Blueing or Parkerizing? Which one should i choose...

[Agent Ronin]

So i'm working on restoring a Enfield No.4 and the finish was not the best so I stripped the old blueing off. Well i thought about blueing the whole rifle, but i would rather have the durability of the Manganese Phosphate parkerizing.

But for a Do-It-Yourself aspect, how hard is it to parkerize using those solutions such as the Lauer solution?

[TonyF]

Originally Posted by Agent Ronin

So i'm working on restoring a Enfield No.4 and the finish was not the best so I stripped the old blueing off. Well i thought about blueing the whole rifle, but i would rather have the durability of the Manganese Phosphate parkerizing.

I love a parkerized finish. It's one of the most underated in terms of price vs. peformance.

But for a Do-It-Yourself aspect, how hard is it to parkerize using those solutions such as the Lauer solution?

Can't help you with this one as I've never done it.

[762xIan]

If you can dye an Easter Egg you can parkerize metal.

I just did my #4...in the Enfield restoration thread in gun pictures area.

I use Brownells solution myself....note: park will NOT stick to stainless, brass or other white or non-ferrous metals!

Park solution is acidic, so goggles and rubber gloves are a must. I have spilled some on clothes, and while it did not make a hole like battery acid will, you do NOT want to get this stuff in a cut or scratch!

My method in a nutshell.

1. Degrease all metal, no oil at all! An oil spot or stain will ruin or spot up a park job.

2. Sandblast all parts..I only blast exposed pieces (head of bolt, not the threads...etc.) I use fine sand or aluminum oxide.

3. Be ready to park...steel in this stage will start to "flash rust" especially in the summer when it is humid.

4. Parkerizing requires heating of solution to 180F, and a tank or stainless pot (for small parts) to completely submerge parts. I have seen some guys use PVC pipe for parking...heating solution in a large pot and pouring it in.

5. I use 2 tanks..or 2 pots...one with boiling water one with park solution. I dip parts to preheat and further remove any oil...then go straight to the park tank.

6. Drop parts in solution.....fizzing begins!....lasts about 10 minutes...tongs or suspend a barreled action with wire.

7. After the fizzing stops, I remove from the tank and go back to the boiling water solution for a hot rinse.

8. Now you have hot parked parts...I lay everything out on oily rags...and coat and soak all new park with WD-40.

9. Clean up, you are done, park solution can be used over and over again, I have an old 5 gallon chemical drum I keep mine in.

Hope this helps out.

[Agent Ronin]

Thanks for the imput, i think i'll go with parkerizing the Enfield. However, given the fact i live in a townhome and lack the equipment to parkerize I think i'll call around the local gunsmiths and see what they'll charge me

[arrrrgh15]

If you find someone, could you please let me know.

I'm building an "M16A1" clone and have some old surplus small parts that were rusted and need re-done. If all else fails i'll just buy the stuff and do it myself.

[VeryPrivate]

For restoration, I would blue to match the original finish. If you plan to use the rifle, especially in the field, then parkerizing. Might even consider Dura-coat or Gun-Kote finishes.