Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
A year or so ago I bought a small version of a "tanker" brake for my 6.5 Creedmoor. A desirable relationship of exit hole to bullet diameter is .015" larger on the radius .030" diameter larger than projectile diameter. The hole in the tanker brake, described a la eBay as designed for 6.5 Creedmoor, was .348". I sent it back for obvious incorrect description.
Like most things approaching accomplishment of precision, there are different methods mimicking the scale divided good, better and best.
My Savage FCP-K in .308 has a factory-installed brake having an exit hole of .340"...giving bullet clearance of .016". The rifle is very repeatable accurate well under moa and recoil is well managed by the design of the brake.
A muzzle brake accurately machined and threaded is dependant upon the rifle also being accurately machined and threaded with respect to concentricity with the bore.
When installing an after-market brake, it is recommended that it be done by a gunsmith (best). I believe obtaining the equivalent of a range rod and inserting it through the brake into the bore would tell the tale as to concentricity and clearance... (better).
The arguable "good" is the one I bought for twenty bucks, having an exit hole of .399" for a bullet of .264 diameter. That provides a clearance of .0675" all around the bullet, considerably more than best. It has three baffles with side vents and three holes at the top for anti rise, is nicely machined and finished.
I had watched a you tube testing of this type on up to best (operationally) of a short tanker type. The video convinced me that that the $20 job would accomplish what I want...keeping the target image in the scope during and after discharge.
It does that. Good enough for 100-200 yard range. As for recoil component reduction? That's difficult to say, seat-of-pants. From the deposited smoke on the baffles and in the vertical holes, it has to be reducing it some.
In retrospect, I should have given the sent-back tanker brake a chance. .348" has to be better than .399".
Re: Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
I’m not sure why the concern for recoil comp. with 6.5CM. I built a full custom bench rifle starting with a Savage action. It’s chambered for 260Rem (6.5CM’s big brother) doesn’t have a brake, and recoil is like a kitten. Big reason I chose 6.5mm. And 308 isn’t much worse. 100-200yds isn't even a light stretch or warm up for a 6.5. You mentioned keeping on target. But we’re talking about a bolt action. Racking another round is more of a disturbance to sight acquisition than recoil. Especially with our Savages...heavy bolt lift has has always been a problem. I put some serious work into lightening my bolt lift. I make my own lift kits with Titanium, Tungsten Carbide & Silicone Nitride bb. My rifle has about the lightest bolt lift I’ve seen on a Savage, but it still affects sight acquisition on rechambering. To me it seems people put too much worry into muzzle brake/compensators for calibers that’s don’t really need it. My opinion...I’d rather keep the recessed target crown of the Shilen barrel of my rifle free from any possible intrusion. And with the less expensive brakes, I think a sacrifice in accuracy can always be possible.
This is mine.
https://i.ibb.co/RcR2bMS/7-C1-EBE42-...-A5-E2-C66.jpg
Re: Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
Honestly, the Ebay brakes these days are good. CNC changed everything. Running a large diameter exit hole...oversized to the caliber has been shown to have an effect on efficiency, but not nearly as much as you may think. Big baffles matter more. I ran a .308 brake on one of my 6.5's for a year and I couldn't tell the difference.
Lycandon'toverthinkitthrope
Re: Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
What you described sounds like one of the most popular brake designs - I assume that's because it works well.
When I was looking for one, I watched all the video reviews and read all the articles comparing dozens of them.
It was mind boggling, but I narrowed it down to a few that had impressive results and didn't cost an arm and a leg.
I went with a VooDoo Innovations Jet Comp for my 7.62x39 - it's a copy of a copy of a copy - who knows where the design originated, but I know that Jerry Miculek designed and used one as well. I figured if it works for him, it must be OK.
It works for me too.
https://i.postimg.cc/Dwb1GYjK/20170611-153237.jpg
I thought about the Amazon copies, but decided against it based on the unknown.
I got mine for a good price on sale and didn't have to worry about the quality.
Re: Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
^^^^ Close. Mine has three smaller vertical jets. I wish it had the wrench flats like yours. Have to insert a rod to tighten against a lock nut. Last I fired the 6.5, I watched the (100 yard) groups open up from all 5 touching (.928x.360) to beyond 2 inches. Suspected something had come loose. Something had. The muzzle brake. It gets blue LocTite now. This is a cheap T/C Compass on a Boyds with a Vortex 6-24x50 FFP. It can shoot tighter. Don't think there is an (repeatable) accuracy issue. Shallow V-shaped vertical string was more likely me. Gonna move from 140 SMK to 143 ELD-X and see how the rifle likes them. Thanks for the info, Lycanthrope. Jives with what I believe to be the case.
Re: Cheap muzzle brakes. Worth the try?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Bang
^^^^ Close. Mine has three smaller vertical jets. I wish it had the wrench flats like yours. Have to insert a rod to tighten against a lock nut. Last I fired the 6.5, I watched the (100 yard) groups open up from all 5 touching (.928x.360) to beyond 2 inches. Suspected something had come loose. Something had. The muzzle brake. It gets blue LocTite now. This is a cheap T/C Compass on a Boyds with a Vortex 6-24x50 FFP. It can shoot tighter. Don't think there is an (repeatable) accuracy issue. Shallow V-shaped vertical string was more likely me. Gonna move from 140 SMK to 143 ELD-X and see how the rifle likes them. Thanks for the info, Lycanthrope. Jives with what I believe to be the case.
140 ELD-M at 41.3 H4350 at 2.820. Or.....130gr ELD-M at 42gr H4350. Thank me later.
Stay off heavy pressure on the brakes. I tend to file mine to clock versus a jam not...or crush washer...on a precision rifle. it matters a lot and I can hand tighten them and they don't come loose....even on the 28 Nosler.
Lycanlatetothepartythrope
