I took the first step into reloading...

I finally got a reloading set up. (well almost) I bought an RCBS Rock Chucker Kit today. I have .308 and 9mm dies, now all I need to do is set up my bench and do a lot of reading and I will be ready to get started. I do have a few questions:

1) How clean does the brass have to be before it can be loaded? I didn't get the tumbler, yet... I will have to wait a few months/weeks to get one.

2) Do I need a dies for each caliber? Will a 30 caliber die work in .308, 30-06, .300 etc and 9mm work for 9x19, .380, 357Sig?

3) I noticed a lot of other kits had digital scales, is this something I should look into for the future? I got the RCBS kit on the advice from quite a few experienced reloaders I have known for years. Will the beam scale be accurate/consistant enough to load match grade ammo?

I am sure there will be other questions in the future but I will wait until I read the manual for the rest.

Check your PM.

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Originally Posted by shooter357

Check your PM.

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Got nothing in my inbox...

It popped as soon as I submitted this post... sorry

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Originally Posted by ReconLdr

I finally got a reloading set up. (well almost) I bought an RCBS Rock Chucker Kit today. I have .308 and 9mm dies, now all I need to do is set up my bench and do a lot of reading and I will be ready to get started. I do have a few questions:

1) How clean does the brass have to be before it can be loaded? I didn't get the tumbler, yet... I will have to wait a few months/weeks to get one.

2) Do I need a dies for each caliber? Will a 30 caliber die work in .308, 30-06, .300 etc and 9mm work for 9x19, .380, 357Sig?

3) I noticed a lot of other kits had digital scales, is this something I should look into for the future? I got the RCBS kit on the advice from quite a few experienced reloaders I have known for years. Will the beam scale be accurate/consistant enough to load match grade ammo?

I am sure there will be other questions in the future but I will wait until I read the manual for the rest.

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1. If the brass is dry wiped then that is sufficiantly clean. The main goal is to remove anything abrasive (eg sand) and major surface dirt to save your dies from scratches. I've reloaded for over 40 years before I got a tumbler without problem but with the tumbler you get that nice shiny :cool: ammo. Would strongly recommend that you get one.

2. Except in some rare circumstances, you need a die set specific to each cartridge, especially for necked and rimless cartridges. The dies are similar if function to a chamber in that they bring the case back to original specs. You couldn't fire a 30-06 in a 308 - same for the dies (especially the resizing die). For straight wall ammo that you load a lot, strongly consider carbide dies - worth the extra price.

3. Nothing wrong with beam scales for consistancy. I've used one for almost 50 years. Be advised however that they do have some inaccuracies especially near the maximum weights of the individual beam segment but nothing disconcerting. Again if you set it the same each time it will give consistant charges. Not to discourage digital scales, they serve admirably also. Make sure your scale is level.

From experience one suggestion - make sure you get you loading data from at least two separate sources. From experience I had a load I got from an old Lyman manual that I used for decades in a 30 Carbine. Once I blew the locking lug on the bolt and just attributed it to metal fatigue, etc. Then I got a new reloading manual and discovered that my original load was 16% overMAX :eek: . Now I double reference all loads - either two manuals or a manual and an Internet source.

Also if you doing necked match ammo you should get a neck sizing die in addition to a full length unless you using a semi-auto. As long as the ammo is used in the same gun, neck sizing gives better performance and longer life. In essence, a case is sorta 'fire formed' to the chamber. If you full length resize then you loose this tighter tolerance. For bolt action guns you can see some precision improvement.

Happy (and safe) reloading. You'll soon find out it will take a life unto itself. There's no greater pleasure in getting superior performance when you 'rolled' you own.

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Originally Posted by tl_3237

You'll soon find out it will take a life unto itself. There's no greater pleasure in getting superior performance when you 'rolled' you own.

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Truer words have never been spoken.

Welcome to the dark side. What has been said is true. That part about it taking on a life of it's own, real true. What starts as "I'll never need more than a few hundred rounds of brass" becomes "I only have 5,000 rounds of brass, I need MORE".

Be safe and enjoy.

You have become part of the lifestyle whos first task when getting to the range is not to set a target or rest, but to check the ground and trashcans for brass to reload. Welcome to the addiction.

Welcome to the art and science of hand loading. Reloading is replacing primer, powder and bullet back into a case. Hand loading is the art and science of producing a better product that can give you better accuracy than many factory loads. For a shooter it is the matching of powder, bullet, and tuned case to provide you with a product that will make you smile.

All that said the difference from replaceing components into a fired case to a tuned load for your weapon could be as little as 1/2 inch better group at 100 yards for hours more work. It depends on how much you want to put into the craft to what you expect out of it.

Record your reloads in a book. There are many examples of a load record on the net. You need to do some research (this is the science part) to read what others have done. Safety is the key. If you are not safe you can hurt yourself or others.

I also like that the ammo store is in the basement when I need it.

Before I bought a tumbler I washed my rifle and dirty range brass (you will now be picking up brass from the mud and many pistol shooters never wash brass) in stright white vineger bought by the gallon from a food store. Place the dirty cases in a plastic container (with a lid) and fill up the container to cover the brass well and let sit for a couple hours to over night. Drain off the vinegar and use a couple times for later cleanings, Rinse the brass with water. I use old 50 round plastic ammo box inserts (that hold loaded ammo) to let the cleaned cases drain(open end down) in a warm place (in the sun or on top of my water heater) in a pie pan or cookie sheet to not make a mess (keeps wife off your back). There are other better (but not cheaper and easier to find) acid solutions to clean brass.

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Originally Posted by ReconLdr

I finally got a reloading set up. (well almost) I bought an RCBS Rock Chucker Kit today. I have .308 and 9mm dies, now all I need to do is set up my bench and do a lot of reading and I will be ready to get started. I do have a few questions:

1) How clean does the brass have to be before it can be loaded? I didn't get the tumbler, yet... I will have to wait a few months/weeks to get one.

2) Do I need a dies for each caliber? Will a 30 caliber die work in .308, 30-06, .300 etc and 9mm work for 9x19, .380, 357Sig?

3) I noticed a lot of other kits had digital scales, is this something I should look into for the future? I got the RCBS kit on the advice from quite a few experienced reloaders I have known for years. Will the beam scale be accurate/consistant enough to load match grade ammo?

I am sure there will be other questions in the future but I will wait until I read the manual for the rest.

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Congratulations on getting started!!! I'll second the motion for a neck-size only die for precision rifle - especially for .308 out of your 700. Also, carbide dies for straight-walled pistol cartridges. The carbide dies make it possible not to use lube (on straight-walled cartridges only) when resizing and they're so much smoother.