Refinishing 870 questions
I am in the market for a used 870. But I was hoping to have it painted with probably OD green on the metal parts since most of the 870's I have been looking at have light surface rust and/or worn out bluing.
What is a decent way to have a long lasting finish?
I was considering just prepping and krylon camo spray canning it.
Or should it be media blasted, then prepped and spray painted. Obviously this would be the better choice, but is it necessary?
What is the best way to remove light surface rust?
I am not looking to spend a fortune on the whole thing since money is tight, otherwise I would consider DLC or ionbond finishes.
I would consider Duracoat though due to its lower price.
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
I vote no on Duracoat before someone suggests it...
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
I'm interested as well. The factory paint job on my mossberg makes it look a little cheap to be honest. I was thinking some kind of matte finish.
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
emsjeep
I vote no on Duracoat before someone suggests it...
So I guess duracoat isn't a great finish?
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
FJR86
So I guess duracoat isn't a great finish?
I did some pretty good surface prep at home and it all just flaked off...the Durabake too...its good on plastic parts, but for metal, its a crap shoot. If you get it done on metal parts send them to someone if you want any chance of it actually working....and even then its still questionable. It is attractive to some people because it is easy to apply with an airbrush and you can make cool designs, but it is less than reliable.
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
emsjeep
I did some pretty good surface prep at home and it all just flaked off...the Durabake too...its good on plastic parts, but for metal, its a crap shoot. If you get it done on metal parts send them to someone if you want any chance of it actually working....and even then its still questionable. It is attractive to some people because it is easy to apply with an airbrush and you can make cool designs, but it is less than reliable.
Did you media blast the parts?
Does anyone have experience with Brownell's AlumaHyde II or their teflon oven baked finishes?
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
emsjeep
I did some pretty good surface prep at home and it all just flaked off...the Durabake too...its good on plastic parts, but for metal, its a crap shoot. If you get it done on metal parts send them to someone if you want any chance of it actually working....and even then its still questionable. It is attractive to some people because it is easy to apply with an airbrush and you can make cool designs, but it is less than reliable.
Hmm, I know lots of people that have had very good results with duracoat and cerakote. There are quite a few tricks to doing it yourself, it has to be done RIGHT. You definitely have to have enough filters in the line to get out ANY water. I'm talking about professionals usually use AT LEAST 6 filters, most I know use more. All of those finishes need to cure, and despite what the packaging or other stuff says, even the baked stuff needs some time to cure. I know the duracoat that you don't bake takes MONTHS to get a decent cure (over 3 months), and that it's still curing even after that, just not as soft. That's why the real deal gets baked on for quite a long time at what most would consider pretty high temperatures, and they still recommend you let it sit a while to cure after that. I know that when applying duracoat and cerakote, the finish can be tricky. You have to get enough on to get a good reliable and hard coat, but if you get too thick of a coat, it takes forever for it to cure right, or it may never, and you'll have it wore off before it does. People I know that do it for a living say that "do it yourself'ers" usually put it on too thick. I know you also have to COMPLETELY degrease it all, and make sure you do NOT touch it again without gloves until it's been coated.
I'm not saying that duracoat is the OP's best solution. What I am saying is that what you are saying is not the norm for people that have it done properly. Your report sounds like some that I've heard from people that got it on too thick, it didn't cure properly, too much water (shouldn't have any), or not completely perfect surface prep. I know that with any finish, once you get it flaking, it'll be gone soon after that. Either way, I don't own any firearms that are duracoated or cerakoted, but some of my very good shooting buddies do, and I get to see and use their firearms with it, all the time. It may not be a "reliable" finish if you did it yourself, but if it's done properly, it's pretty tough, meaning tougher than most other normal finishes found on firearms. I'm not saying it's indestructable or will last forever, just that it's one of the tougher and more durable finishes out there IF it's done properly.
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tomcat088
Hmm, I know lots of people that have had very good results with duracoat and cerakote. There are quite a few tricks to doing it yourself, it has to be done RIGHT. You definitely have to have enough filters in the line to get out ANY water. I'm talking about professionals usually use AT LEAST 6 filters, most I know use more. All of those finishes need to cure, and despite what the packaging or other stuff says, even the baked stuff needs some time to cure. I know the duracoat that you don't bake takes MONTHS to get a decent cure (over 3 months), and that it's still curing even after that, just not as soft. That's why the real deal gets baked on for quite a long time at what most would consider pretty high temperatures, and they still recommend you let it sit a while to cure after that. I know that when applying duracoat and cerakote, the finish can be tricky. You have to get enough on to get a good reliable and hard coat, but if you get too thick of a coat, it takes forever for it to cure right, or it may never, and you'll have it wore off before it does. People I know that do it for a living say that "do it yourself'ers" usually put it on too thick. I know you also have to COMPLETELY degrease it all, and make sure you do NOT touch it again without gloves until it's been coated.
I'm not saying that duracoat is the OP's best solution. What I am saying is that what you are saying is not the norm for people that have it done properly. Your report sounds like some that I've heard from people that got it on too thick, it didn't cure properly, too much water (shouldn't have any), or not completely perfect surface prep. I know that with any finish, once you get it flaking, it'll be gone soon after that. Either way, I don't own any firearms that are duracoated or cerakoted, but some of my very good shooting buddies do, and I get to see and use their firearms with it, all the time. It may not be a "reliable" finish if you did it yourself, but if it's done properly, it's pretty tough, meaning tougher than most other normal finishes found on firearms. I'm not saying it's indestructable or will last forever, just that it's one of the tougher and more durable finishes out there IF it's done properly.
To add to that note. I do have paintball markers that have been duracoated. It was shipped to a professional. The guy media blasted my parts, degreased then applied the duracoat. Then a satin clearcoat over top of it. I really haven't has it chip off, but scratches have shown up. It seems pretty durable considering the markers get banged against trees and such. But it doesn't hold up as well as ano.
What kind of material are 870 receivers made out of?
How much would it cost to have it parkerized? Any local shops in the Montco area that could do the stripping and parkerizing?
Re: Refinishing 870 questions
Best metal prep is...blast the old finish off. A thermal cure finish over park is the best of both worlds. I did my 870 a few years ago...had the old finish removed and I just used Norrell's over top.
I am not a fan of Duracoat...to me it's just very expensive krylon. Duracoat normally requires 3-5 weeks to truly air cure.
With thermal cured finishes like Cerakote, KG Gunkote/Norrell's you bake it in the oven for roughly an hour and the parts are ready to be used. The thermal cured products are much more durable compared to Duracoat.
