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| Gunsmithing If you're the kind of person who likes to do things yourself, this is the place for you. |
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What kind of locktite won't vibrate out no matter what, won't need a blowtorch or solvent to break when the time comes, and won't cost more than $0.05?
![]() I'm putting an ambi selector in a very heavy use AR and don't want it to come apart. Unless I say so. Thanks! |
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I use Loctite 246. It holds tight under repeated uses, and doesn't require a blowtorch/sledge when the time comes to get the screw out. If you NEVER want the screw to come out, try 272. Takes a lot of effort to remove a screw if you use that.
Just make sure you use it according to the directions. Some of them won't cure well if there is oil on either of the threads. |
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Quote:
...and this ^^^^
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To Meleanie: We love you, we miss you and most of all we thank you. Thank you for being you. A strong woman who stood up for what she believed in and in the process brought so many of us together even closer. We will use what we learned from you in continuing to contribute to the cause. Farewell my friend. http://forum.pafoa.org/news-123/7491...d-tonight.html |
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Thanks guys!
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Remember Remember, Our 5th of November
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Read the data sheets as some Loctites are OK on regular steel but are not good on stainless (like 271 and 242, good on steel, but never get near full cure strength on stainless) At the moment I cannot recall the stainless Loctite, but seek and ye shall find.
At work we assemble our own designed medical equipment (at the heart of our machine is a 4800 rpm centrifuge) with Loctite 242 (blue) applied to degreased fasteners and threaded holes, shake well, apply a drop to the screw threads, then screw it in. For certain situtations we apply Loctite 425 after assembly (the term is "post applied") Both are medium strength, meaning they can be disassembled with hand tools w/o heat gun or solvents. The red Loctite 271 is "permanent"; a PITA to disassemble. |
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