sure ALL the wood was covered the same, extremly lightly sanded again and put one more finishing coat then lightly sanded and put the lacquer on. Depending on how light or dark you want it would depend on how many coats you use.

There may be a closer wood finish to that "Russian Red" that you want but I was going for the same look and I think mine turned out darn close.

I also didn't think of using steel wool as I just went with what the guy said, figured he's a pro with wood finishing so he should know what he's talking about. You have to be VERY VERY careful when sanding as if you sand to hard or to much in an area it will take too much wood away.

NOTE: watch using wood fillers also...I tried using some because I moved the sling attachment from the bottom to the side (I'm left handed and for a lefty original sling mount spots are HORRIBLE) when I started to stain the stock the spot where I used the wood filler came out like CRAP, was brutally horrible honestly....I had to resand and start all over because of it. Good Luck

[Asmodeus6]

So I shouldn't have went at the stock with my rotary sander on "FURY" mode?

Because that's what it took to get the black paint off the back of the stock... actually I hit the whole damn thing because that varnish / laquer they use is basically impossible to sand off. Seems like it's in the wood too and changes the color. Because where the paint was, it's different.

Bah...

This is a pita. I should have bought a good stripper and skipped the "hours sanding" part.

I'm doing the same thing, just not red. And realizing I may not have the patience for this type of task...

[PhilaShooter]

So I shouldn't have went at the stock with my rotary sander on "FURY" mode?

Because that's what it took to get the black paint off the back of the stock... actually I hit the whole damn thing because that varnish / laquer they use is basically impossible to sand off. Seems like it's in the wood too and changes the color. Because where the paint was, it's different.

Bah...

This is a pita. I should have bought a good stripper and skipped the "hours sanding" part.

I'm doing the same thing, just not red. And realizing I may not have the patience for this type of task...

Hmm, the furniture I had did not have black anywhere, that I remember at least lol, and the lacquer and finish came off fairly easy as well. Maybe mine were much older and worn out a lot or something... The thing that REALLY screwed me was that (beeping) wood filler...the one that states RIGHT ON the tube that it can be stained and will come out just like the rest of the wood.....(beeping) WRONG !!! I used the filler waited a day for it to dry sanded it and all then put my first coat on...finally....right away I could see it was comming out a diffrent color. I was so pissed, had to let dry and sand everything all over again and remove the filler, so I couldn't fill the holes...grrr.

If I even attempt to do it again it's gotta be very nice wood with no holes or anything that would need filling, then I would give it another go around.

[thefirstndsecond]

When I redid my gun stock I followed this:

1) Used the orange gel and coated the stock to remove old finish. Let it sit 30 minutes and then washed off with light brush.

2) then I used krud cutter to get all of the chemical and oil off the wood. wiped dry. Let it sit for 2 days or until fully dry.

3)Sanded the stock using 400; 600; 800: dry sand paper

4) Then used a tack cloth to remove all of the dust.

5) used walnut stain; you can use what ever color stain you wish. You may even use minwax stain for desired color

6) let the stain dry for a day or two

7) Used true oil to add coats, inbetween coats i used 0000 steel wool, and 1500 wet dry sand paper, little bit of water and sanded jsut to get dust off the wood inbetween coats.

Check the link for pictures.

http://forum.pafoa.org/gunsmithing-4...rem-stock.html

[PhilaShooter]

When I redid my gun stock I followed this:

1) Used the orange gel and coated the stock to remove old finish. Let it sit 30 minutes and then washed off with light brush.

2) then I used krud cutter to get all of the chemical and oil off the wood. wiped dry. Let it sit for 2 days or until fully dry.

3)Sanded the stock using 400; 600; 800: dry sand paper

4) Then used a tack cloth to remove all of the dust.

5) used walnut stain; you can use what ever color stain you wish. You may even use minwax stain for desired color

6) let the stain dry for a day or two

7) Used true oil to add coats, inbetween coats i used 0000 steel wool, and 1500 wet dry sand paper, little bit of water and sanded jsut to get dust off the wood inbetween coats.

Check the link for pictures.

http://forum.pafoa.org/gunsmithing-4...rem-stock.html

Nice job, wood came out very nice. What condition was it in before you started ?

I should take some pics of the wood I did, I was a first timer lol but I think it came out nice.

[thefirstndsecond]

The beginning pics of the posted link show it. It was flaky, dark pitted, rough, just old and peeling.

I removed the stock and the fire grip form the gun. Left the butt plate on and taped over the edges when I decided to sand the stock.

I did not want to loose the original form.