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| Gunsmithing If you're the kind of person who likes to do things yourself, this is the place for you. |
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Since the FIE is worth about nothing, I wont give you the refinishing is harmful to value speech.. lol
There are paint thinners and strippers out there. You can also bead/sand blast off any old paint. If there is bluing under the paint, there are strippers for that as well. Best results will require you to completely disassemble the gun. Then polish the metal with a buffer and compound. After you clean it completely, and I mean completely with no oil residue or whatever on it - you will need to decide whether to hot blue it or cold blue it. Cold bluing is a shallow surface treatment that provides virtually no rust protection, hot bluing is a couple atoms or microns deeper and provide a bit better protection. You can also opt for a spray on paint-like finish(Dura-Coat, etc) that is more durable than rattle can spray paint, and will provide some scratch and rust resistance. Cold and hot bluing have different procedures, cold being the easier and cheaper route. Just do a Google/Yahoo search on "How to blue a gun", or any variation of that query.
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Farewell, SFN. Rest in peace. :( |
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thanks for the info. hot bluing is definetly out of the question. im probly going to look into a cold blue or possibly a duracoat.
i did see a guy at the sar show in york selling some type of cold blue. i wish i would have gotten it. he was working on a barrel and took heavy steel wool to it and there was no scratch marks at all..........amazing stuff. cant remember the wesite tho.
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Rust blue is attractive and durable. More work than hot blue or paint, but great results. Here's a good solution that comes with instructions:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9...ICAN_RUST_BLUE There are also instructions and homemade solution formulas available on the web with a little searching. The quality of your results will mirror the quality of your metal preparation. Don't freak out when you see the rust for the first time. |
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Soda blast will take off the old finish without munging up the metal.
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"...a REPUBLIC, if you can keep it." |
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If you would like it parkerized I recomend pa patriot he does excellent work
Gunfixer199 |
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If you get the Birchwood Casey Bluing Kit it gives you complete instructions on how to do it. The same with the products from Brownells (plus if you go to Brownells from here I believe you get a 10% discount).
The biggest thing is to insure that what you are going to blue is completely devoid of any oils. If you have stripped the frame completely, you can suspend it using a wire into a container of acetone. When you take it out DO NOT handle it with your fingers (unless encased in clean rubber gloves) as your fingers could transmit oil to the metal. With the right materials and taking your time, you can get a pretty good looking blue job.
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Ron USAF Ret E-8 NRA Endowment Member |
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The Birchwood Casey kit does a pretty good job. I've become a big fan of the stock refinishing products, but the bluing materials are easy to use if you follow the instructions.
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"Mongo's not exactly a WHO........he's more of a WHAT." |
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Aren't those frames aluminum like the High Standard Double Nines?
That's why they were painted was it not? I'd be careful with sandblasting, rust blueing ect... I think aircraft stripper and a rattle can of engine enamel from the local auto parts may be in order. Maybe I'm thinking of another gun, if so, ignore me like the ex does.
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Quote:
hmmmmm...
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Farewell, SFN. Rest in peace. :( |
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