im wanting to paint my slide is thier anything store bought i can use that works great?
looking for a flat black
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im wanting to paint my slide is thier anything store bought i can use that works great?
looking for a flat black
I really think you're better off just having it duracoated than painted...
No.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog84
10 char
bigdog,
go to the gunsmith section and look at the pictures I posted under the CeraKote thread. Look at the Smith 638. That is a color called sniper gray. The slide on the Kahr is graphite black. Both are not actually as glossy as it looks, some of that is from the flash (plus you can mix the two parts of the coating to get varying degrees of flat to glossy).
Otherwise, to get a flat black (?) you would probably want to get it parkerized.
Go www.brownells.com and order their polymer gun paint, comes in a ugly brown can but boy is it good especially if you use the baked on method but that requires the use of a oven when your wife/gf is out of the house .
It is tough as nails and wont chip,scratch or flake off easily
years ago i put iot on my Sigma and my AK Norinco and they are still going strong this paint is made specifically for Guns.
what ever you use don,t forget prep is everything if you want good results. i like durakote, it has no oven time and has held up well for me. keep in mind it can take several days to cure to full hardness. matte, semi-gloss, gloss are all attainable with this product. btw it does not have a good shelf life so do not buy more than you need.
If you want it to last cerakote it and for flat black ,armor black will to the job right.
Obviously, Cerakote and Durakote are your best options (in that order, as well), but if you want to do it from a store bought paint, then Krylon acrylic enamel is probably your best bet. You will need to scuff the heck out of any part of the slide you want the paint to stick to with a green Scotch Brite pad (this alone will kill the value of your gun). It has to be scuffed, well. Also, it has to be 100% free of contaminates before you spray it. Acrylic enamel will fish eye at the hint of any oil present. The good thing about a Krylon paint job is it will cure hard enough to clean with a solvent, but it takes a couple of weeks for this to happen. A low heat bake (120 degrees) will speed this up a little, but time is your best friend. Best thing is paint, let dry, then put in your attic for a couple of weeks while it is still warm outside. You will not ever be able to soak the slide in the solvent, but you can clean it and wipe dry. You will not need to use a solvent on the painted surface, anyway. Good thing #2, you can cover the flat black with different lusters, from leaving it flat, to clear satin, to clear gloss. Good thing #3, it is easy to remove and redo, and since it is not epoxy, it is easy to work with and cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog84
My son's PT 1911 slide rusted to hell and I redid it the way I have told you about, over a year and a half ago. It still looks good and it is not flaking, anywhere. If you do this, do on your own accord. I'm retired from the auto industry with over 20 years in paint and body, alone, so I don't mind working with the cheap stuff once in a while. If you know a paint and body person, offer to buy him a pack of beer or something to shoot the slide while he (or she) shoots a fender or bumper. If I have over explained anything, please don't be offended.
For the record, if you are rough with this gun, or it will go in and out of a holster, often, then do not waste your time and money on the Krylon job. Go with Cerokote.
I have not tried it myself, but have been told that automotive engine block paint works very well. Its available at just about any automotive supply store.
thanks guys i think ill just order somthing not sure probley the duracoat
i tried it a few times with bbq paint and kryl9n it just looked like shit so i took it right off but thanks again
chris