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| Optics Scopes, Lasers, Holograms and anything else you can use to make sure you hit your target. |
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If your going with a pretty much "stock" Mauser, with all the military wood, etc., your gonna be kind of limited to your mounts, unless you first get your bolt handle re-done.
The handle will not clear a low mounted scope (and you'll want one if you stay with military wood due to the height of the comb) even if you have the bent handle already. I don't care for the high rings, as I prefer to tuck my face onto the stock. I prefer Leopold mounts and rings, they just look nicer to me, and are sturdier,but Weaver style are fine. One piece are ok also, but may get in the way if you have big hands and fingers, but the one piece also stiffens the receiver a tad too. You should get a smith to install the mounts, unless you have your own Bridgeport machine, and barrel/receiver jig. He will also most likely bore sight the scope for you, which will help you "put you on paper" to begin with. If your just shooting a surplus rifle, and surplus ammo, you don't need a $800 scope. Just find a decent fixed 4 power, by Simmons or Tasco. They are inexspensive, and do the job, for a surplus rifle and surplus ammo. They are inexspensive enough that, if you find you really enjoy scope shooting, and your rifle really shoots well, your not out much to replace it with a better model or make. Keep the bell small also, don't buy a 50MM bell if your going with low rings, it won't work and the bell will touch the barrel. A 40MM bell will possibly even be too big. A fixed 4 power with a 32MM bell would do you fine as a starter scope, or even a 3-9X32MM variable. Your smith can recommend the bell size. You would probably spend enough cash getting the scope mounts, and bolt handle redone already. NOTHING works better than a well installed set of scope mounts, so, spend the money and get it done right. Don't waste your money on those "hacksaw off, screw on" bolt handle kits either. Have that done professionally also, unless you MIG, or TIG weld (I prefer MIG), but remember also , you will most likely have to notch your stock to get the bolt handle to clear the wood and "lock". No big project with some patience and a rat tail file and sand paper to finish it with. I hope this helps out some. Good luck, and safe shooting. |
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I did a quick look up in my Brownell's book (1-800-741-0015) and found some prices for you to get you in the ball park for materials cost.
One piece base, or two-piece base set ,Leopold, either, $27.00. Leopold rings,low or medium $36.00, high $49.50 Weaver bases, one or two piece, as low as $3.49 and as high as $18.49. I prefer the Leopold, but use Weaver mounts also. Either work great. A lot of scopes even come with the Weaver rings. I see a lot of Tasco and Simmons brand scopes advertised as low as $30.00. They are generally good quality, and for a starter, probably a good way to go. Smiths are a little tricky with pricing. The smith close to me here in Alabama charges $35.00 to do the bolt handle, if you finish the metal work (which is a steal)and he uses Brownell weld on handles which is MIG welded and then finished. If you have that done, request a Lenard Brownell custom bolt knob. They have great lines and is set right where it belongs. Scope ring mounts are probably done for under $50.00, but it is worth the cash to get it done right, A quack can ruin a good rifle reciever real quick. I hope this helps you out some. |
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hello, unless it's a similarly marked scope and rings, the answer should be "none". last time I saw original 98k rings they were $500+ from Sarco. a repro period-correct scope would be at least $400. if your rifle is an authentic, rune marked, documented SS rifle, you don't want to do drilling and tapping. please use a $300 mitchell mauser for that. i'd hate to see you lose the historical value of that gun.
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