Originally Posted by
Gunowner99
Thank you all for your help. Of course unfortunately for you, I have more questions and will try to ask them in a logical order by each stage to get it “right” in my mind. Hopefully this does not turn into a novel ha ha!
I am loading for my multiple AR’s. The brass will not be specific and will have to chamber in any of them. As long as you full-length resize and keep the case lemgth trimmed to within SAAMI specs you will be fine. You will note that some 223 brass (eg Federal) is shorter than the trim-to length . . . it's fine. I have reloading gear for 9mm and associated componentry like scales and safety gear and the like. I use Lyman 49 as a base and go from there. I am trying to stick with Lee as I am the most familiar with that. Lee dies will work fine - I still use them. I use a Lee Classic Loader Turret press.
First step is to clean; I think I have that down with my vibratory shaker and walnut shells and nu-finish and dryer sheets ha ha! All good. Same here, except I tumble outdoors and don't bother with any additive or dryer sheets. I plan to leave the primers in when I clean. Cases need to be trimmed (if necessary) AFTER re-sizing. Cases need to be lubed to be resized. Soooo . . . some folks give a light tumble, then lube/resize/decap, then finish case prep/trim, then clean with primer pocket now empty. If you use a lube that does not have to be removed, cleaning, lube, resize, case prep, then reload works too. For starters I will sort by head stamp and reload as such to keep it organized and consistent. This is good practice because cases have different internal volumes, and are more likely to match others with the same headstamp than any others. Cartridges with matching cases are more likely to shoot similarly :)
Then I know that I need to lube. Spray the stuff on and shake in a bin and let dry. Clear plastic bag works better because lube gets on the bag walls, and the bag walls caress the cases :) Anyone with a good recipe? Not me - I use OneShot for pistol . . . not totally necessary but makes reloading on a progressive soooooo much easier . . . and a wax like Imperial for rifle. Do I need to worry about the insides or no? Just do it with a few cases lol. Be prepared to need more lube for the neck . . . it all depends on what lube you use and how you applied it. Some things really need to be experienced to determine whether or not you need to do something else lol.
Next I full length size. Does this step also remove the primer on a Lee die? As long as the decapping pin is IN and properly adjusted . . . the way it comes from the factory eg . . . yes.Also, what about this small base die, do I as a simplistic beginner need to do this? NO. Do not go there until/unless you actually have issues suggesting the solution is a small base die.
Then trim time. Check length first and then trim. RESIZE first then . . . etc So, there are powered trimmers, some that fits in a drill chuck, manual operations. I need something that is fairly inexpensive and I am thinking low volume to start like a 100 pieces at a time? What’s my best option? The drill chuck device? Start there. It will work, it will produce ammo. Personal preference, hand strength (I'm old and arthritic so I use other approaches now), etc will guide you.
I need to chamfer and debur now. Yes, after trimming. Trimming often leaves a little "shred" on the edges. Then swage if a military crimp. Swage or ream. This only needs to be done once. Is my hand held thing suitable for this operation or will I blister myself? Just do it. We can't tell how you will react. You will get some ammo, then you can determine what needs to be done differently to suit YOU. Maybe one of those case prep express things? I could swage on press but then I have to pull out a die and then put back in so I am concerned I will mess up my settings so to say. Ideas? Lee Turrets are cheap. If you choose to swage on-press, get an extra turret for it.Then I should use a case guage or is that before I trim? Use your calipers to start with. Don’t laugh please. I assume before and after trim operation? Yes, you need to determine whether cases MUST be trimmed to be below SAAMI max length . . . later in life you will decide whether you want to trim all cases in a batch to the same length for consistency . . . but there's NO need to worry about that now. Just measure before, and at least samples after. Using a Lee Case Gauge and cutter produces consistent trim lenghts . . . until the case gauge wears down a bit from rubbing against the mandrel. But that takes a while lol.
Then loading time. My plan is Lee dies, so which set do I need? Since you are using these in a semi-auto, you need to full length resize all the time for consistent feeding. So you do not need a neck-sizing die right now. That die is used in lieu of full-length resizing for bolt action guns; it is your call whether you purchase it now as part of a set, or buy a different set. The FCD is valuable - don't let anyone talk you out of that die. If you choose to crimp, it can deal with slightly different case lengths, and simplifies bullet seating adjustments. The Ultimate? I will buy another turret, another Pro Disc Auto Measure, riser and double disc kit, do I need another safety prime or is that a simple change from my 9mm set-up to my 223 and not worth the extra money? There are no PRIMER changes made to the press going from 9mm to 223 . . . both use SMALL primers . . . pistol for 9mm and rifle for 223.
Prime, powder, seat crimp. All that with the Lee die set? I am a little confused because when I watch the Lee video it is full length sizing, decapping and priming all in position 1. Am I looking at this wrong? No, it's all done in that one die, the re-priming when the ram comes down.
What am I forgetting? Of course measure charges frequently for safety and because I am a beginner, measure OAL, is there a gage for that or do I use my calipers? CALIPERS.
Again, thanks for all of the help and sorry for the stupid questions I ask at times, I just want to understand and be safe.